July 3, 2010
Prologue- Rotterdam
It’s hard to believe that this day has finally come, eleven months of waiting comes down to an early Saturday morning that can’t come soon enough. But I must admit, once it starts I already think with each day we are closer to the end, but let’s look at that glass as half full and enjoy every single second of it shall we.
The 2010 Tour de France starts outside of France, now if you don’t follow every teeny tiny detail you may think that is odd. But since 1954 every few years the Tour starts in one of the neighboring countries, Liege, Belgium in 2004, London in 2007 and Monaco in 2009 in the most recent years. This year it begins in the Netherlands in Rotterdam, just to the North of France and a city that has what would seem more bikes on the roads then cars. Rotterdam sits in the Dutch province of South Holland close to the North Sea on the Nieuwe Mass River. South Holland or Zuid-Holland is the most densely populated province in the Netherlands and was once simply knows as just Holland. Today’s Rotterdam was founded near a dam on the river Rotte, thus the name Rotterdam. With its location so close to waterways and the North Sea, Rotterdam quickly became one of Europe’s largest ports, by 1962 it was the world’s busiest port and gateway into Europe.
The Netherlands, is sometimes referred to as Holland, although Holland is technically a region in the western part of the Netherlands where Rotterdam actually sits. Rotterdam, is the 2nd most populated city in the Netherlands, only behind the capital city of Amsterdam that sits north of Rotterdam. The Rotterdam today is a very modern city with contemporary architecture and stunning bridges. But the look of the city today came from some very unfortunate events. On May 14, 1940 Rotterdam was almost completely destroyed in what is now known as the “Rotterdam Blitz” With its location between Great Britain and Germany, the Netherlands was a perfect location for a German air base. Hitler ordered the attack and in the early morning hours of May 10th it began. The Luftwaffe, the German air force flew through the Dutch air space, but once it reached the North Sea they turned around and started the attack. Paratroopers were dropped into Ockenburg and Valkenburg and the Battle for The Hague began near the Royal Palace at The Hague which is northwest of Rotterdam. The Dutch army held off the German advances and gave Germany one of its first losses in the Second World War.
On May 13th the Dutch army was able to keep the Germany army from crossing the banks of the Nueuwe Maas River, which runs through the center of Rotterdam. Unhappy with this outcome the German general Schmidt threatened the Dutch army Colonel Scharroo destruction of the city. Through negotiations between the two men, ultimatums were made, but none were agreed on. Shortly after 4:25pm local time more than 90 bombers could be heard screaming overhead. More than 1250 bombs were dropped, destroying schools, churches and homes and setting the city aflame. Hundreds of people were killed and 90% of Rotterdam was leveled to the ground.
On March 31, 1943 Rotterdam was again hit by bombs, this time by the Americans. Just west of the Erasmus Bridge where the Tour will ride across, in the industrial area of Keilehaven, the American bombers attacked, this has been called the “Forgotten Bombardment” and over 400 people were killed.
Beginning in the 1950’s the city began to rebuild, with new urban planning laws that encouraged open spaces and cultural centers, Rotterdam was embarking on a new vision for the city and Europe. The greatest and most aggressive growth came in the 1980’s. Very modern office buildings and apartments began to pop up in some of the most devastated areas and brought the city back to life. South of the Maas, which was wide open was built up with a large theater and sporting complex which is also the spot for the start and end of the Prologue stage.
One of the most visible landmarks of Rotterdam is also one of the newest. Official opened in 1996, the Erasmus Bridge that crosses over the Nieuwe Maas is a large single pylon bridge designed by Ben van Berkel . The “Swan” as it has been called by the locals is 2600 feet long and has two ramps that are joined in the middle with a fixed metal cable bridge and a steel bascule bridge that can be lifted for large river traffic. The bridge is named after Desiderius Erasmus Roterodamus, the Renaissance humanist writer that was born in 1469 just outside of Rotterdam in Gouda. The son of a doctor’s daughter and priest who would die in 1488 he joined the Augustinian monastery in Stein but by 1943 he would leave the convent after being offered a job to be the secretary to the Bishop of Cambrai. (Cambrai is in France and will be part of the Tour de France on stage 4) He was able to travel with the Bishop and in 1495 with the Bishops permission received a scholarship to study at the Sarbonne in Paris. He went on to become a professor at the University of Leuven in Belgium and writing many thought provoking pieces on religion. His most famous being written in 1511, “The Praise of the Folly” was an attack on corruption within the church. But his best sellers were his over 4000 proverbs including “Prevention is better than a cure” Erasmus would move to Basel in the North of Switzerland near the Alsace border of France, and died in 1536 and is buried at the old catholic church. In 1973 the University of Rotterdam was named after him, and the city celebrated his many milestones every year. (Although he only lived in the city of Rotterdam for 4 years)
The food of the Netherlands like most places is all based on the location. With its location near the sea, large open meadows and mild climate many local treasures can be found here. The Dutch prescribe to the notion of eating what is in season and local and at its peak of freshness. So let’s first try some cheese….. The first cheese that comes to mind when you think of the Netherlands is Gouda. Gouda from a little town north-east of Rotterdam (and the birthplace of Erasmus) dates back to the 6th century and was already well known as early as the 13th century across Europe. Gouda represents 65% of the cheese that is produced in Holland with pasteurized cow’s milk. Shaped like a large wheel they can weigh up to 50 pounds and can be found wrapped in red wax, which helps it age. Gouda is a semi hard to hard pressed cheese and can have a smooth texture for the younger cheese to a hard and brittle texture for the more aged cheese.
