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Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 17; Tartiflette

Back into France after a short visit to Switzerland and Italy and the 17^th stage will stay in the Rhone-Alpes region all day. Leaving the same town the Tour finished in the day before, Bourg-Saint-Maurice in the Savoie department of the Rhone Alpes region. The Savoie is one of the two departments of the region of Savoy, annexed by France in March 1860 after the Treaty of Turin, the other being the Haute-Savoie which is where the Tour finishes in the town of La Grand-Bornand.  The Savoie region is known for its mountains, cows and cheese.  Beaufort, Savoie Gruyere, Reblochon, Tamie, Tome des Bauges and Tomme de Savoie are just some of the cheese from the region.  The Vin-de-Savoie appellation AOC is region wide, and is mostly white wines and includes Jacquere, Roussette, Malvoisie and Mondeuse Blanche as well as Chardonnay and Aligote. Gamay, Mondeuse and Pinot Noir are the red and rosé wines. The Savoy has three other AOC’s as well; Roussette de Savoie, a separate appellation making entirely the white wine Roussette in one of the four villages, Frangy, Marestel, Monteminod or Monthoux. Crépy; is for the vineyards along the south shore of Lake Geneva in the Haute-Savoie, the grape is Chasselas, sometimes called Fendant in Switzerland’s Valais area. Seyssel; the region’s best known appellation, the village is located on the banks of the River Rhone, just north of Lac du Bourget, the largest lake in France. The Seyssel AOC wines are dry, light whites made mostly from Roussette and have a delicate, herbal and floral aroma. Seyssel also produces a sparkling wine under the name Seyssel Mousseux AOC.

The town of Beaufort overlooks the River Doron and the remains of the Chateau du Beaufort which was built on the remains of a Roman estate in the 10^th century. Belonging to the Kings of France and later the House of Savoie until the 16^th century. Purchased in 1837 by Reverend Antoine Martinet it has since changed hands many times but staying under religious organization ownership. Beaufort is also the name of the famous Savoie cheese, made in the valley of Beaufortain, Tarentaise, Maurienne and part of the valley of Arly. Beaufort got its AOC certification in 1968, the raw-cow’s milk cheese belongs in the Gruyere family, it is known as the “Prince of Gruyere cheeses”. It is a hard, pressed cheese with a natural rind that is brined for a day and aged for at least 4 months.

 

Les Saisies and the Saisies mountain pass have a historical past. In the Second World War it was a refuge for the Resistance. On August 1, 1944, 78 B-17’s (the flying fortress) dropped 899 containers of arms intended for the members of the Maquis of Savoie.  The mountains were developed in the 1970’s and was the sight of the biathlon events during the Winter Olympics in 1992 at Albertville. The Espace Diamant ski area has 154km of downhill runs 85 ski lifts. The Col des Saisies has an altitude of 1634 meters and has been a part of the Tour de France nine times, the most recent in 2007.

 

The small village of the Haute-Savoie, Praz-sur-Arly lies just 30km from Chamonix and Mont Blanc. After the Espace Diamant opened in the Les Saisies area, the Praz-sur-Arly became a part of the Espace Val d’Arly in December 2007. It’s also the home of famous skiers Patricia & Claudine Emonet. 

 

Megève is located in the district of Sallanches on a mountain pass that separates the Valleys of Arly and Arbon. The Rothschild family decided to make it a holiday destination in 1910 and to create a French resort to rival the Swiss resort of Saint Moritz. It was a popular destination immediately and is internationally recognized and one of the most beautiful resorts in the world. The ski area is known as the Domaine Evasion Montblanc and is made up of the Megeve, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, Combloux, La Giettaz, Cordon and Saint-Nicolas-de-Veroce with 162km of ski runs and over 450km of ski runs. The greatest gift may be the view of Mont Blanc that it faces and can be seen from all over the area.

 

Sallanches is located at the foot of Mont Blanc, created in the 5^th century as a Christian community and it remained a religious center until the 14^th century. After the Revolution the ecclesiastical presence was reinforced by the Capucins in 1619 and the Ursulines in 1630. In 1840 the town was almost completely destroyed by a fire and its architectural history. King Charles-Albert of Savoie-Carignan devoted an immense amount of funds to the reconstruction. The new town was built around the two rivers and by 1844 the town was complete. In 1965 the completion of the nearby Mont Bland tunnel was opened, the town benefited from the increased traffic.

 

Beginning in the 18^th century the town of Cluses made its name as a watch making center and crafting of metal components. In 1720 Claude-Joseph Balladoud introduced clock making to the Arve Valley and soon family workshops began developing and supplying the leading clock makers of Geneva. The town’s reputation grew and a school of watch making, the Ecole nationale d’horlogerie was founded in Cluses in 1848 and continued until 1989. In 1844 the town was completely destroyed by the same fire that destroyed Sallanches. It was recreated in the Turin-Piedmont style by the same architect that built Sallanches, Francois Justin. Cluses just happens to be the sister city of the town I live in. On a recent trip to the library I picked up some Pierre Herme French pastry books, inside it had a plaque that it was a gift from our sister city Cluses.

 

The Col de la Colombiere pass has an altitude of 1614meters and is one of the most visited mountain passes in the Tour de France and has been a part of the Tour 18 times since 1960. It connects Cluses in the Arve valley to Le Grand-Bornand in the Borne valley and from the top a view of the Faucigny, Les Dents Blanches and Les Avoudrues can be seen.

 

The finishing town of La Grand-Bornand is located on the western slope of the Aravis mountain range near Mont Blanc and le Lac d’Annecy. First developed around an old village it is now made up of three areas; the chinaillon valley, the Bouchet valley and the village of Le Grand-Bornand. The Church of Notre-Dame de l’Assomption was first mentioned in 1146, but in 1569 it was partially destroyed by a fire and in 1661 the bell-tower was rebuilt. In 1877 it was completely rebuilt.  Le Grand-Bornand is the home of Reblochon cheese. First made in the 14^th century for the farmers and their families, and later discovered in the 18^th century by lords and clergyman.  Reblochon gets its name from the word reblocher which literally means “to pinch a cow’s udder again” or “to milk again”.  Reblochon is made with milk from Abondance, Montbeliard and Tarentaise cattle that graze on the slopes of the valley. The semisoft, pressed uncooked cheese is made into large flat wheels that rind is thin and beige to reddish orange and the interior is ivory and soft with a rich and savory flavor of sweet and nutty flavors. Reblochon de Savoie AOC was awarded in 1958. Reblochon is made with unpasteurized milk and aged for up to 7 or 8 weeks so it cannot be imported into the US at this time.

 

Since we are still in the Haute-Savoie and the French Alpes, it is more potatoes and more cheese. The classic recipe Tartiflette is meant to be made with Reblochon cheese, but since the US FDA has some stupid rules, we need to substitute it. I used Gruyere instead…

 

2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced

1 large onion, chopped

2 tablespoon butter

1 tablespoon water

2 cups cream

1 teaspoon thyme

½ cup white wine

16 ounces Gruyere cheese, grated

 

In a large saucepan add the sliced potatoes and cover with cream. If it doesn’t cover it completely, don’t worry. Cook over medium heat for 15 minutes; watch carefully, the cream likes to bubble over.

 

In a separate sauté pan melt butter and add chopped onions and cook over medium low heat for 15 to 20 minutes until lightly caramelized. Add bacon and continue to cook until bacon is lightly browned. Add thyme and continue to cook for one minute.

 

In a baking dish, add half of the potatoes, layer with half of bacon and onions and repeat two more times. Top with grated Gruyere or Reblochon if you are lucky enough to find it and top with cream and wine.

Bake in a 350 degree F oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until the cheese is golden brown.

Tour de French Cuisine; Stage 16, Risotto Mantecato alla Fontina

Stage 16 turns into a Tour of France’s neighbors with a start in Switzerland, over the Col du Grand-Saint-Bernard, a short visit into Italy and then back onto French soil to Bourg-Saint-Maurice. This is the stage I was really looking forward to for the race and for the scenery. My grandparents traveled over the Grand-Saint-Bernard pass in 1977 after visiting family at the Chateau, I always heard that they had breakfast in Switzerland, lunch in Italy and dinner in France. It is still what comes to mind when I hear Grand-Saint-Bernard, it remarkably looks unchanged since they went in the seventy’s to today. But we have other places to travel through before we get to the Bernard’s.

 

The starting town of Martigny is in the Valais region of Switzerland sits in the crossroads between the Rhone and the Drance and the main thoroughfare from the Grand-Saint-Bernard pass. Dating back to 41AD it is the oldest town in the Valais and this is evident in some of the Roman stone ruins still seen today. The Chateau de la Batiaz sits on a rocky outcrop with thick walls and circular keep that dates back to the 13^th century. Destroyed by fire in 1518, it was never restored, but still sits above the valley and looks over the Grand-Saint-Bernard pass. The oldest structure in the town is the Amphitheatre Romain. Dating back to the 2^nd century, the ruins were excavated and restored in 1978. Seating 5000 people, the amphitheater holds concerts and cow fights, the Combats de Reines are fights between cows for dominance in the herd.  Martigny is also home to the St Bernard dog Museum in the Arsenal building near the Amphitheatre Romain. Dedicated to the Grand St. Bernard hospice, pass and the legend of the big adorable dog.

 

The town of Orsieres is just 14km from the start of the stage and sits in the largest parish with two large valleys, the Val Ferret and the Val d’Entremont. The Val Ferett is popular in the summer with hikers because of its location on a route to Mont Blanc. La Fouly, a small ski resort located on Mont Dolent is a popular winter resort. The gothic bell-tower and modern church with arched windows and gargoyles are just some of the architecture to see in Orsieres.

