Stage 19 started in the town of Bourgoin-Jallieu strategically located in the Rhone Alps between Lyon and the River Rhone. The 25,000 people that call Bourgoin home are known as Berjalliens (m) or Berjalliennes (f). Dating back to the Roman Empire it was originally named “Bergusia”. After two centuries of fighting between the Dauphine and the Savoie regions, in 1923 Bourgoin was incorporated into the province of Dauphine. In 1349 Dauphine was added into the Kingdom of France. On the Place de Chateau the Bourgoin Chateau sits and overlooks the town. In 1379 the Delphinal council purchased the building in the midst of the Hundred Years War. Before King Louis XI became King, the Dauphin of France stayed at the Chateau several times between 1446 and 1452 and it was in the Bourgoin chateau that he established the Etats Generaux de Dauphine.
One of Frances most famous crime novel writers was born in Bourgoin-Jallieu, Frederic Dard. Dard most famous work is the series featuring the mythical character San-Antonio. He originally wrote under the pseudonym of San-Antonio, which he picked by chance while looking at a map of the United States when needing an English sounding name for his police superintendent and main hero of his 173 novels. A James Bond like character, Detective Superintendent Antoine San-Antonio is a member of the French secret service and set in the 1950’s and 1960’s. A San-Antonio novel can be found in almost every bookcase in France and is truly a classic. Dard was born in Bourgoin-Jallieu in 1921 at 75, Rue de la Liberation where a plaque today notes his boyhood home. After writing more than 300 novels in total he died in 2000 and is buried in the nearby town of Saint-Chef. His last novel “Napoleon Pommier" was published just three weeks before his death.
Bourgoin-Jallieu has a few local specialties. The Brioche de Bourgoin is a pastry made with wheat, milk, eggs and honey and formed into the shape of a crown and then decorated with sugar and pralines. It was created for a Louis XI’s visit to the town on October 18, 1447. He arrived mounted on a black horse and followed by more than forty horseman and archers and was presented with the crown shaped pastry made in his honor. Another specialty is the liqueur Grand Dauphine, the jewel of the Dauphine region. The base is made of sweet and bitter oranges from the original recipe dating back to 1855. In 1935 Maurice Chavin added cognac to the original recipe to accentuate the flavors. Best served in a large glass with a few ice cubes to bring out the complex flavors.
The small nearby village of Roybon is home to its very own Statue of Liberty that was erected in 1906 in honor of Henri Saint-Romme who was a key figure of the Second Republic in the county of Isere. It was a gift from Auguste Bartholdi himself, who was the creator of the original Statue, to his friend Mathias Saint-Romme. It was later dedicated to his father Henri Saint-Romme. It is a true cast iron copy of the big sister Lady Liberty in the New York harbor, but stands just three meters high and would fit into the hand of its big sister.
Located on the River Isere is the town of Romans-Sur-Isere (the name gives it away a little) Dating back to the year 838 when the Archbishop of Vienne, Barnard built an abbey near the River Isere. The Dauphin, Lord of the Dauphine region annexed the town in 1342. In 1349 it was in Romans-Sur-Isere that a ceremony to incorporate the Dauphine into France was held. The Traite de Romans (Treaty of Romans) was signed in the dwelling of the Dauphin, near the Pont Vieux, the first bridge that was built over the Isere in 1049. In the Presle district, tanners set up business at the end of the 14th century. In 1850 the development of the shoe industry took off and employed more than 5000 of the local residents. Joseph Fenestrier created the first shoe brand in the area, UNIC, although it is no longer made today. After the Second World War, the shoe industry began to flourish again with the help of Charles Jourdan and Robert Clergerie. The region took another big hit with the recession of 1974, today it benefits from its location along the TGV route.
Bourg-de-Peage, the village that owes its name to the nearby bridge over the River Isere. The bridge was built in the Middle Ages by Saint-Barnard de Romans Abbey and dates back to 1033. The canons began collecting a feudal duty called a “peage” (a toll) for every person, goods or animal that crossed the bridge. Over the decades the bridge was damaged by the rising and fast moving river. In the 17th century the tower with the arms of the town of Romans was destroyed and the arches were falling down and were replaced from time to time with a wooden shield. In the 18th century a full rebuilding of the bridge took place and was not completed until the next century. It continued to suffer more damage, in 1814, 1940 and again in 1944 when its second arch was destroyed. Still today the damage remains and can be seen. Bourg-de-Peage began the felt-hat trade in 1810 and continued on until 1929 when it reached its peak. Mossant was the largest employer in the hat trade in the region, hiring more than 1200 workers and making more than 2000 hats a day. Half of these hats were exported to the United States until 1998 when production ended.
Sitting along the banks of the River Rhone is the town of La Voulte-sur-Rhone opposite of Livron-sur-Drome in the county of Drome. La Volute sits in the county of Ardeche just over the river. Ardeche is a mostly rural county and is the only one in France to not have a train station. The Ardeche is a green paradise with the Ardeche Gorges in the south perfect for kayakers and hikers, and the Mont Gerbier des Joncs where the River Loire begins.