Leyden cheese or Boeren-Leidse met Sleutels is a very mild cows milk cheese that is semi hard with a natural rind. Made in Leiden, near the coast north west of Rotterdam by less than a few dozen farmers and controlled by the PDO or Protected Designation of Origin, much like the AOC in France. The PDO name Boeren-Leidse met Sleutels translates to “Farmer’s Leiden cheese with keys” referring to the image of the keys that was on the rind from the coat of arms of Leiden. In the cheese making process at the point that the mile has clotted cumin seeds or aniseed are added and then pressed. It is a rather mild cheese; the addition of cumin seeds gives it a nice hint of flavor.
Ewephoria is a newer cheese out of Holland, made with sheep’s milk get the name now, and in a Gouda style. It is a very sweet cheese, butterscotch in color and developed specifically for the American market.
With the location to the North Sea, the Netherlands has a plethora of fish to choose from. Again the Netherlands eat what is in season and fresh. Off of the Province Zeeland, where the Tour will go by on the first stage, Imperiale Oysters are the specialty. A Dutch tradition is to enjoy oysters on the half shell, a little pepper and a wedge of lemon with a bottle of champagne to ring in the New Year. In honor of the Dutch love of fish I made Gestoofde Kabeljauw of Shelvis met Aardappelen or Baked Cod with Potatoes
Gestoofde Kabeljauw of Shelvis met Aardappelen
2 onions, chopped
4 tablespoons of butter
4-6 fillets of cod
1 pound baking potatoes
3 eggs
½ teaspoon of salt
1 cup sour cream
Toasted bread crumbs
Fry the onions in the butter until a light golden brown. In a saucepan boil the potatoes whole for 10 minutes or until easily pierced with a knife. You don’t want them to be completely falling apart though. Once cooked remove from pan and peel, slice them into ¼ inch thick slices and set aside. In an oven proof dish layer starting with the fish, top with a layer of the potatoes, half of the onions and then repeat once more. In a small bowl beat the eggs slightly and then add the sour cream and whisk together. Pour the sour cream mixture over the fish and potatoes and top with bread crumbs. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 40-50 minutes or until lightly browned on top.
Asparagus, especially white asparagus is a favorite of the people of the Netherlands. White asparagus tastes the same as green asparagus but is kept covered with dirt and a container to keep the sun and light off of it. This recipe is classic Dutch and includes Hollandaise sauce. A French sauce but some may argue that it was also invented in Holland, where it was mentioned in a cookbook dated back to 1593.
Dutch Asparagus
20 asparagus spears
1 tsp salt
4 whole eggs & 4 egg yolks
8 slices ham
4 tbsp dry white wine
1 cup melted butter
Pinch of nutmeg
1/2 tsp lemon juice
Pinch of salt and white pepper
2 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley
Rinse and peel the ends of the asparagus, in a large saucepan bring some salted water to a boil and add the asparagus, cook for 8 to 10 minutes. You just want the asparagus to be crisp tender and not limp.
Hard boil the 4 eggs, let cool and chop. Slice the ham into thin strips and set aside.
Now don’t get scared, Hollandaise is really easy: beat egg yolks and wine until foamy. Place on a low heat and beat continuously until the sauce thickens. Remove from the heat and add the melted butter in a thin trickle, while continuing to whisk. Add the nutmeg, lemon juice, salt and white pepper. Whisk again, and set aside.
To serve, place the asparagus spears in the same direction, and top with the Hollandaise sauce, chopped ham and boiled eggs. Scatter parsley over and serve with the rest of the chilled wine.
And last but not least, a little dessert: Flensjes are very much like a French Crepe and are made the same way. I was happy to use my Le Creuset Crepe pan for the first time.
Flensjes or very thin pancakes
¾ cup flour
3 eggs
Pinch of Salt
2 cups milk
Powdered sugar
In a bowl place the flour and create a well in the center. Add the eggs and salt and lightly incorporate together. Mix thoroughly and add milk in a steady stream and mix well. Using a crepe pan or a small skillet add a bit of butter and grease the bottom of the pan. Pour a small amount of the batter and spread out. Work fast because it will start to cook instantly. Brown on side, this will only take a minute or so, have everything ready to go. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and using a thin spatula roll the pancakes up and serve immediately.
