Tour de French Cuisine-Saint-Gaudens to Tarbes

The start town of Saint-Gaudens is the capital of the ancient region of Comminges in the Pyrenees. Once home to 18 Gran Prix races for cars and 15 Gran Prix races for motorcycles the Comminges circuit was built in 1925 but closed in 1954. In 1989 the Aubusson tapestries were stolen from the Collegiate Church in a brazen night time robbery. The tapestries were made in 1760 by the Royal of Factory of Aubusson, “the Triumph of Faith” a copy of a Rubens painting and the “Martyrdom of Saint-Gaudens” which showed the legend of the saint beheaded by the Visigoths. An archivist from Aubusson happened to be flipping through a Sotheby’s sales catalog in 1997 and came across the stolen items. The FBI investigated and discovered they were the stolen goods they were returned to the town of Saint-Gaudens on September 29, 1997.

 

Arreau is a lovely little market town placed between the Col d’Aspin and the Col de Peyresourde at the confluence of the Neste d’Aure and the Neste de Louron.  When trade with Spain was prosperous the road through Arreau was used to travel in and out and the town thrived, which is evident in some of the old grand buildings. The Maison du Lys, built in the 16^th century with its exposed timbers are carved with fleur-de-lys.  The sticky cake Gateau à la broche brought over the Pyrenees from the Balkins by Napoleons armies  is famous in Arreau and can be found all over town. The Gateau is a tall tree looking cake that is traditionally cooked over an open fire on a spit.

The smaller of the town climbs for stage 9 is the Col d’Aspin at 1489 meters high. Only 90 minutes from Arreau and covered with green meadows with pale orange cows, dense forest  and amazing views all the way to the Pic du Midi de Bigorre.

 

If your catholic you may have heard of the town of Loudres, France. In 1858 a young peasant girl Bernadette Soubirous saw visions of the Virgin Mary in the town of Loudres. The town is now a pilgrimage for millions of Catholics each year.  Also in Loudres is the Grotte de Massabielle with its huge underground Basilique St-Pius X holds up to 20,000 people.  Loudres now has more hotel rooms in France, second to only to Paris and in the gift shops you can pick up key rings, magnets and thermometers with the Virgin Mary on them as a keepsake. The grand Basilique du Rosaire er de l’Immaculee Conception, built from 1871 to 1883 in a Roman-Byzantine and Gothic styles. In 1933 Pope Pius XI canonized Bernadette a saint, today she is the patron saint of sick people, poverty, the family and Loudres & shepherds.

 

The Col du Tourmalet is one of the many mythic spots that the Tour de France passes. The name literally translates to “the bad detour”.  At 2,115 meters it is the most visited climb on the Tour and has been used 75 times since 1910 when the Pyrenees were first added to the Tour.  In the winter you can ski at La Mongie ski resort that is located on the Tourmalet, and maybe stop for some cheese on the way down. The Tourmalet cheese is a sheep’s milk cheese made in the Pyrenees foothills in the Basque style, A hard, smooth and sharp cheese with a nutty flavor made from raw sheeps milk that have been grazing on the green grasses and herbs of the Pyrenees. It pairs perfectly with a glass of Viognier.

 

The village of Luz-Saint-Sauveur sits at the confluence of the Gavarnie and Bastan rivers.  The most attractive area of Luz is in the upper quarter where the fortified church of Saint-Andre is. The church was built in the 12^th century by the Knights of the Templars and then modified in the 14^th century by the Knights of St John.  

 

 The finish town of Tarbes is famous for its white beans but there is more to the town then that. The Jardin Massey is filled with peacocks and beautifully landscaped botanical gardens designed by the Tarbes native Placide Massey who also designed the Parc du Trianon at Versailles.  The Gothic cloister from the abbey of Saint-Sever-de-Rustan with its slightly eroded column capitals depicting a sword-brandishing angel expelling Adam and Eve from Eden.  Horse lovers might want to pay a visit to Les Haras, a stud farm first founded by Napoleon in 1806. Best known for its breed the cheval Tarbais a breed produced by crossing English, Basque and Arabian stock. The Tarbais bean was founded in Bigorre were the soil and the climate suited its cultivation.  It is distinguished by its thin skin and light flesh and is labeled with an IGP, the Indication Geographique Protégée, designation, that guarantees its quality and geographical origin. It is the only bean that is worthy in the authentic cassoulet.

For the Tour de French Cuisine we still had leftover cassoulet so that fit the stage, but I also decided to make something from the region. Piperade is a Basque region favorite but with many French flavors and popular in the Pyrenees area. Julia Child is the queen of French cooking, I don’t think I need to tell you that, here is her recipe. It is fantastic! You can serve it over fish, chicken, ham or even just a simple French omelet

·       6 medium tomatoes

·       1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons olive oil

·       4 ounces thinly sliced Bayonne ham (or prosciutto), cut into 1/2-inch squares

·       2 medium garlic cloves, finely minced

·       2 medium yellow onion, halved and thinly sliced

• 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped thyme leaves
• 1 medium bay leaf
• 2 medium red bell peppers, cleaned and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips
• 2 medium green bell peppers, cleaned and sliced lengthwise into 1/4-inch strips
• 2 teaspoons piment d’Espelette (or paprika or cayenne pepper)

Directions

1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil over high heat. Prepare an ice water bath by filling a medium bowl halfway with ice and water. Using the tip of a knife, remove the stem and cut a shallow X-shape into the bottom of each tomato. Place tomatoes in boiling water and blanch until the skin just starts to pucker and loosen, about 10 seconds. Drain tomatoes and immediately immerse them in ice water bath. Using a small knife, peel loosened skin and cut each tomato in half. With a small spoon, scrape out any seeds and core and coarsely chop the remaining flesh. Set aside.
2. Place a large frying pan over medium heat and add 1 tablespoon oil. Once oil shimmers, add Bayonne ham (or prosciutto) and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Remove to a plate with a slotted spoon and reserve.
3. Return pan to heat, add 2 teaspoons oil, and, once heated, add garlic and onion. Cook, stirring rarely, until soft and beginning to color, about 8 minutes. Stir in herbs and pepper slices and season well with salt. Cover and cook, stirring rarely, until peppers are slightly softened, about 10 minutes.
4. Stir in diced tomatoes, browned ham, and piment d’Espelette (or paprika or cayenne pepper) and season well with salt. Cook uncovered until mixture melds together and juices have slightly thickened. Serve