Tour de French Cuisine-Stage 2 Monaco-Brignoles

Stage #2 is over and in the books, leaving Monaco and heading into Provence region of France. What is not to love about Provence, you have food, sun, amazing flowers, 2000 year old ruins and some amazing people and views of the Mediterranean.  So here are the highlights of the stage and some great things that I discovered and made.

Roquebrune-Cap-Martin is a lovely little resort located on the Cap Martin and lies along the coast between Menton and Monte Carlo. The castle of Roquebrune sits atop the perched village on the Grand Corniche. Built in the 10^th century by Conrad the I, the count of Ventimiglia but later belonging to the Grimaldis for centuries who remodeled it and later in the 15^th century when the keep became the castle and the rest of the fortress became the village. It is an amazing thing to see and worth a trip to.

 

Just past Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Beausoleil is another hilltop village of La Turbie. Here you will find one of the oldest monuments in the entire Riviera. The “Trophee des Alpes” was built in 6BC by the Roman emperor Augusts to celebrate his victory of the the Celto-Liqurian tribes. In 1705 Lois IV ordered that it be blown up, although some of it withstood his attempt. It still stands today some 2000 years later and is second only to another Roman trophy still standing in Bucharest. (picture below)

 

Villefranche-sur-Mer is located just 6km from Nice, known for its fishing port and resort along one of the most beautiful harbors of the Mediterranean. It is not uncommon to see large cruise ships docked along the harbor to visit its 17 century character and beautiful old streets with sorbet colored houses.

 

Nice is the French Rivera’s largest city and a little more laid back then its neighbors Monaco or St Tropez.  Although it did not see the boom of sun bathing and tourism until the 1920’s, but did become a summer home of British aristocrats looking for a cure for their winter blues in the sun in the 1820’s. The most popular roadway in Nice the Promenade des Anglais was created by a British gentleman names Lewis Way when he collected funds from his fellow countryman to create the coastal walkway. When it was first created it was only two meters wide, it was enlarged in 1844 and given its current name and is now lined with luxury hotels and villas.

 

          One of the most popular items in Nice and something that should not be missed is Socca. Socca is a thin crepe made from Chickpea flower and olive oil and baked on large thin and flat round pan and sometimes cooked over an open flame. You can find Socca being sold on the streets of the Vieux Nice, it is one of the most beloved things of Nice. At one point the city felt that the Socca stands cluttered the city and banned the carts, but with public outcry they were allowed to sell the again. Like a lot of things in France, going to the source is worth it, for nobody makes Socca better then the people of Nice. Enjoy it hot with some sea salt and cracked pepper.

          I took a stab at making Socca with the help of David Lebovitz and his new book “A Sweet Life in Paris” They turned out great and tasted wonderful. Light and crispy and I added the salt and pepper and a little chopped fresh rosemary.

 

St-Laurent-du-Var sits along the Var river which was once the main route between Provence and the country of Nice in the 5^th century. Along the banks of the river small villages set up fortified areas to protect themselves against the wars that broke out along the way. Today St-Laurent-du-Var is famous with rock climbers with its Baou (rock in Provencal)

 

 

The Cagnes-sur-Mer, just by the name you will know this is a lovely town to visit. The area around Cagnes is split into three areas. The Cros-de-Cagnes is the seaside resort, Cagnes-sur-Mer is the modern town and the Haut-de-Cagnes is topped with the 14^th century chateau. You can find fine olives, vines and flowers in Cagnes and if you hang out near the water you may see some fisherman brining in the fresh catch of the day.  If you are a fan of fine art a visit to the Musee Renoir should be on your list. The museum is located at Les Collettes where Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841-1919) spent the last 12 years of his life. His house and two studios have been restored just as they were when he lived there. Here you can see some of his canvases from his more sensual period with lovely female forms

 

Villeneuve-Loubet is another town that has all the amentias of a seaside resort but the charm of an old village. The medieval castle and its village are edged by the coast and marina. But one of the greatest claims to fame in Villeneuve is it was the home of the illustrious cook Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). Here you will find the Musee Escoffier de l’Art Culinaire in the native house of Escoffier. His cooking utensils and his reconstructed kitchen can be seen as well as over 1500 menus.

 

Grasse- The center of the perfume industry for France, here you will find fields of lavender, orange blossoms, roses and jasmine and if you are up early enough you may see them being picked when they are at their fullest and freshest.  Back in the 16^th century perfumed gloves were quite in fashion.  Perfumed gloves were made to help mask some of the more unfortunate smells of society and were a practice that became popular because of Catherine de Medici and helped create the perfume industry in Grasse.  