Just outside of La Voulte-sur-Rhone sits the AOC wine region, Côtes du Rhône. Given its AOC distinction in 1937 and encompassing over 207,000 acres the Côtes du Rhône produces two-thirds of the wine in the Rhone region. Producing mostly red grapes, with maybe the most well known being Syrah but Grenache and Mourvedre are some of the other reds in the appellation. Rosé and white grapes such as Grenache blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier are also produced in the region. Look for wines with Crus, Côtes du Rhône and Côtes du Rhône Villages on the label all produced in the area. Cultivated on steep slopes from a granite and argili-calicairous soil and shaped by the mistral winds of the Mediterranean. The rainfall and the warmer temperatures and sunny days along with the vegetation and Rhone basin create the amazing, strong wines of the Rhone Valley.
At the gate of the Monts d’Ardèche in the heart of the Ardèche County and in the Valley of the Rhône lies the town of Privas. Sitting amongst the mountains with seven hills, three rivers and seven bridges and built on a rocky spur overlooking the narrow valleys of the Ouveze and the Charalon. Privas was mostly destroyed in the War of Religion during the 16th century. One of the only things to remain is the old tower, Diane de Poitiers tower, named after the douce amie of Henri II, who in 1547 was the suzerain of Privas. Privas was mostly a Protestant town but when the Protestant leader died, his widow Paule de Chambaud took on two suitors, one Catholic and one Protestant. When she decided to remarry she chose the Catholic suitor. It enraged the townspeople who attacked and partially destroyed the castle. Years later King Louis XIII and the Cardinal Richelieu brought an army of over 20,000 men and attacked Privas. The small town of 1,600 people was able to hold the army off for over two weeks but then was attacked and pillaged and burned and most of the inhabitants were massacred.
The finishing town of Aubenas sits on a rock overlooking the Ardeche near the southern edge of the Rhone-Alps region. Dating back to the 5th century and the subject of a conflict between the bishops of Le Puy and Vivier, Ardeche which means “high spot” was a strategic position to fight over. By 1084 the Bishopric of Le Puy won the conflict and the area became the possession of the Baron of Montlaur and governed there until 1441. During that time they built the tower and walls of the castle that dates back to the 12th century. Today the castle currently is the home to the “Hotel de Ville” the town hall.
In 1752 the Royal Factory of Silk Spinning in Aubenas was opened by King Louis XV in Aubenas. Equipped with mills designed by Jacques de Vaucanson who was the inventor of the first automated loom, his gears are still used today in modern machines.
Just like with all the other amazing regions of France, the Rhone-Alps region has some of its very own “produits du terrroir”. Picodon de l'Ardèche is the goat’s cheese with its own AOC made in the area in the mountains of the Rhone Alps on both sides of the River Rhone. A soft to semi-soft molded cheese with a natural rind that is sweet and mild when young and becomes tangy and spicy when fully ripened. During ripening water is rubbed over the surface to assist in aging. Some Artisanal cheese makers soak the cheese in brandy, wine or eau de vie. The Rhone region is the largest producer of apricots in France, the second largest producer of peaches, walnuts, raspberries and cherries. Walnuts have an AOC in the nearby town of Grenoble but can be found in other areas in the region. For Stage 19, I decided on making a wonderful dinner using walnuts and chicken and a classic Gratin Dauphinois
Poulet aux Noix et Creme
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry white wine, such as Viognier
12 cloves garlic, unpeeled
1-1/2 cups walnut halves
¼ cup heavy cream
1. Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, brown the chicken pieces, seasoning them with salt and pepper, until they are golden, about 5 minutes per side.
2. Add the lemon juice, the 2 tablespoons wine, and the garlic cloves to the skillet. Reduce the heat to medium, cover, and cook until the chicken is nearly cooked through, about 15 minutes. Then stir the walnuts into the skillet, cover, and continue cooking for about 8 minutes. Remove the cover from the skillet and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until all the pan juices have cooked down by half, add the cream, walnuts, and garlic are stir together and cook for 1 minute. Add the chicken to the pan and cook for 5 to 8 minutes. Serve the chicken topped with the walnuts and cream sauce immediately.
Gratin Dauphinois a la Julia Child
2 lb baking potatoes
1 or 2 cloves garlic, mashed
2 oz butter
2 cups whole milk
8 oz French Gruyère cheese
1 pint heavy whipping cream
Salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 360ºF. Slice the potatoes into thin slices (1/8 inch thick). Rinse in cold water. Drain and dry in a towel. Put potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with milk. Bring to a boil slowly moderate heat for 5 minutes then low heat for 10 minutes. Stir from time to time.
Rub a baking dish with garlic and butter. Transfer half of the potatoes in the gratin dish. Add half the cheese, double cream and pepper to the layer. Put the second half of the potatoes and cover with the cheese and heavy cream left.
Put the dish in the oven and cook for 1 hour at 360ºF. Gratin Dauphinois is ready when the top is gold and brown.