 

The Grand-Saint-Bernard pass is the oldest Alpine pass in use today. Dating back to 800 BC, the Bronze Age, it has been used by the Gaulish Army, Hannibal, Julius Caesar, Emperor Augustus and Napoleon, and that is just to name a few. The pass and the Route du Grand-St-Bernard sits on the edge of the Swiss and Italian border at a height of 8100 feet. In 1049 the Hospice was founded by Bernard of Menton for those that had been injured by bandits or those trying to survive the mountain. In 1923 Pope Pius XI named Bernard the patron saint of the Alps and a large statue of him can be seen on the Italian side of the Col. What might be the most noticeable namesake of the Grand St Bernard is the dog that was born and bred by the monks. Thought to be a cross between a mastiff, Great Dane and/or a Newfoundland, they were specifically bred for the mountains and to aid in rescue. The most famous St Bernard was named Berry having lived from 1800 to 1814 and saved over 40 lives. Although against popular belief, Berry and many other St Bernards do not actually carry around small casks of brandy. In the area St Bernards are still very popular today and can be found all over Switzerland.  The Cold du Grand-Saint-Bernard has not been a part of the Tour de France route since 1966 so it will be a great chance to see it in all its glory.

 

Now that the Tour has reached the top of the Grand-Saint-Bernard it is onto Italy, specifically into the Province of Aosta. Sitting in the northern most corner of Italy, bordering Switzerland to the north and France to the east the mostly alpine valley is home to Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, the Mont Rose and the Gran Paradiso. Dating back to the Roman Empire, it reached its peak in the Middle Ages as a stopping point between France and Switzerland. The landscape is dotted with castles and churches dating back to the 12^th century. Castello de Fenis was built in 1242 and was home to the Viscounts of Aosta, the Challanot family.  Today it is owned by the Regional Council which has now turned it into a museum.

 

Located on a hillside in the Aosta Basin sits the Chateau Royal de Sarre and overlooks the Upper Valley. Originally built in the 11^th & 12^th century its framework was rebuilt in the 18^th century in the same spot by Victor Emmanuel II as a hunting lodge. It is said that he actually bought the Sarre castle by mistake. He had his sights on the castle in Aymaville nearby but when the agent that was sent to purchase it got there they were confused by the direction that the river flowed and purchases Chateau Sarre instead.  The Roman Amphitheater located in Sarre was built between 10 and 54 BC, a beautiful sight to see.

 

Arvier is the small village at the mouth of the valley with a medieval center of twisting streets and stone house that lay near a gorge spanned by the Roman bridge. The Cooperative de l’Enfer d’Arvier of 130 growers produce a lightly oaked red Petit Rouge, said to be the areas very best wine.

 

The town of Morgex lies just past La Salle and is home to the highest vineyard in Europe. These vines run up to the snow line of Mont Blanc and 4,000 feet above sea level. With this altitude, the elements could be hard on the vines, but they have discovered a unique way to avoid the snowfall and low temperatures by growing the fruit on a “pergola bass” a low lying arbor that are anchored by stone pillars.

 

The small village of La Thuile is at the former basin of the Ruitor Glacier at 1411 meters. La Thuile sits at the base of the road to the Petite St Bernard pass and the Tarentaise Valley in the Savoie.  Before the Second World War, coal mining was the main form of industry and it still reflected in the old mining structures still visible around town.

 

The Petit-Saint-Bernard pass separates the Tarentaise Valley in France and the Aosta Valley in Italy. Sitting at 2188 meters, it is the lowest pass of the North Alpine Arc. It was the Petite-Saint-Bernard pass that Saint Bernard of Menthon found the first hospice in the year 1000. During World War II fierce fighting caused immense damage to the hospice, still visible in the photos my grandfather took almost 40 years later in 1983. It was finally restored in 1998 by the local community and now is a stop for tourist information.  

 

The finishing town of Bourg-Saint-Maurice sits in the Haute Tarentaise region in the heart of the French Alps. Perfectly located as a base for winter outdoor enthusiast it is part of the Paradiski ski area, although there is no skiing in Bourg-Saint-Maurice. The Arc en Ciel railroad can take skiers and in the summer hikers to the higher peeks. The Chapelle de Vulmix located in Bourg is a 15^th century church restored in the 17^th century. Inside the 15^th century frescoes depicting the life of St Grat, who is the protector of crops.

 

Since the Tour slid into Italy for a short bit on stage 16, it was time to pay our respects and make something from the Val d’Aosta region. The Risotto Mantecato alla Fontina is a typical feast-day dish in the Val d’Aosta. Mantecato means creamy in Italian and the addition of the Fontina cheese is specific to the Valle d’Aosta. Fontina is made with cow’s milk in the Italian Alps for over 700 years. Governed by the DOC (just like the French AOC) regulations require that the milk comes from Pezzata Rossa Valdostana cows, also known as Aosta Red Spotted cows. Although made year round, the cheese made in the summer months is better, since the cows spend their days grazing on the mountain slopes.

 

Risotto Mantecato alla Fontina

 

1 ½ cup of Arborio rice, or short grained rice

1 medium chopped onion

2 cups beef broth, simmered

½ cup white wine, warmed

¼ pound fontina cheese, grated

¼ cup unsalted butter

Salt & pepper

Parmesan cheese

Shaved truffles

 

In a medium saucepan, melt butter and sauce onions until translucent. Remove onions with a slotted spoon to reserve the butter. Add the Arborio rice and sauté for 5 minutes, stirring often. Return onion to the saucepan, stir well and add warmed wine and stir for 1 minute. Begin adding broth, about ¼ cup at a time and stir until fully incorporated, continue until all broth is used or al dente. Stir in the cheese and cook for one more minute. Dot the surface with a few pieces of butter, cover and let sit for 3 minutes. Serve with a few shavings of parmesan and some sliced truffles.

 

All of these pictures were my grandfathers and were taken in 1983, here are a few more from the St Bernard passes. So fortunate that my grandfather took a ton of

pictures and labeled every one!

 

 

 

 

 

Statue of Saint Bernard at the Grand-Saint-Bernard pass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My grandmother at a gift shop at the Grand St Bernard pass  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"view from road to Petit St. Bernard Pass into Italy. Italy is over mountain on left"

 

October 3, 1983

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"just below the Petit St Bernard Pass into Italy"

 

October 3, 1983

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Scene from road between Chambery & Chamonix France. Village of Bourg-St-Maurice in distance and Petit St Bernard Pas into Italy in saddle above"

 

October 3, 1983

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Statue of Saint Bernard at the Petit Saint Bernard Pass

Tour de French Cuisine, Stage 15-Classic Swiss Fondue

Only one week to go and I am already beginning to miss the Tour, yes I know it is still going on, but I hate waiting a whole year for it to start again. Sure there are lots of other races and a lot of them are in France. But they aren’t on TV every day and they don’t have special magazine issues all about them. It is bad enough on the two separate rest days, what will I do by next Monday? How about we enjoy the last week and soak in every single second, because the last week is going to be good!

 

So onto stage 15 we go, they will be leaving France and heading into Switzerland and then this week it will be a short stop in Italy and right back into France. As much as I love France, my second favorite may just be Switzerland. Long ago, 1706 to be exact a distant relative, Henri-Gabriel de Mestral updated an old fortress from a cold and uncomfortable place into what it is today, Chateau Vuillerans.  All of the old towers were restored, well except one, that one blocked the view of Mont Blanc and the lady of the house wanted it taken down. My grandparents visited Vullierens many times and I have boxes of pictures of the many buildings on the property, including the winery that still produces wine today. Seven hectares of vineyard that sit below the ramparts and provide a delicious white wine, the Appelation Morges Grand Cru Pinot Blanc is full of character and are pressed and vinified in the cellars of the Chateau. The Chateau has stayed in the family for over three centuries and currently it is my Cousin Robert that lives there and maintains it. In 1950 my grandpa’s cousin Doreen planted the now famous Iris garden that can be found on postcards and in European gardening books. You can even buy some of the Vullierens iris online to plant in your own garden. I could go on for days, but we need to get back to the Tour.

 

The Tour starts in the French town of Pontarlier which is just 9km from Switzerland and in the Franche-Comte region. Sitting as the capital of the Haut-Doubs region and was a pioneering city in the French aviation industry. Pontarlier was once famous for the making of Absinthe, the very high in alcohol aperitif that was later banned in 1915. In 1805, Henri-Louis Pernod, a native of Switzerland, established Pontarlier’s first Absinthe distillery. At the same time the vineyards of France were being destroyed and consumption was down, much to the benefit of the Absinthe distillers. In 1906 the town was overrun by local water holes with 111 for its 7000 citizens and the “Green Fairy” of Absinthe had just about seen its last day. In 1915 Absinthe was prohibited in France and the distilleries had to find other ways to survive. In 1916 the factories began creating the licorice flavored aperitif, Pastis. In 1988 the French government lifted the ban on Absinthe with a few modifications and Pontarlier began producing the “green fairy” elixir once again.

 

When the Tour crosses into Switzerland it will go right through the Canton of Vaud, one of the most populated Cantons of Switzerland. Encompassing the area surrounding Lake Geneva and the vicinity of Yverdon-les-Bains, Vaud is fourth in terms of size of all the Cantons in Switzerland.  Vaud is also home to the International Olympic Committee, the IOC, since 1915. Located in Laussane Switzerland, it became the official Olympic capital in 1994 and home to the Olympic Museum.

 

Just 23km into Switzerland on the shores of Lake Neuchatel lies the spa town of Yverdon-les-Bains.  The town dates back to Neothilic days around 5000 BC. In 1886 the Menhirs-Statues were discovered just outside of Yverdon in Clendy. Dating back to 5000 BC, the Clendy stones were reset into their original positions in 1986.  The Romans were the first to discover the healthy benefits of the local waters of Yverdon and enjoy the local hot springs. The 14,000 year old water rises from the earth and 500m before the ground picks up the healing salubrious properties from within the layers of rock and comes to the surface. The waters have been specifically therapeutic to rheumatism and respiratory ailment sufferers.

