July 5, 2010
Brussels to Spa
Three days into the Tour de France and it has been a good one. Still in Belgium the riders will be leaving Brussels behind and heading east to the Walloon region and Province of Liege and the town of Spa. Part of the course can be seen in the oldest or La Doyenne as it is called, the Liege-Bastogne-Liege spring classic bike race. The first week is normally the sprinters week, the guys that like to go hard and fast to the line to pick up a stage win and points for the Green jersey. But so far the 1st and 2nd stage has been completely crazy with crash after crash coming into the finish of Brussels on Sunday and today with a crash that took out most of the Peloton and looked more like cycling on a skating rink. Stage 3 is going to be a can’t miss stage when they hit the Pave’s of Belgium and Northern France.
But before we can cross into France on Tuesday we have to finish our time exploring Belgium. The start city of Brussels is also the capital of Belgium and also the center of the European Union. Following the Second World War, NATO and the EU made Brussels there administrative center and many other European organizations followed. The center of Brussels is encircled by ring of roads that mark the same path as the ancient city wall. The 5 sided “circle” looks a little more like a pentagon and is very visible by looking at any satellite map, some think it looks like a heart, but unsure how they see that. Within the center of the ring is the Grand Palace, Central Station and most of the older buildings of the city. Brussels is divided by elevation; on the east is the upper half that sits at 200 feet above the lower half. In the upper half the nobility and upper-class lived and the large houses and wide streets are evident. On the west side the lower half sits at sea level and is home to the Grand Palace and the famous Manneken-Pis statue.
The Manneken-Pis statue is the “peeing little boy”, a bronze statue. Little Julien as he has been named sits near the Grand Palace and dates back to 1619 when sculptor Jerome Duquesnoy created him to provide drinking water to the neighborhood. He has had quite the checkered past, in 1628 it was destroyed by an overindulging drunk, in 1745 the British Troops marred him and in 1748 the French took custody of the poor little guy in 1747. Little Julien has quite an extensive closet with more than 800 outfits for any occasion, and it all started after Louis XV of France presented Brussels with a gold-embroidered suit for him. He has been presented with costumes ever since from visiting dignitaries, tourists and film actors including John Malkovich. The legend of the statue is that a bad little boy was found peeing on a witch’s house and so she froze him, or the locals like to think that the little boy adored the local Belgium beer and when a fire threatened to destroy the city he made good use of all that beer he drank and helped put out the fire. Or that the statue is just a motto for the city “Where people eat, drink…and drink… and then pee”
Leaving Brussels behind and heading east to Spa and through the Walloon Brabant, Namur and finally the Liege Provinces that many of the amazing Chateaux’s of Belgium can be found. 63km into the stage the town of Hannut is the Church of Saint Christopher with the large 12 foot statue of the patron saint can be found in the 14th century church.
The breathtaking castles that line the area can be seen gracing the many large green meadows, tucked into trees and sitting atop hills. Among these are the Fallais Castle in Braives 71km along the route. Once belonging to Charles the Bold the Duke of Burgundy in the 15th century and later a base for King Louis XIV of France during the Siege of Namur nearby. Sitting at the top of Modave overlooking the town of Huy is the chateau of the Counts of Marchin, dating back to the 13th century.
If you watched today you might have seen a large structure that looked like a maze, toward the end in the town of Wanne. The Puzzle Planet is a 1.8 mile long maze built out of wood. Just before entering the finish town of Spa the small town of Stavelot sits at the base of the Col de Stockeau where a mass crash and carnage happened in today’s stage. Only time will tell tonight who will make it through the bumps and bruises and be able to start tomorrow. Stavelot is a small town sitting in the Ardennes area that spans through Belgium, Luxembourg and Northern France. The half-timbered houses, lovely squares and fountains and the wonderfully restored 16th century abbey all add to the charming town.
The finish town of Spa, a name like so many in Europe that has lent it geographic name to a specific item or specialty. Derived from a Walloon word meaning fountain, Spa became world famous. The world’s first health resort dates back to the 16th century based on the healing powers of the water that is found in this part of the world. Kings and Queens came to visit but following the visit by Peter the Great he describing it as “the best place to take the waters” It reached its pinnacle of fame in the 18th and 19th centuries, being called “Café Europe” and visited by the European monacharies, aristocrats, politicians and celebrities from every corner of Europe. It slowly declined as the popularity of spas popped up in every area of Europe, but today Spa is getting a bit of resurgence. A visit of the Tour de France couldn’t hurt.
Belgium is bordered by the Netherlands, Germany, France and Luxembourg and because of that the influence bleeds over into the cuisine of Belgium. With more of an influence from the French and a touch of the German and Dutch the dishes are similar to those that you may find in Northern France as well. I found this recipe that can be traditionally made with fish but can also be found using chicken. It is a rich and delicious chicken soup finished with a little cream. It received a “this is the best chicken soup ever” from my husband, so on the next late fall cool day make this one for sure.
Waterzooi de Poulet 3 medium sized leeks cut in half and then thinly sliced
2 celery stalks thinly sliced
3 tablespoons of butter
Salt and pepper, to taste
6 pieces of chicken, preferable breasts, thighs and legs
1 cups dry white wine
6 cups chicken broth
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 egg yolks
minced fresh parsley
Using a pot large enough to hold the chicken and the vegetables melt the butter layer the vegetables and cover with wine. Cover with a piece of parchment paper with a small hole cut into the center to let the steam escape and cook for 20 minutes. Remove the parchment and add the chicken pieces on top of the vegetables and cook, flipping the chicken occasionally for 70 to 80 minutes. Remove the chicken, let cool and shred.
Add the cream, egg yolks and minced parsley and reaming tablespoons of butter into a small bowl and mix together. Slowly add to the hot soup and blend. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if desired. Return the chicken to the pot, set over medium low heat, and cook until thickened slightly, but don’t let it boil.
To serve add some of the shredded chicken to a bowl and ladle in some of the broth and vegetables. Top off with some homemade croutons and enjoy!
Filled Belgian Endive
A classic hors d’oeuvres, filled Belgian Endive leaves are an easy and elegant treat. The lovely little pale leaves can stand in as a healthier choice than a cracker and can be topped with just about anything. But a quick mix of goat cheese and fresh herbs makes a lovely presentation
6 ounces soft goat cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, basil, chives, dill, tarragon or parsley.
Olive oil
Mix softened goat cheese and herbs together in a small bowl. Can be spooned onto Endive but the presentation can me even nicer if you have a piping back and star tipped cake decorating tool. Just fill the bag and go.
Salade d’Ardennes
Small head of Red leaf lettuce
2 or 3 Belgium endive
Cherry tomatoes
Good quality ham or prosciutto
Olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 to 4 slices of country style bread slightly dried, cut into bite size pieces
2 cloves of garlic, peeled
Fresh parsley
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/3 to ½ cup red wine vinegar
2 large egg yolks
1 ½ cups vegetable oil
3 tablespoons minced shallots
2 tablespoons fresh parsley
Salt and pepper
To make the salad: Rinse all the salad greens, dry and place in a large bowl with tomatoes and hams.
In a large skillet melt butter and oil over low heat and add the bread and brown (watch carefully) drain on a paper towel lined tray and rub with the garlic cloves.
To make the Vinaigrette: whisk by hand the mustard, 1/3 cup vinegar and egg yolks together, add the oil in a few drops at a time and incorporate add the rest of the oil and keep whisking until emulsified. Add shallots, salt and pepper to taste.
Add the vinaigrette to the greens, tomatoes, ham and croutons and toss and serve.
Bon Appétit!