 

Fayence the home for artists of all the trades. Potters, stone and wood carvers, weavers, painters and coppersmiths all make a living on the picturesque streets/ Fayence is also the place to be if you are looking to do some hang gliding

 

Draguignan is one of the only towns in the Var region that is located inland and uses to be the capital of the Var department until 1975. Its name comes from a dragon that was said to have terrorized the area in the 5^th century. Today the area plays homage to the dragon in crests on gateways and house. Just east of Draguignan on the D59 is the beautiful American cemetery to commemorate the US 7^th Army’s surprise landing on August 19, 1944 as it drove up the Rhone Valley.

 

Before the Tour ends today in Brignoles they will ride through the small medieval town of Lorgues that has a beautiful central square with trees planted in 1835. Just beyond the village are the hilltops with olive trees and vines that are perfectly cultivated from the terroir of Provence.  Oil from both olives and grape seed is a specialty of Lorgues

 

The Tour ends in the narrow twisting streets of Brignoles that sits below the castle that was once home to the counts of Provence.  Along the green rolling countryside of the Carami Valley the market rich town produces peaches, honey, olives and oil. Each year in April the area holds its annual wine exhibition which has now made the town the wine capital of the Var and Provence. One of the most famous things to come out of Brignoles is the Brignoles Plums. They were famous throughout the kingdom until the 16^th century when they were then ransacked and destroyed. Since then Brignoles Plums are actually grown in Digne.

Some of the treats  from this area of France I created was the Socca, from Nice. Another thing I was very excited to make and find at my local farmers market was Squash Blossoms. I did some research and decided to make a filling of typical Provencal flavors: goat cheese, fresh herbs de Provence mixture and then breading it with flour and a little cornmeal to add some crunch.

 

Another very traditional dish of the region is Stocafi, a fish stew made with salt cured cod.  Last year I wanted to make a dish wish salt cod but I couldn’t find it anywhere. Fast forward a few months back and guess what I see at Safeway of all places? So I bought it right away and since it is salt cured it is good for a very long time. I have looked for an authentic recipe for months and all I could find is “salt cod cooked in a tomato broth with small vegetables” I could take it from there but wanted it to be more accurate. I did locate a version finally and that is what I used. I should have made it Sunday night but due to a migraine there wasn’t any cooking going on, so Monday lunch it was. I had my sister and nephew and my fellow Francophile niece over. It was a hit even with the kids. The flavors were very fresh and the nicoise olives added the perfect amount of saltiness to it.

 

The recipe I found was from Chef Andy D’Amico of Nice Matin. I altered it just a bit and here is the final edition with my changes. Try it, it really it was very good!

Ingredients

1 pound dried salt cod
1/2 cup to 1 cup olive oil
1/2 cup 1/4-inch-diced onions
4 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1/2 jalapeño, minced and seeded (if the jalapeño is mild, leave the seeds in)
2 ounces chicken stock or white wine 
2 cups tomatoes, chopped, with their juice
Bouquet garni: parsley stems, thyme and a bay leaf, tied in cheesecloth
1 cup 1/2-inch-diced bell pepper
1/2 cup pitted Niçoise olives
1 tablespoon capers, rinsed
Fruity extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
Sea-salt crystals and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

 Place the dried cod in a bowl, cover with cold water, and soak for at least 48 hours, changing the water every 12 hours. Remove the cod from the water, pat dry with paper towels, and cut into 1-inch pieces.

 

Heat 3 tablespoons oil in a Teflon sauté pan, add the cod in small batches, and sauté until lightly browned; set aside and repeat with remaining cod. (If the cod is too wet, it will not brown.)

Warm 4 tablespoons oil in a 2-quart casserole; add the onions, garlic, and jalapeño; and cook gently without allowing them to color. Pour in the grappa, and reduce until the liquid has evaporated. Add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Add the browned salt cod and bouquet garni, cover the casserole, and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Fold in the peppers, olives, and capers, and return to a simmer for an additional 15 minutes. The stew should be juicy; if it becomes dry, add a little water or stock. Ladle into bowls, drizzle with the fruity olive oil, and sprinkle with plenty of black pepper and a few coarse sea-salt crystals. Serve with grilled or crusty fresh bread.

 

Bon Appetit!