 

Dating back to 965 the town of Lucens with its perfect location amongst the rivers, forests and hills is a nature lover’s dream vacation spot. Rebuilt in the 12^th  century Castle Lucens sits on the hill above the town. Owned by the Canton of Vaud until 1801, it was sold to private owners, the most recent being Sir Arthur Conan Doyle’s son, Adrian. He lived there until his death in 1970. It is now owned by the Kohler family and they retain the castle for personal use. In 1965 Adrian Conan Doyle decided to create a museum dedicated to his father and his father’s greatest work, Sherlock Holmes. Originally set up in the castle, it was moved in 2001 to the Maison Rouge Museum just below the Castle Lucens. Many of Sir Doyles treasures, writings and furniture.

 

The medieval town of Romont sits floating atop a round hill with a view of the town and the surrounding valley below. Peter II the Count of Savoy, fortified the town in 1240 and created the castle. Along with the castle the towers and the Collegiate Church all date back to 1240. Today the castle is the home for the Swiss Museum for Stained-Glass and for Glass Arts.

 

Sitting at the base of the Pre-Alps in the Vanils mountain range in the heart of the Moleson Country is the city of Bulle, the capital town in the district of Gruyere. Sitting in a farming region, Bulle has hung onto its roots with local fairs and markets. Dating back to the 10^th centuries the town was under the Bishopric of Lausanne and the Earldom of Gruyere until 1536 when Bern declared war on the Duke of Savoy. Upon invasion of the Canton of Vaud the town refused to be taken over and became a part of Fribourg until 1537 when it swore an oath of loyalty and remained part until 1798. By 1848 it had become the capital of the Gruyere district and remains unchanged to this day. The region became an economic center in the 12^th century and began making cheese and breeding cows. The cow’s milk cheese Vacherin Fribourgeois is made in this area. A semi-soft and all the way to a firm texture depending on the aging cheese is a classic in the Gruyere tradition with its grassy and nutty taste and a smell like a fresh cut field. Depending on the age, the taste & texture varies from smooth and perfect for fondue to acidic with a delicate texture. It melts perfectly and is great for fondue, but can be eaten sliced with a glass of Pinot Noir as well.

 

Gruyeres is a relatively small town with a very big name. There are a few spots in France and Switzerland that their name presides them. Everybody knows the name because of a famous wine or cheese that is what I love about France and Switzerland, there is history and tradition in everything that they do. The Medieval village of Gruyeres sits at the base of the Pre-Alps with picturesque architecture and oozing with charm. The Chateau de Gruyeres was built in 1270 and was home to the Counts of Gruyeres until their bankruptcy of Count Michael in 1554. It was home to the seat of the Fribourg bailiffs from 1555 to 1798 and then fell to the State Prefects until 1848, by 1849 it was sold to the Balland and Bovy families who used the chateau in the summer and restored it to its original glory. In 1938 it was purchased by the State of Fribourg and was established as a museum. Also in town is La Maison du Gruyere, where the AOC cheese is made three times and you can also take a journey into the full process from milk to cheese in videos and pictures and even taste the cheese at different ages.

 

In a true sense of a chalet, the Grand Chalet de Rossiniere located in the village of Rossiniere sits like a majestic diamond on a crown. Built in 1752 for David Henchoz who was a judge, governor and vicar, it has 113 windows and 60 rooms, including 40 fully furnished bedrooms. Originally built as a cheese cellar for storing over 600 rounds of Gruyere, it became a hotel in 1852 and attracted celebrities, Victor Hugo being one of them. In 1997 it was purchased by Balthasar Klossowski de Rola also known as Balthus, a Polish-French modern artist. He lived in the house until his death in 2001. The Chalet is now owned by Balthus’ widow, Countess Setsuko Klossowska de Rola and has many of his works of art in the house. The grand cheese cellar will be converted to house a museum dedicated to his great works.

 

Lying on the east edge of the Rhone Valley and only 6 miles from the French border sits the town of Aigle, Switzerland. Aigle sits between a lake and at the foot of the Swiss Alps. During Roman times the town was on the road to the Grand Saint Bernard pass by way of Vevey to Avenches. The 12^th century Chateau d’Aigle has been locally owned since 1798 and served as a prison until 1972. Today it is home to the Vaud Museum of Vine and Wine and the Maison de la Dime, the International Wine Label museum.

 

The finishing village of Verbier in the southwestern part Switzerland in the canton of Valais is one of the largest ski resorts in the Swiss Alps. The first hotel was opened in 1934 in the small sleepy village and the first ski lift was built in 1947.  In 1960, the ski boom hit and Verbier turned into the bustling resort complete with the European high society. Located in Les Quatre Vallees (the four valleys), a massive ski complex that has more than 100 chair lifts and a 150 person cable car. From the top of its 1468 meters it offers a panoramic view that includes the Bagnes Valley, Grand Combin and Mont –Blanc massifs.

 

We are in Switzerland, so what else should we have? If you guessed Fondue, you are correct.  A classic and traditional Swiss fondue has to include Gruyere and Emmental. Gruyere is the King of Swiss cheese, and Emmental is its very close relative. Emmental is one of the largest cheeses, reaching up to 130kg, it takes 1000 litres of milk to make. The holes in the cheese at first were a huge source of debate; some thought it a waste or lack of cheese. Children named it “mouse cheese” This cows milk cheese has a 45% fat content and a slight taste of hazelnuts.

 

I like to call it Chateau Vuilleran classic Fondue (in homage to my family)

1 loaf of country bread
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 lb. gruyère cheese, grated
1/2 lb. emmental cheese, grated

Pinch of nutmeg
1 tbsp. cornstarch
2 tbsp. kirsch
Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. Cut bread into bite-size pieces. Set aside. Grate cheese and combine in a large bowl. Sprinkle with cornstarch and set aside.

2. Rub interior of a medium stainless-steel pot with garlic clove, then discard garlic. Add white wine and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add gruyère cheese and nutmeg. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until cheese melts (cheese and wine will not yet be blended).

3. Add kirsch and stir into cheese mixture. Continue to stir and simmer until cheese mixture becomes smooth, about 5 minutes, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, adding up to 1/4 cup more wine if fondue is too thick.

4. To serve, transfer to a fondue pot or chafing dish set over a flame. To eat, spear bread pieces with fondue forks and dip in cheese, continuing to stir with forks as you dip.

 

I served it with boiled potatoes, bread, mushrooms, cornichons, and some sliced meats and bratwurst. It was very rich and really good. I use my moms fondue pot she gave me long ago, it is from the late 60's, as you can tell by the great color and plugs in and it is better then any stainless steel one that I have ever tried.

Tour de French Cuisine; Stage 14-Franche-Comte and Morels

Its stage 14 and on this Saturday the Tour leaved the town of Colmar and heads to the Franche-Comté region and just a day before heading into the French and Swiss Alps where it is going to get really exciting.  With a little over a week to go, there are still big things to happen and more amazing things to see, so buckle up and hang on for the last week.

Just a short way out of Colmar is the town of Ensisheim. They have found evidence that the area dates back to the 5^th millennium BC and the town itself can be traced back to 765. But Ensisheim’s made its biggest mark on history on November 7, 1492 when 280 pound comet fell from the sky and sunk more than three feet into a nearby wheat feel. A loud explosion was heard followed by the crash of the meteor and was only witnessed by a local boy that had been in a nearby field. Locals believed that the meteor had supernatural powers and began chipping off pieces as a souvenir until it was stopped by the local officials. But not before 122 pounds had been removed. The remaining meteorite now sits in the Musee de la Regence in Ensisheim.

 

 

The people of Dannemarie are called “Dallerschlacker” which translates to “plate lickers” in Alsatian. Dannemarie sits on the Route de la Carpe Frite (fried carp route) a route that was established by restaurant owners to promote the local specialty.

The town of Delle sits in the Territoire de Belfort province of the Franche-Comte region. Territoire de Belfort was created in 1871 by the Treaty of Frankfurt when Alsace and Lorraine was a part of Germany. At 235 square miles it is one of the smallest departments in France. The town of Delle lies at the intersection of many old Roman roads. Sitting on the banks of the River Allaine and the last French stop on the Belfort to Bern Switzerland train it is an important town on the edge of France.

Only 4 miles from the Swiss border sits the village of Vandoncourt. It is the home of the Peugeot family which traces back to the 15^th century. Before getting into the car industry the forefathers worked in steel forging and textiles but by 1814 they moved to a more profitable venture, the production of saws and springs for machinery and watches. In 1885 they started make the bicycles and by 1889 had moved into cars as well. Today Peugeot is still a thriving company and has grown to include Citroen and Chrysler Europe under its name as well.  

Baume-les-Dames is located in the valley of the River Doubs amongst a lush green landscape and the Maison des Mineraux caves. In 400 the Bishop of Besancon, Saint-Germain lived in the abbey that was built in the 7^th century where a castle once stood. During the 16^th century the town was ravaged by fires and the plague but was fully restored during the Renaissance.

The finish town of Besancon is the capital of the Franche-Comte region and sits on the Doubs River a tributary of the Rhone River. First settled in Gallo-Roman times it became an important stop on the trade routes between Italy, the Rhine and the Alps. During the French Revolution the town became the premier home for the French clock making industry and today it is still the capital of watch making in France. The old town of Besancon meanders along the River Daubs and at one time was completely enclosed within walls. The Grande-Rue is the old Roman highway that crossed Vesontio and now 2000 years later it is still the main road into Besancon. The Hotel d’Emskerque located at No. 44 is a late-16^th century mansion that was the residence of Gaston Jean-Baptiste de France, duc d’Orleans who was the son of Henry IV, lived here for a short time. The Palais Granvelle mansion was built from 1534 to 1542 for Chancellor Nicholas Perrenot de Granvelle. The three story building with five bays overlooks the street with its imposing Renaissance façade and the interior courtyard with porticoes and arches is a sight to behold.

