Tour de French Cuisine stage 16; Luchon to Pau

July 20, 2010

Stage 16: Bagneres-de-Luchon to Pau

After yesterdays fireworks this stage had all the setup to be a great one, but it was Lance Armstrong in the end that made the stage so memorable. I am one of the people that adore Lance and his tour this year has not been what it used to be. But today the Lance of old was back and it was just 6kilometeres from the start that he made his break and stayed on the front until the finish. The Frenchman Fedriggo won the stage, giving France one of the best Tours since 1997 winning six stages so far and of those the last three in a row.

The Tour leaves Bagneres-de-Luchon the same town we finished in yesterday. The “Queen of the Pyrenees” made a great base and starting point before heading into the most mythical of all the climbs of the Pyrenees. In 1864 a group was created that was dedicated to the study of the Pyrenees. The Societe Ramond as it was penned was named after the French geologist and botanist Louis Ramond de Carbonnieres and one of the first explorers of the Pyrenees. The Societe was responsible for the creation of the observatory on the Pic du Midi de Bigorre. The dome was finished by 1908 and in 1963 NASA installed a 42 inch telescope that would get the detailed images of the moon before the start of the Apollo missions.

 Arreau is a lovely little market town placed between the Col d’Aspin and the Col de Peyresourde at the confluence of the Neste d’Aure and the Neste de Louron.  When trade with Spain was prosperous the road through Arreau was used to travel in and out and the town thrived, which is evident in some of the old grand buildings. The Maison du Lys, built in the 16^th century with its exposed timbers is carved with fleur-de-lys.  The sticky cake Gateau à la broche brought over the Pyrenees from the Balkins by Napoleons armies  is famous in Arreau and can be found all over town. The Gateau is a tall tree looking cake that is traditionally cooked over an open fire on a spit.

The smaller of the town climbs for stage 9 is the Col d’Aspin at 1489 meters high. Only 90 minutes from Arreau and covered with green meadows with pale orange cows, dense forest  and amazing views all the way to the Pic du Midi de Bigorre.

The Col du Tourmalet is one of the many mythic spots that the Tour de France passes. The name literally translates to “the bad detour”.  At 2,115 meters it is the most visited climb on the Tour and has been used 76 times since 1910 when the Pyrenees were first added to the Tour.  In the winter you can ski at La Mongie ski resort that is located on the Tourmalet, and maybe stop for some cheese on the way down. The Tourmalet cheese is a sheep’s milk cheese made in the Pyrenees foothills in the Basque style, A hard, smooth and sharp cheese with a nutty flavor made from raw sheep’s milk that have been grazing on the green grasses and herbs of the Pyrenees. It pairs perfectly with a glass of Viognier.

 

The west side of Col du Tourmalet viewed from the top --

the highest paved road in the French Pyrénées

Photo courtsesy of Steve from steephill.com the best cycling website out there. Merci Steve!

The village of Luz-Saint-Sauveur sits at the confluence of the Gavarnie and Bastan rivers.  The most attractive area of Luz is in the upper quarter where the fortified church of Saint-Andre is. The church was built in the 12^th century by the Knights of the Templars and then modified in the 14^th century by the Knights of St John. 

Argeles-Gazost is another lovely spa town where the River Pau and River Azun meet. One of the many towns in the area that sees the Tour roar through it has only been a starting host city once, in 1996. Originally named Ourout, the name was changed the Argeles and later the Gazost was added. Gazost is the name given to the spring nearby that is the source of the therapeutic water used in the spa that is good for ear, nose and throat infections. Don’t miss a chance to visit the Parc Animalier des Pyrénées. The small zoo has regional animals that could be found in and around the Pyrenees, such as goats, brown bears, wolves and deer.

The Pyrenees-Atlantique department stretches from Pau to the Atlantic Ocean incorporating the Northern part of the Basque Country. Originally named the Basses-Pyrenees it was changed to the current name in October 1969.  Part of the Aquitane region that follows up the Atlantic coast to Bordeaux is home to only 6% of the French population.

la Corniche du Cirque de Litor between Col du Soulor and Col d'Aubisque 

 Todays stage consists of five climbs, the 1^st category Col de Peyresourde and d’Aspin and the HC climbs of the Col du Tourmalet, d’Aubisque and du Soulor. When you see the HC on the map it’s “beyond category” basically, it’s really high and steep. The Col du Soulor at 4,836 feet is where most of the climb to the d’Aubsique will happen. When looking at the profile of the stage the two are pretty close together but from the summit of the Col du Soulor to the begining of the climb up the Col d’Aubsique is less than 4 miles.  The Col d’Aubsique altitude is 5,607 feet and was first used in 1910 during the Tour de France, and since then 43 times making it the second most visited in the history of the Tour.

The ski resort of Gourette sits atop the Col d’Aubsique and is part of the commune known as Eaux-Bonnes.  Gourette would not be there today if it wasn’t for the local resident of Pau, Henry Sallanave. In 1903 he brought downhill skiing to the Pyrenees and now holds International competitions every year since 1908. The resort itself would open in 1930 and is one of the largest ski areas in the Pyrenees mountain chain. In the summer the resort is open to hikers and I am sure cyclist that wants to tackle the historic climbs.

Eaux-Bonnes, French for good water is another spa village hidden in the Vallee du Valintin. The waters were developed in the 18^th century by Bearn doctor Theophile de Bordeau to help treat respiratory issues with its thermal waters. Napoleon III’s wife the Empress Eugenie spent time at the spa and in the area in 1840 and was so attached to the area and the scenic views she was a major influence in developing the area.

The finishing town of Pau has been a part of the Tour de France with more than 60 tour starts or finishes and is a point in the route through the Pyrenees. The only places more visited then Pau is Bordeaux and Paris. More on Pau on Thursday.

At this point the Basque Country of France is within a stone’s throw so more Basque cooking tonight. Poulet Basquaise is very Spanish in flavor and a simple one dish meal with all the flavors that make Basque cooking so distinct, peppers, spice and ham.

Poulet Basque   Basque Chicken

Chicken cut up into 8 pieces

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

salt and pepper

garlic clove

1/4 cup olive oil

1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped

4 oz  chopped Bayonne ham

1 pound green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into 8 strips

4 oz mushrooms sliced

½ small fresh red chili finely chopped or large pinch of cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

Preparation:

Rinse and dry the chicken pieces, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with flour, shaking off any excess. Rub a heavy skillet with garlic clove and heat the oil over medium-high heat. Brown the chicken pieces for 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Add the ham, peppers, mushrooms and tomatoes, cover and cook over low heat for 25 minutes. Remove lid and continue to cook for 30 minutes until the chicken is tender and cooked through. Taste for seasoning and add the hot pepper and stir through. Serve the chicken and peppers over rice and garnish with the fresh parsley, there should be enough sauce to moisten the rice.

Bon Appétit!