One of the most famous poets and writers ever to come out of France was born in Besancon. Victor Hugo was born at No. 140 on the Grand-Rue on February 26, 1802. The Lumiere brothers, the pioneers of the first motion picture camera were born in Besancon in 1862 & 1864.  

   

 Although the crowning glory of Besancon is the Citadell that is encircles by the Doubs river. During the Roman occupation the temple and the columns were built, but after the French conquest in 1674, Vauban destroyed most of the buildings and made way for the citadel as it stands today. At a height of 387 feet over the River Doub the impressive structure has played many roles over the centuries. From a military cadet academy under Louis XIV to the Nazis occupied stronghold that was used by German soldiers to kill French resistance fighters.

Today the Citadel houses many exhibits and museums. The Chemins de Ronde, the watch path, begins at the Tour de la Reine and wanders through the valley of the Doubs and the Chaudanne and Les Buis Hills with views of Besancon and the Doubs. The Musee Comtois, holds examples of the local crafts and folklore of the Franche-Comte area. In the Cadet’s building trace the history of the citadel in film and keepsakes. The Musee de Besancon, the Natural History museum is filled with examples of local flora and fauna as well as wildlife, stuffed animals, birds and insects. The Musee de la Resistance et de la Deportation, is the museum dedicated to the French resistance and has a extensive collection of photographs, objects, posters and documents on the beginning of Nazism and the Second World War and the Invasion of France.

The finish town of Besancon is located in the Franche-Comte region lies between Switzerland and the Rhone Alps and the Vosges region of Lorraine. Because of that the flavors are a little more rich and cheese is very prevalent in a lot of their dishes. Of all cheeses in the region, one is the king. Comte cheese has the highest production of any of the AOC cheeses in France. With a AOC distinction comes a lot of rules, including the milk can only come from Montbéliarde cows that have grazed on at least one hectare of meadow.  But a true French Comte if you can find it is fantastic. Dense, smooth and hard feel with a bit of a fruity cheese with a very close texture and taste of a Gruyere type cheese. Morel mushrooms are grow in abundance in the region and are seen in regularly in dishes in the region. And this is where my menu would take me tonight.

A little treat of a Franche-Comte morel mushroom roastie. A slice of toast with a mixture of morel mushrooms, dill, cream and Comte atop a slice of bread and toasted. I did alter it a bit when I was at the store and a ½ an ounce of dried morels were $14 and I needed between the roaste and the main course I needed about a pound. So a package of morels and a bunch of brown cremini mushrooms were going to make a nice alteration.

4 slices of a nice wheat bread or French bread

½ pound cremini mushrooms

Package of dried morel mushrooms

1 cup of heavy cream

¾ cup grated Comte

Butter

Salt and pepper

Chives

1.Rehydrate the morel mushrooms by soaking them for half an hour in cold water. Cut them in half lengthways to clean them properly. Drain well.

2.In butter, fry the morels and the finely sliced button mushrooms, with salt, pepper, chives.

3.Grate the Comté.

4.Fry the slices of bread in the butter on both sides, until golden.

5.Add the cream to the mushrooms. Reduce the sauce over a low heat, add the grated Comté, mix well, still over a low heat, until the Comté has melted.

6.Spread this mixture, which must be really creamy, over the bread slices. Place the roasties in the oven, under the grill, until golden.

Serve very hot.

For the main entrée I made Poulet aux Morilles, but used the cremini mushrooms instead of morels. It was a very moist chicken with a morel cream sauce that was not rich or heavy. It tasted great.

1/2 pound mushrooms

One cut up chicken

5 tablespoons butter

Salt & pepper

1 cup dry white wine (or chicken stock)

¾ cup heavy cream or crème fraiche

Juice of ½ lemon

In a heavy pan heat 3 tbsp butter and add chicken pieces, do not crowd the pan, and brown on all sides. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and remove. Add the remaining butter and mushrooms and cook over high heat for 5 minutes. Stir in wine (or broth) and bring to a boil, stiring to dissolve the pan juices. Return chicken to pot, cover and cook over low heat for 30-40 minutes until chicken is tender. Remove chicken and cover to keep warm.  Add the cream to the mushrooms and liquid and simmer for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning; add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Return chicken to the pot and cook for 5 minutes to blend the flavors, Serve hot….Bon Appétit!

 

Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 13 Kougelhopf... and more

Stage 13 starts in Vittel in the Lorraine region in the upper NE corner of France and borders Belgium, Germany and Luxemburg. Lorraine has gone through some identity turmoil over its territory since the 16^th century. Stanislaus I of Poland ruled over Lorraine from 1733 to 1766, until in 1766 France re-organzied the area and Lorraine became French again. After France lost the Franco-Prussian War in 1870, Lorraine fell to Germany and remained there until the end of World War I in 1918 when it was returned to France. In 1940 Lorraine was occupied again during World War II by the Germans until November 1944 when it was finally returned to France by General Patton and his army.

 

The Vosges department of the Lorraine region is the home of three river basins: the Rhine, the Moselle with its tributaries including the Vologne and the Meurthe and the Meuse which joins together with the Vair. The eastern part of the Vosges is covered with mountains and deciduous forests. The highest point of the mountains is located within the Balloons Regional Natural Park where the Tour will pass through on the Col de Schlucht pass.

 

The town of Remiremont sits in a densely forested valley of the River Moselle and was once the site of the chapter of the Ladies from Remiremont. In 620, two disciples if St Columban found two monasteries, one for the men and one for the women and built it atop the hill and named it Saint Mont. The nuns settled in the valley and adopted the rules of Saint Benedict. Over time the Chapter of Saint-Peter of Remiremont became the acceptable place to send daughters of the best noble families of France. Later when the “Noble Ladies of Remiremont” was formed it became a school where young girls would go to receive the best education and could attend without taking any vows.

 

Gérardmer lies in a magnificent natural setting of forested mountains and the lakes, Lac de Gérardmer, Lac de Longemer and the Lac de Retournemer with its waterfalls and clear deep blue waters. The lakes have been a popular attraction since the 16^th century but took until the 19^th century for the banks to be covered with hotels and houses. The town was nicknamed the “Pearl of the Vosges” and the first tourist’s office in France was set up in the area in 1875. But Gérardmer had some darker days yet to come. On June 22, 1940, during World War II, the Germans invaded the town. In November 1944, the Allies advanced and the Germans set fire to over 85% of the town just days before it was liberated. The town was completely rebuilt and today it thrives from its role in the textile industry. Le Jacquard Français, the very famous French tea towels are made in Gérardmer and are known throughout the world. The damask linen is woven and images of France, fleurs & jardin and even food inspired images. The linens are beautiful and the images woven in are subtle and very classy. I am very lucky to have quite a few of these amazing lines and they are only used for very special occasions.

 

Heading up the into the Vosges mountains and the Col de la Schlucht, a pass that rises 1135 meters and links the valley of the River Meurthe with the River Fecht and lies on the Route des Crêtes. It is the most traveled passes in the Vosges mountains and in the winter the local ski resorts enjoy good snow cover and some of the longest ski runs make them a very popular winter spot.

 

Most people have heard of the town of Munster, due to the cheese. There is a big difference between the Munster cheese sold in the US supermarkets with the sweet paprika edge and the Munster AOC cheese made in the Alsace region of France. The Munster of France has been around since the 7^th century when the Benedictine monks of the Munster Valley out of necessity began making the cheese. The milk of the Vosgian cows that graze in the valley and mountains of the region in the summer and from farm raised cows in the winter months. In 1969 Munster fell under AOC protection which brings with it tight controls on how it is made. The neighboring town of Gerardmer also makes an almost identical cheese called Gerome which falls under the same AOC as Munster. Munster is aged for 2 to 3 months in high humidity and regular washings of the rind to develop the reddish external bacteria. Munster can be semisoft when it is young and runny when it has aged to its peak and equal to one of the best cheeses Epoisses. The smell of Munster can be very strong; I have seen it described a few places as “a barnyard aroma” which is a pretty accurate description. I was able to find some French Munster at Whole Foods, it was a Munster Haxaire and it had a very strong “ammonia” smell to it. The aroma increases as it ripens, so I would say it was quite ripe. It would be perfect served with an Alsatian Gewurztraminer, and in Alsace it is often eaten at lunch with fruit or with rye bread or with caraway, cumin, fennel or anise seeds directly onto the cheese. The licorice taste of anise and fennel adds a bigger bite to the cheese.

 

The finish town of Colmar lies in the heart of the Alsatian wine country and the starting point of the Route des Vins. The Route is a 180km road that winds its way from Marlenheim to Thann passing through over 65 towns that produce the mostly white wine of the Alsatian region. Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner, Pinot Blanc, Tokay Pinot Gris, Muscat d’Alsace and Pinot Noir are all the grape varietals that you will find in the area.

 

Colmar is also the birthplace of the Statue of Liberty and Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi who is the sculptor of Statue de la Liberté. It was Frédéric who came up with the image of the Statue, it is said that he based the face on his mother and the body on his mistress. It was Gustav Eiffel that created the inside support structure of the grand Lady Liberty.

If you are in a hurry to get to Paris and you don’t want to wait for the rest of the tour when it arrives on the July 26^th, you can start walking there. The world’s longest walk starts on the place de l’Ancienne-Douane in Colmar and goes through 171 towns and villages and 8 departments and is 234 miles in length.

There are a few flavors and foods that are synonymous with the Alsace-Lorraine region. With its geographic location and history with the neighboring countries it is no surprise that this also plays into the local cuisine. Heavy in meat and especially pork is a nod to its German roots, and the hills and meadows inspire the cheese, fruits and vegetables and the rivers that brings fish to every household plate.

Maybe the most famous dish is the Charcuterie garnie a platter of pickled cabbage, or sauerkraut filled with the local specialties of saucisse de Strasbourg or knockwurst, lewerzurscht, bratwurst and cooked hams.  Because of the many lakes and rivers fish is plentiful in the region. Trout, carp, pike, shad and freshwater crayfish are served cooked with wine and light sauces or cooked with beer and onions like in Carpe a la biere. 

Months ago when I began to research the Tour I came across a book specializing in Alsacian cooking, The Patissier by Hossine Bennara is filled with 12 months of seasonal recipes and conversations in the Alsace region. I decided on the Tomato and Gruyere Salad with Alsatian Vinaigrette and a Salmon with a Sorrel Cream Sauce.

The Alsatian Vinaigrette is a twist to a classic French vinaigrette. I changed the original recipe a bit due to time constraints and ingredient availability.

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon honey

½ tablespoon Dijon mustard

Splash of Worcestershire sauce

Pinch of salt

Pinch of pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil

Whisk vinegar, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper in bowl. Continue whisking and add olive oil in a slow stream until emulsified.

Salade de Tomates or Tomato and Gruyere Salad

6 sliced tomatoes

1 cup Gruyere cheese, shredded

5 Cornichan pickles, diced

Fresh thyme

Fresh parsley

1 tablespoon fresh basil

Arrange sliced tomatoes on a platter. Sprinkle cheese, cornichans, thyme, parsley and basil over the top. Drizzle vinaigrette over the salad and serve

Salmon with Sorrel Cream Sauce

Serves 2

1 lb fresh Salmon

Salt & pepper

¼ cup Lemon juice

Sauce:

1 cup sorrel leaves, chopped (or Arugula can be substituted)

1/3 cup Crème Fraiche (or 1/3 cup sour cream, 2 tablespoon buttermilk)

½ teaspoon herbes de Provence

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon butter

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon pepper

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F

Butter a ceramic baking dish. Salt and Pepper both sides of the salmon. Place in baking dish and pour ¼ cup lemon juice over the salmon. Bake in oven for 20 minutes.

Prepare the sauce, place Sorrel leaves, crème fraice, herbs de Provence, lemon juice, butter, salt and pepper to small pan. Heat gently for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Serve the salmon with some cream and enjoy.

The most popular desert to come out of the Alsace region is the Kougelhopf, a raison and almond cake that is a little more of a bread then a cake. Made in a special pan, similar to a Bundt pan, the brioche yeast bread is originally from Austria but traveled to Alsace at the same time as Marie Antoinette. 

Kugelhopf

1 1/2 teaspoons active dry yeast (less than 1 envelope)

2 tablespoons warm water (105–115°F)

1 cup whole milk

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces and softened

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

3 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 cup raisons

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh orange or lemon zest

About 20 whole blanched almonds (1/2 ounces)

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

 

Stir together yeast and water in a small bowl and let stand until foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.

 

Heat milk with 6 tablespoons butter and granulated sugar over low heat, stirring, until mixture is warm (105 to 115°F), butter is melted, and sugar is dissolved.

Sift together flour and salt into bowl of standing mixer. Make a well in flour and add yeast mixture. Add warm milk in a slow stream, mixing at low speed with paddle attachment. Increase speed to medium and beat in eggs 1 at a time, then beat in raisins and zest. Continue to beat until dough is smooth and elastic, about 5 minutes. (Dough will be very sticky.)

Butter kugelhopf mold with remaining tablespoon butter. Put 1 almond in each depression in bottom of mold (the almonds are only decorative; you can skip them altogether if your mold has no depressions), then scrape spoonfuls of dough evenly into mold (dough will be very elastic). Cover top of mold with oiled plastic wrap and a kitchen towel and let dough rise in a warm place until it fills pan, about 2 hours.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Remove towel from kugelhopf and gently peel off plastic wrap. Bake kugelhopf in middle of oven 15 minutes, then loosely cover mold with foil and continue to bake until golden and a tester inserted in center comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes more. Cool in pan 2 minutes, and then invert cake onto a rack to cool completely, about 1 hour. Dust with confectioners’ sugar.

 

This is best served the same day, I cut the  cooling time in half to just a half hour. The next morning I sliced it and toasted it and served it with a little French butter and it was magnifique!

Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 12 Tonnerre to Vittel; Quiche Lorraine

As the Tour moves around France stage 12 starts in the Burgundy region and then ends in the Lorraine region, but not before passing through the Champagne region. Ooh la la!

 

The starting town of Tonnerre is the main town of the Chablis region and lies on the banks of the Canal de Bourgogne and the Armançon. The pleasant little town is surrounded by vineyards and dominated by the church of St-Pierre and the tower of Notre-Dame. The Eglise St-Pierre stands on a rocky terrace with a view of the town and the neighboring vineyards. All that remains of the original church is the chancel, built in the 14^th century and the square tower in the 15^th century. The rest of the church was rebuilt in 1556 after a fire destroyed the town. One of the only structures to have survived the fire in the 16th century was the Ancien Hopital. The old chapel was erected between 1293 and 1295 by the widow of Charles d’Anjou, king of Naples and Sicily, Margaret of Burgundy has stayed mostly intact. Tonnerre was once the home for over 1000 hectares of vineyards at the end of the 19^th century but by 1970 they had all but disappeared. Today they have regained their place in the world of Chablis and now cover over 150 hectares of the Tonnerre area. In 2006, Bourgogne Tonnerre was accepted as a white wine AOC. It is the second appellation of Burgundy to have obtained this distinction as an entity but the production conditions are much stricter.

 

Just a short way down the road from Tonnerre is the town of Tanley. With its historic Chateau de Tanlay it is one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in all of Burgundy. Built during the 16^th & 17^th century it was the home of the Admiral de Coligny family during the Wars of Religion. In the 17^th century it became the home of the Marquis de Tanlay’s family and has belonged to them ever since. The chateau is known for its tromp-l’oeil and frescoes in the Tour de la Ligue.

 

Les Riceys lies on the border of Burgundy but it’s actually the biggest wine-producing area in the Champagne region. It is the only one to have three AOC labels; Champenois, Coteaux Champenois and Rose des Riceys. It is the Rose wine that is considered to be the best in France. Because of the strict regulations the wine growers are not able to make the wine every year. It is made exclusively from the Pinot Noir grapes grown on the steepest and sunniest slopes of Les Riceys. The town is made up of three hamlets along the banks of the River Laignes, Riceys-Bas, Riceys-Haut and Les Riceys. The 16^th century Eglise St-Pierre-es-Liens in Riceys-Bas has a beautiful carved wood porch. The oldest section dates back to the 13^th. In Riceys-Haut two churches join together to become one by extending the transept of the second church.

 

Essoyes is a very small village located on the banks of the River Ource and at the center of Champagne’s Cote des Bar on the edge of the Champagne and Bourgundy region. The most famous resident of Essoyes was the Impressionist painter Auguste Renoir. In 1865 he purchased a house in the town that was the birthplace of his wife and spent summers there for 25 years. His house and studio can be visited today with collections of his photos, documents and personal belongings are on display and is run by his great granddaughter Sophie Renoir. At the nearby cemetery you can see the graves of Renoir, his wife and children

 

In Colombey-les-deux-Eglises it is hard to miss the large Cross of Lorraine that sits above the village since 1972. In 1934 General Charles de Gaulle purchased a residence in Colombey where he purchased a former brewery and renamed it “La Boisserie” In his memoirs he described the Champagne landscape that he loved “steeped in sadness and melancholy..Former mountains drastically eroded and resigned…quiet, modest villages whose soul and location has not changed for thousands of years…” During the Second World War his home was severely damaged by the Germans, but he returned in May of 1946 after it was repaired and the corner tower and porch were added. The General passed away on November 9, 1970 and is buried in the local cemetery with his wife Yvonne. The large Cross of Lorraine was originally a symbol of Joan of Arc but during World War II it became the symbol of the Free French Forces under General de Gaulle. The 164 foot Cross of Lorraine was erected on a hill above the final resting place of General de Gaulle in 1972 to commemorate his distinguished wartime efforts.                 The Tour has visited Colombey-les-deux-Eglises before, in 1960 the riders briefly stopped to be greeted by the French General who was still President of France at the time.

 

126 kilometers into the stage the Tour passes through the town of Chaumont that dates back to the 10^th century and overlooks the valleys and the River Suize and the River Marne. The town was founded by Geoffroy I of Chaumont and by the 12^th century the town was ceded to the Counts of Champagne. The marriage of Jeanne of Champagne to Phillip the Fair the future King of France allowed the town to be developed during the 13^th & 14^th century. In 1814, during the Napoleonic Wars, the town was occupied by the United Kingdom, Russia, Prussia and Austria, and it was in Chaumot that the Treaty of Chaumot was signed.  The Treaty was to be rejected cease-fire of the Allies of the Sixth Coalition to Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleon was to return all his conquests back to the 1791 Pre-French Revolutionary War bars in exchange for a cease-fire. If he declined, the Allies pledged to continue the war, the following day he rejected the treaty.

 

The finish town of Vittel is a spa lover’s dream and for those looking for some therapeutic cures from the water that flows in this beautiful wooded area. The Vittel waster is used for the treatment of arthritis, gout, allergies, kidney & liver disorders and migraines. (did they say migraines? I think I will move here) Not only do they use the water for treatment but it is also the largest mineral water bottling plants in the world. Nestle Waters Supply bottles the water and has sold hundreds of millions of bottles of Vittel water. Vittel has also been the official water sponsors of the Tour de France for the last few years, oh and don’t bring up the brand Perrier in the town of Vittel. At the Usine d’embouteillage de Vittel you can watch the production of the plastic and glass bottles and the bottling and packaging process where the factory puts out 5.4 million bottles a day.

 

With the Tour ending in the Lorraine region of France what else would we want to have for dinner but Quiche Lorraine. The fact that it was about 94 degrees today made the decision a bit easier as well, standing over a hot stove did not sound very fun. Quiche Lorraine in its most classic state is heavy cream, eggs and bacon, and that’s it. It is a custard based treat that is very smooth and flavorful and paired with a perfect buttery crust it is fantastic. I of course went with Julia Child’s recipe in Mastering the Art of French Cooking and was not sorry. John actually said it might be his favorite thing he has ever eaten. And as I write this the day after, it is pretty darn good the next day reheated for about 30 seconds. I was very excited to use my Flan ring for the crust; it is just a ring without a bottom and is just placed on the baking sheet and then used like any other pan. When it is done you can just pop it up and have perfect straight sides.

 

Pate Brisee is the best pie crust that you can ever make. It is always delicious and so easy to make. And if you are one of those people that “buys” pie crust, just make this one time and see how easy it is, it will only take you 5 minutes.

 

Pate Brisee
2 cups flour
1⁄4 tsp. salt
8 tbsp. cold butter, cut into small pieces
3 tbsp. cold vegetable shortening, cut into
   small pieces
1 egg, lightly beaten

FOR THE FILLING:
6-oz. slab bacon or sliced bacon, diced
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1⁄2 to 2 cups heavy cream
1⁄2 tsp. salt
Freshly grated nutmeg
Freshly ground black pepper

1.For the crust: add the flour and salt to a food processor and pulse once to combine. Add eggs and pulse until just combined, add the cold butter and pulse until it resembles a coarse meal, while continuing to pulse, add the ice water 1 tablespoon at a time through the feeding tube until it is just combined. It will noticeably sound different as it comes together. Scrape the dough out and form into a flat disk and cover in plastic wrap. Place in refrigerator for at least 2 hours or overnight.

2. Preheat oven to 400°. Allow dough to soften slightly at room temperature before rolling out on a lightly floured surface into a 14'' round. Fit dough, without stretching it, into a buttered 10'' bottomless metal flan ring, 1 1⁄2'' deep, set on a parchment paper-lined cookie sheet with no rim. Press overhanging dough down slightly into sides of ring to make the sides of the crust a little thicker and sturdier. Run the rolling pin over the top of the ring to remove any overhanging dough. Using a fork, prick bottom lightly, then make a decorative edge around the rim. Line dough with buttered aluminum foil, and then add pie weights or dried beans. Bake until crust is set and edge just begins to color, about 25 minutes. Remove foil and weights, brush bottom and sides with egg, and continue baking until crust is pale golden, another 2-5 minutes.

3. For the filling: Reduce heat to 375°. Put bacon in a medium pan, cover with cold water, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain. Return bacon to pan and cook over medium heat until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Transfer bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel to drain, then arrange on bottom of crust.

4. Beat eggs, cream, and salt together in a medium bowl and season to taste with nutmeg and pepper. Pour mixture into crust and bake until custard is puffed and golden and just set in the center, 30-35 minutes. Slide quiche off parchment paper onto a serving platter and ring. Serve quiche warm or at room temperature, sliced into wedges.

 

The buttery crust and the dots of butter on the top give it an incredible rich but not heavy taste. This is truly a wonderful dish and perfect for a light dinner, brunch or even sliced as an appetizer.

Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 11; Vatan to Saint-Fargeau. Escargot & Boeuf Bourguignon

The start town of Vatan is getting a first time stage visit from the Tour de France, but has been a part of the Paris-Nice, or Race to the Sun in 2007. The small town of 2000 sits in the Berry province in between Vierzon and Châteauroux of the Indre department as part of the Loire Valley.  The name Vatan actually means “Go Away”, not really a welcoming cry, but the motto of the town is a little better “Vatan…you’ll be back” The Berry green lentil festival and the Circus festival are popular local events.

 

Just outside of Vatan is the small village of Reuilly with a religious history dating back to 638 when King Dagobert gave Reuilly the Royal Abbey of Saint-Denis. It remained a religious seigniory until 1789 and the Revolution. Reuilly at one time belonged to Normandy in 902 and then during the Hundred Years War belonged to England. Reuilly lies above the river Arnon on the borders of the Cher & Indre departments. The local limestone soil vegetation of the appellation results in an herby white wine that is lighter then Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume.

 

Quincy is another small village that is built on its Sauvignon Blanc. The village use to belong to the nearby abbey of Vierzon that is located just 9 miles away. In 1620 the monks from the abbey of Beaumont introduced the Sauvignon Blanc grape to the town. It was the second winemaking area in France to achieve AOC status in 1936. It now has over 200 hectares or 495 acres that produce the white wine similar to Pouilly-Fume.

 

Menetou-Salon is another town devoted to wine and much like its neighbors Reuilly and Quincy its grapes are the cousin to Sancerre. The smaller growing regions and its location being further from the Loire has not given the wines the prestige of its cousins Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre. But the Chateau Monetou-Salon is a crowning glory in the town. Surrounded entirely by vineyards the Gothic Revival style chateau was originally owned by the French Minister of Finance Jacques Coeur but at the end of the 19^th century is became the home of the Prince of Arenberg, whose family still owns it today.

 

Pouilly-sur-Loire continues the wine theme and white wine to be specific. You may have guessed from the last few towns what with a name like Pouilly they must produce Pouilly-Fume wine. They can date the vineyards back to the 5^th century where it was first mentioned by Benedictine monks. With the Loire River running near by the town benefited from the river traffic and the wine became a favorite with Louis XI and all the way to Flanders. In 1937 Pouilly was awarded two appellations, Pouilly-sur-Loire and Puilly Fume. The Pavillion du Milieu de Loire is a local museum that has a permanent exhibit on the River Loire and the world of wine and is worth a visit.

 

The town of Treigny is the only town in the world that has two medieval castles and over 1000 years separate the building of the first and the second one. The Castle of Reilly overlooks the town and is partially hidden by the undergrowth and dates back to the 11^th century. It was first mentioned in 1160 but in the last 50 years it has been a location rich in culture and activity. Organized theater, summer concerts and pottery workshops are located in the castle for anybody to attend.  The second is the fortified castle of Guedelon which was inspired by the architecture of Ratilly. The project began in 1997 and the builders that are working full time on the castle can only use materials that are available nearby, the castle should be completed by 2022.

 

Saint-Sauveur-en-Pauisaye holds a personal attraction to me, it was the birthplace of the much loved French author Colette. She wrote one of the most popular series in French history, the Claudine novels. (give me a break, I never see my name anywhere but in French things). In her novel, Claudine a l’Ecole, she renamed the town to Montigny-en-Fresnois. The other books in the series Claudine a Paris, Claudine en ménage & Claudine s’en va. She may be more recognized for writing the novel Gigi that turned into a movie. The town has a museum dedicated to the author in the 17^th century castle

 

The finishing town of Saint-Fargeau is also a new stage finish for the Tour de France and the smallest town that is hosting a stage this year. The Chateau de Saint-Fargeau has been a part of the town since it was built in 980. It was seized in 1411 by the English in the Hundred Year War and then in 1450 was purchased by Jacque Coeuer where he had it rebuilt in 1453.  In 1652, Anne-Marie Louise d’Orléans, the Grande Mademoiselle first cousin of king Louis XIV, was exiled for five years because of her stance during “la Fronde” (cival war). She settled in the Castle of Saint Fargeau where she hired the architect Le Vau to decorate the interior.  In 1713 the family of Louis-Michel Le Peletier purchased the castle. In January 1793 a vote was taken to decide what they would do with the King Louis XVI, it is said that it came down to a vote of 361 to 360 and the deciding vote was cast by Le Peletier and the King was sentenced to death by guillotine.  The rumor of his vote spread quickly among the Royalist and the day before the king was to die, Louis-Michel Le Peletier was assassinated in a restaurant at the Palais Royal.

 

The Burgundy region may have the most recognizable cuisine, at least items that almost everybody can say they have at least tried one of them. Curnonsky said “there are many gastronomic paradises in France, but there is a paradise of paradises-Burgundy”   Of course the most famous, may be Boeuf a la Bourguignonne which basically a beef stew with bacon, onions and mushrooms slow cooked in red wine. It is a rather inexpensive meal to make and can be made in large quantities and made in advance, as it just gets better and better as it sits. I went to the mother of all French cooking Julia Child for the recipe and altered it a bit to fit the time I needed to make it. I call it:

 

Boeuf Bourguignon jeuner acheminet (fast forward)

 

Adapted from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961)

Time: About 3 hours (normally 5 to 6 hours)

One 6-ounce piece of chunk bacon or 6 or 7 strips of bacon

3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

3 pounds lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes

1 sliced carrot

1 sliced onion

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour

3 cups full-bodied, young red wine (like Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone or Burgundy)

2 1/2 to 3 1/2 cups brown beef stock

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 cloves mashed garlic

1/2 teaspoon thyme

A crumbled bay leaf

18 to 24 small white onions

3 1/2 tablespoons butter

Herb bouquet (4 parsley sprigs, one-half bay leaf, one-quarter teaspoon thyme, tied in cheesecloth)

1 pound quartered fresh mushrooms.

1. Remove bacon rind and cut into lardons (sticks 1/4-inch thick and 1 1/2 inches long). Simmer rind and lardons for 10 minutes in 1 1/2 quarts water. Drain and dry.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

3. Sauté lardons in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a flameproof casserole over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.

4. Dry beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Heat fat in casserole until almost smoking. Add beef, a few pieces at a time, and sauté until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the lardons.

5. In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the excess fat. Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat again and return to oven for 4 minutes (this browns the flour and coves the meat with a light crust). Remove casserole and turn oven down to 375 degrees.

6. Stir in wine and 2 to 3 cups stock, just enough so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind and small onions. Cover casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so that liquid simmers very slowly for 2 hours. Turn up the heat to 415 degrees and continue to cook until the meat is tender and a fork pierces it easily about 45 minutes to an hour more.

7. While the beef is cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Heat 1 1/2 tablespoons butter with one and one-half tablespoons of the oil until bubbling in a skillet. Add mushrooms and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling them so they will brown as evenly as possible8. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining oil and butter over high heat. As soon as you see butter has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add mushrooms. Toss and shake pan for 4 to 5 minutes. As soon as they have begun to brown lightly, remove from heat.

9. When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and lardons to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms on top. Skim fat off sauce in saucepan. Simmer sauce for a minute or 2, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 1/2 cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons stock. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour sauce over meat and vegetables. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in casserole, or arrange stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.

 

Another dish that is synonymous with the Burgundy region is Escargot. In French escargot literally means snail and I know some people may freak out at the thought of eating a snail, but you really must try it. Drenched in butter, garlic and parsley these little tiny morsels are fantastic. I was just a child when I first tried escargot in a small French restaurant near the a town we grew up in and then continued to love it as I was in high school where I would frequently have it at a favorite restaurant.  

Escargot a La Bourguignonne

4 oz butter, at room temperature

1/4 c Finely chopped parsley

1 head of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 shallot, sliced

½ cup white wine

24 Canned French snails

24 Snail shells

1. In a sauté pan, combine the shallots, wine and snails and bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

2. Combine the parsley and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to blend well, add butter and pulse until it is a smooth green paste. Season with salt & pepper.

3.Turn on the broiler and place rack in the middle of the oven

4. Place a snail in each shell and fill the cavity with the seasoned butter. Place on a baking pan and broil until the butter is melted. Serve hot and then slop up all the butter and garlic goodness with slices of baguette.

Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 10 Limoges to Issoudun; French lentils

 

After a rest day on Monday the Tour has now traveled by plane to Limoges located in the Limousin region toward the center of France. Limoges brings to mind one thing with me, tiny boxes and china. It is the white Kaolin clay found in the 18^th century in Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche just outside of Limoges that is used as the base of Limoges china. Limoges porcelain has a recipe of 50% Kaolin clay, 25% feldspar and 25% quartz and gives it the extreme whiteness and translucence and what gave Limoges its high prestige and value it has earned.  Limoges also has a history of making another piece of art, enamels and cloisonnes.  Created by soldering thin pieces of metal to a base to outline a design and normally done on gold which worked better then on copper. Painted enamels are created by painting directly on the enamel that covers a copper plate.  The Musee Municipal de l’Eveche-Musee de l’Email has examples of Limoges enamels dating back to the 12^th century. My grandmother collects Limoges boxes and she has given me a few over the years, since it is perfect for the Tour de France the Eiffel Tour and the Arc de Triumph have a place of prominence in the house.

 

 

Near the Vallee de la Creuse and the Foret de Chabrieres is the town of Gueret.  The count of Lantaire founded a monastery here in the 8^th century, located at the base of the Grandcher hill. Gueret became the capital of the county of La March in 1514 and has been the administrative center ever since. The nearby Foret de Chabrieres has an animal park where you can see wolves as well be there for feeding time at 4pm. I think I would maybe avoid the feeding time, but I am pretty sure that they must have a fence between you and the wolves.

 

 

Just 105 kilometers from the start is the small village of Bonnat. This picturesque village has never been part of the Tour de France since it began in 1903. Bonnat was a part of the 100 year war that began in 1337 with the Church Saint Sylvain being built to help ward off the English. It now stands in the center of town and is a protect monument, all the way down to the furniture inside the building.

 

Passing through the small village of Nohant-Vic near the Indre Valley has a lovely little square with century-old elm trees. Nohant was home to novelist Amandine-Aurore-Lucille Dupin who went by the pseudonym George Sand.  After moving to Paris she began to write for Figaro and then later her first novel, Indiana which was written in 1832.  She continued to write novels and plays later completing 70 novels, and 25 plays and had become an inspiration to many women writers. She died in 1876 and was buried on the grounds of her family home in Nohant and now is a museum that can be visited daily. The Maison de George Sand is the country estate that was built in 1760 and dedicated to the memory of George Sand and the many visitors she had including Chopin, painter Delacroix and Fromentin and many more. The house has remained much unchanged since the 19^th century  including the room on the second floor where she passed away on June 8, 1876.

 

 

The finish town of Issoudun sits in the Indre department of the Centre region of France. Going all the way back to Gaulish times and later, during the Middle Ages Issoudun became the base of many battles. The most famous was between Phillip Augustus and Richard the Lion Heart in 1195. The most visible site in Issoudun is the Tour Blanche, a tower built at the end of the 12^th century by Richard the Lion Heart and located in the middle of the gardens of the town hall. The round 92 foot high tower houses a museum with a guide tour of the vaulted hall and a room devoted to the Hundred Years War and a view over the town and the surrounding country and valleys.  In 1917 the US Air Service built the largest training center in Europe just outside of Issoudun, the 3^rd Aviation Instruction center. At the time of the Armistice in November 11, 1918 it housed student pilots and instructors and over 9,000 ground personnel and thirteen fields and was the largest airbase in the world.  The airbase was closed on June 28, 1919 and today a monument remains on Route 960 to immortalize Issoudun’s part of the First World War

 

Another landmark in Issoudun is the factory for the luxury brand Louis Vuitton that was established in 1854. Louis Vuitton the man was born in 1821 and traveled from his home on the edge of France in Switzerland by foot to Paris. When he arrived in Paris he picked up a job as a Layetier (a trunk-maker) later catching the eye of Napoleon III of France and became the Layetier to his wife Eugenie de Montijo. Louis Vuitton the brand was introduced in 1853 and began with making flat bottom trunks instead of the round trunks that most of them were at the time that made it more difficult to stack. Almost immediately others started to imitate the LV style. Louis Vuitton passed away in 1892 and the company went to his son George. In 1987 Louis Vuitton joined the group Moët et Chandon and Hennessey and has become the largest luxury brand group in the world.

With the Tour traveling through the Loire Valley there is so much to offer in the way of food. The Loire Valley is known as the “garden of France” and with its massive size and stretching from the Atlantic coast to the center of France there is something for ever pallet. One of the best things to come out of the region is the Champignons de Paris, a button mushroom that was first grown for the markets of Paris. When it was discovered that the cliffs along the Loire made for a perfect growing spot they became a specialty of the Loire. A wonderful way to enjoy them is to roast them over a wood fire (or oven) filled with butter, garlic and parsley.

 

The Berry region of the Loire is known for its goat cheese. The log shaped ash covered Ste-Maure de Touraine AOC and the Pouligny-St-Pierre AOC is a narrower pyramid shape and is nicknamed the Eiffel Tower, mottled and blueish outside with a white within are some of the favorites of the region. The cows milk cheeses include Feuille de Dreux is a soft flat cheese with a chestnut leaf on top, and washed rind Port-Salut and Cure Nantais are some of the ones that you can find from the region.

 

What goes better with cheese then wine? The Loire Valley varies in wine from the Muscadet of Nantes near the Atlantic coast to Vouvray just outside of Tours in the central part of the Loire valley. It may be the central vineyards of the Loire that has some of my favorite wines. Home to Sauvignon Blanc which is the perfect match to the Crottin de Chavignal goat’s cheese, Vouvray produces still and sparkling wine from Chenin that are anywhere from dry to very sweet depending on the vintage. Some of the best Sauvignons that come from the central vineyards of the Loire Valley are Sancerre, Pouilly-Fume and Menetou Salon and each have many producers in their specific area.

 

French lentils are known around the world and can easily be found, normally they are in the US supermarkets as a style of lentils, but if you look you can actually find lentils grown in France and sold in the states as well. Lentils are grown in more than one place in France, the Puy de Dome lentils of the Auvergne are some of the most well known but the same lentils are grown in the Berry province of the Loire Valley as well and are known as the Berry Lentils.  Lentils are a very easy item to cook and add to any meal and the flavors are easy to change by just adding other ingredients. The Romans called lentils the “poor man’s meat” it is high in fiber, protein and vitamin B.  Lentils cook up very easily and make a great pairing with fish, chicken and pork.  I make a very easy and standard lentil recipe and you can add your own flavors to it as well.

 

You will need:

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 carrot, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon of herbs de Provence

1 cup of lentils

2 cups of broth

Salt and pepper

 

Chop the onion and cook in some butter over a medium heat until tender and slightly translucent. Add in the carrots and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add in the herb de Provence, sauté a few minutes until fragrant, add in the lentils and the *broth. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and cover for 10 to 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

 

*depending on what you will pair it with, depends on the broth. If I am pairing it with fish I normally use a vegetable stock, but a chicken stock would work as well.

Tour de French Cuisine-Saint-Gaudens to Tarbes

The start town of Saint-Gaudens is the capital of the ancient region of Comminges in the Pyrenees. Once home to 18 Gran Prix races for cars and 15 Gran Prix races for motorcycles the Comminges circuit was built in 1925 but closed in 1954. In 1989 the Aubusson tapestries were stolen from the Collegiate Church in a brazen night time robbery. The tapestries were made in 1760 by the Royal of Factory of Aubusson, “the Triumph of Faith” a copy of a Rubens painting and the “Martyrdom of Saint-Gaudens” which showed the legend of the saint beheaded by the Visigoths. An archivist from Aubusson happened to be flipping through a Sotheby’s sales catalog in 1997 and came across the stolen items. The FBI investigated and discovered they were the stolen goods they were returned to the town of Saint-Gaudens on September 29, 1997.

 

Arreau is a lovely little market town placed between the Col d’Aspin and the Col de Peyresourde at the confluence of the Neste d’Aure and the Neste de Louron.  When trade with Spain was prosperous the road through Arreau was used to travel in and out and the town thrived, which is evident in some of the old grand buildings. The Maison du Lys, built in the 16^th century with its exposed timbers are carved with fleur-de-lys.  The sticky cake Gateau à la broche brought over the Pyrenees from the Balkins by Napoleons armies  is famous in Arreau and can be found all over town. The Gateau is a tall tree looking cake that is traditionally cooked over an open fire on a spit.

The smaller of the town climbs for stage 9 is the Col d’Aspin at 1489 meters high. Only 90 minutes from Arreau and covered with green meadows with pale orange cows, dense forest  and amazing views all the way to the Pic du Midi de Bigorre.

 

If your catholic you may have heard of the town of Loudres, France. In 1858 a young peasant girl Bernadette Soubirous saw visions of the Virgin Mary in the town of Loudres. The town is now a pilgrimage for millions of Catholics each year.  Also in Loudres is the Grotte de Massabielle with its huge underground Basilique St-Pius X holds up to 20,000 people.  Loudres now has more hotel rooms in France, second to only to Paris and in the gift shops you can pick up key rings, magnets and thermometers with the Virgin Mary on them as a keepsake. The grand Basilique du Rosaire er de l’Immaculee Conception, built from 1871 to 1883 in a Roman-Byzantine and Gothic styles. In 1933 Pope Pius XI canonized Bernadette a saint, today she is the patron saint of sick people, poverty, the family and Loudres & shepherds.

 

The Col du Tourmalet is one of the many mythic spots that the Tour de France passes. The name literally translates to “the bad detour”.  At 2,115 meters it is the most visited climb on the Tour and has been used 75 times since 1910 when the Pyrenees were first added to the Tour.  In the winter you can ski at La Mongie ski resort that is located on the Tourmalet, and maybe stop for some cheese on the way down. The Tourmalet cheese is a sheep’s milk cheese made in the Pyrenees foothills in the Basque style, A hard, smooth and sharp cheese with a nutty flavor made from raw sheeps milk that have been grazing on the green grasses and herbs of the Pyrenees. It pairs perfectly with a glass of Viognier.

 

The village of Luz-Saint-Sauveur sits at the confluence of the Gavarnie and Bastan rivers.  The most attractive area of Luz is in the upper quarter where the fortified church of Saint-Andre is. The church was built in the 12^th century by the Knights of the Templars and then modified in the 14^th century by the Knights of St John.  

 

 The finish town of Tarbes is famous for its white beans but there is more to the town then that. The Jardin Massey is filled with peacocks and beautifully landscaped botanical gardens designed by the Tarbes native Placide Massey who also designed the Parc du Trianon at Versailles.  The Gothic cloister from the abbey of Saint-Sever-de-Rustan with its slightly eroded column capitals depicting a sword-brandishing angel expelling Adam and Eve from Eden.  Horse lovers might want to pay a visit to Les Haras, a stud farm first founded by Napoleon in 1806. Best known for its breed the cheval Tarbais a breed produced by crossing English, Basque and Arabian stock. The Tarbais bean was founded in Bigorre were the soil and the climate suited its cultivation.  It is distinguished by its thin skin and light flesh and is labeled with an IGP, the Indication Geographique Protégée, designation, that guarantees its quality and geographical origin. It is the only bean that is worthy in the authentic cassoulet.

For the Tour de French Cuisine we still had leftover cassoulet so that fit the stage, but I also decided to make something from the region. Piperade is a Basque region favorite but with many French flavors and popular in the Pyrenees area. Julia Child is the queen of French cooking, I don’t think I need to tell you that, here is her recipe. It is fantastic! You can serve it over fish, chicken, ham or even just a simple French omelet

·       6 medium tomatoes

·       1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

·       4 ounces thinly sliced Bayonne ham (or prosciutto), cut into 1/2-inch squares

·       2 medium garlic cloves, finely minced

·       2 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves
• 1 medium bay leaf
• 2 medium red bell peppers, cleaned and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips
• 2 medium green bell peppers, cleaned and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips
• 2 teaspoons piment d’Espelette (or paprika or cayenne pepper)

Directions

1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare an ice water bath by filling a medium bowl halfway with ice and water. Using the tip of a knife, remove the stem and cut a shallow X-shape into the bottom of each tomato. Place tomatoes in boiling water and blanch until the skin just starts to pucker and loosen, about 10 seconds. Drain tomatoes and immediately immerse them in ice water bath. Using a small knife, peel loosened skin and cut each tomato in half. With a small spoon, scrape out any seeds and core and coarsely chop the remaining flesh. Set aside.
2. Place a large frying pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. Once oil shimmers, add Bayonne ham (or prosciutto) and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove to a plate with a slotted spoon and reserve.
3. Return pan to heat, add 2 teaspoons oil, and, once heated, add garlic and onion. Cook, stirring rarely, until soft and beginning to color, about 8 minutes. Stir in herbs and pepper slices and season well with salt. Cover and cook, stirring rarely, until peppers are slightly softened, about 10 minutes.
4. Stir in diced tomatoes, browned ham, and piment d’Espelette (or paprika or cayenne pepper) and season well with salt. Cook uncovered until mixture melds together and juices have slightly thickened. Serve

 

 

Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 8; Andorre-la-Vielle to Saint Girons

With the start of stage 8 the Tour is going to leave Andorra behind and head back into France. Back to the safety of cooking that I know, but a nice little spin through Spain and Andorra with some amazing scenery that I hope everybody had a chance to watch some of the coverage on TV. Even if you aren’t a sports fan, it is worth it to tune in and just look at this beautiful part of the word. Andorra has some great houses built literally on the side of a rock cliff, I am not sure how people even get up to them, but it is breathtaking none the less.

 

Before we leave Andorra the Tour will start in Andorra La Vella which is the capital of Andorra and 7 kilometers from the Spanish border. Much of the houses are clustered onto terraces that overlook the Gran Valira. With its location at 1400 meters high, it is the highest capital city Europe and the town and the area surrounding has becoming a hotpot for winter sports, and some of the steepest climbs on this years Tour de France. The only monument in the town is the Casa de la Vall, built on 1580 for the Basquet family, in 1702 it was purchased at Consell General and it now is the home for the Sala de Sessions of Andorra’s parliament and the Tribunal de Corts courtroom. The nearby Escaldes-Engordany has a local hot springs with modern thermal baths of Caldea and a glass pyramid with indoor and outdoor lagoons that provide the latest in hydrotherapy and body treatments.

 

The first big climb outside of Andorra la Vella is the Port d’Envalira with an altitude of 7,897 feet it is one of the highest climbs on the Tour this year. Some of the best panoramic views can be seen from the Port d’Envalira, lush green valleys and high jagged peaks, it is truly a beautiful place.

 

Back into France and into the Ariege department of the Midi-Pyrenees, home to some of the most well know foods of France. It is the region of Foie Gras, pates and of course Cassoulet.  Lying between two of France’s biggest wine growing regions, Bordeaux and Languedoc, the Midi-Pyrenees produces a variety of good wines as well. The best known are Cahors, Fronton, Gaillac, Madiran, Pacherenc, Saint-Mont and the distinctive eau de vie, Armagnac.

 

At the confluence of the rivers Ariege and Oriege is the little resort town of Ax-les-Thermes, an elegant town filled with 19^th century Roman spas. The 64-172 degree spas are used to treat rheumatism, skin problems and breathing disorders. The Bassin de Ladres (lepers) is now a public pool on the place du Breilh which was originally built for the soldiers suffering leprosy in 1260. Besides the spas Ax makes a good central base for venturing out to the mountains and in the winter for the local ski resorts.

 

 In Tarascon-sur-Ariege it is hard to miss the 14^th century St Michel clock tower that watches over the small town from a hilltop. One of the largest towns on the old Raid Pyreneen route and home to many caves popular with speleologists.  Just outside of Tarascon, Lacombe on Route de Banat is Le Parc Pyreneen de l’Art Prehistorique, thirteen caves decorated with rock paintings. And the town of Niaux is also the entrance to La Grotte de Niaux one of Europe’s most important cave painting sites dating back to 12000 BC.

 

The second large climb of the day is the Col de Port, just east of Massat and with a height of 1249 meters. The Col de Port is a natural pathway between the Couserans and Foix and is on the line between two great culinary regions, Gascony and Languedoc.

 

Arriving next in Massat which was once the capital of the Couserans and sits on a slope above the River Arac. The 15^th century church stands at the intersection of two roads that cross the mountains, the Port de Lera and the Col de Port. The town use to be larger but now has a little over 500 people that now nestle in the valley of the Massif de l’Arize.

 

The finish town of Saint-Girons is a meeting point of the three rivers, the Baup, the Lez and the Salat. Just outside of Saint-Girons are the amazing caves of the Grotte de Mas d’Azil, part of the road even goes through the caves. A large arch greats you at the opening and the caves are built out of what was once a underground river beds.

 

 

For stage 8, being in the south of France, what else can I make but Cassoulet. A few months back I found the Thomas Keller Cassoulet recipe in the Williams-Sonoma catalog. Originally made for a slow cooker I adapted it for the oven instead and used a larger Le Creuset French oven, the only alteration I made was to put all the ingredients in the Le Creuset and put in a 250 degree oven for 5 hours, the last hour I turned it up to 350 degrees. It comes out perfect and since I made it back in January I crave this weekly.  The combination of the soft white beans and pork with the crunchy sliced baguettes and the salty pieces of bacon make it a perfect meal. We have a lot left over and the Tour must go on, leftovers are here for anybody that wants to stop by,

 

Bon Appetit!