Stage 4-TdF Cuisine Cambrai-Reims, Champagne ooh la la

July 7, 2010

Stage 4 Cambrai to Reims

The first full stage of the 2010 Tour de France to take place in France starts today and from here until July 25^th they will stay.  The first three stages have been nothing less than exciting; the next three stages will be flat and fast and will see the fast sprint finishes for the green jerseys.

The stage leaves from the south edge of the Nord-de-Pas-de-Calais region and the town of Cambrai.  Cambrai traces back to the 4^th century when it was first mentioned on the Peutinger Table, a map of the Roman Empire road network for the courier and transportation to pass messages and collect taxes. The map covers Europe, Asia and North Africa and measuring 1.12 feet high by 22.14 feet long and made of eleven sections of parchment and rolled. The map was discovered in a library in Worms, Germany and in 1508 was published by Konrad Peutinger who the map was then named after.

During the Middle Ages the weaving industry grew in Cambrai and the fine lightweight cloth Cambric was developed. Dating back to the 16^th century the cotton cloth was used for lacework, lingerie. Cambrai has also lent its name to the oblong mint sweets, Betises de Cambrai, which as the legend goes, was created by mistake. Bêtises, translates to mistake and the legend is that in the 19^th Century a confectioners apprentice made the error, but it seems he may have had the last laugh. Still today they are made and adored for their crisp refreshing taste and help in after dinner digesting.

Another legend of Cambrai is that of Martin and Martine the giants that have become the mascots of the city. The story goes that in the 14^th century when the town was fighting the tyrant lord of the Thun-Leveque. Martin decided to take matters into his own hands and with Martine at his side took an iron hammer confronted the tyrant and struck him on the head. But since the evil lord was wearing a steel helmet it didn’t break but was forced down through his head and into his eyes. The lord of Thun-Leveque surrendered and Martin and Martine saved the city. Today above the town hall Martin and Martine oversee the city they saved and strike the bell tower everyday on the hour.

Amongst the vast plains of cereal crops just 11 kilometers outside of Cambrai on the banks of the River Escaut the town of Esnes and its 14^th century chateaux sits. The feudal style chateaux sits on the opposite side of the river from the town and the 14^th century turret overlooks it. In the 15^th century the entrance tower and rest of the chateaux was added and during the 18^th century partially rebuilt. Today the chateau is still owned by the same family now in its 29^th generation of ownership.

Leaving Esnes and heading into the Aisne department named after the Aisne River that 180 miles flows north and then west. The Aisne department was the first area to see the use of “trench warfare” during the First World War. Playing another important role in French history, the Aisne town of Villers-Cotterets was the spot where King Francis I of France signed the Ordinance of Villers-Cotterets in 1539 making french the official language of France. Tres Bien!

  In the town of Bohain-en-Vermandois the French painter Henry Mattise lived as a boy in the center of town. After his 18^th birthday he left for Paris where he was to study law but after his mother gave him a set of paints he found “a kind of paradise” and much to his father’s displeasure became a painter. He became one of the greatest artists of the 20^th centuries and highly regarded for his use of color. 

In Guise a statue of the French Revolution leader and native of Guise, Camillle Desmoulins who was later guillotined. The statue depicts him holding a chestnut tree branch that he used to beat away the crowds while the royal palace tried to push them away.  After being arrested and tried on April 5, 1794 he met his end by way of the guillotine.

The small village of Marchais is home to the Chateaux de Marchais, built in 1540 by Nicolas de Longueval Count of Bossut, Superintendent of Finance for King Francois I of France and governor of Champagne and Brie. Purchased in 1854 by Princess Antoinette of Monaco, wife of Prince Charles III of Monaco, today it still belongs to the Royal family if Monaco, the Grimaldis.

The finishing town of Reims is one of the two major cities of the Champagne region. Let’s get this out of the way first, Reims rhymes with France, yes it seems strange but just say it, or just say France and drop the F.. RANCE.  Reims can stake its claims to being one of the most historical towns in all of France.  It has been a part of the aristocratically and political history of France since the 5^th century. From 816 to 1825 thirty-four sovereigns and twenty-four of them being kings have been crowned in the Notre-Dame de Reims.  The original church was destroyed by a fire in 1211, but by May 6^th the Archbishop Aubry de Humbert laid the first stone for the present day church, it was completed by the end of the 13^th century. During the First World War 80% of the city of Reims was destroyed, but the church was badly damaged. During some excavation following the First World War in the crypt and baptistery the remains of the early cathedral were revealed. This was the spot where the Frankish King Clovis was baptized on Christmas Day 498 and the joining of Christianity with the Franks.  

In 1429 Charles VII was crowned the King of France in the Notre-Dame de Reims much to the thanks of Jeanne d’Arc who was told in a vision from God to drive the English out of France and help Charles become the King of France. There was not much appreciation from Charles following his coronation and within two short years the Maid of Orleans would be turned over to the English and tried for heresy and at the age of 19 she would be tied to a wooden stake and burnt alive. Upon her death the English exposed her burnt body to prove that she had not escaped and continued to burn her remains twice more until it was nothing but ashes. It is rumored that she was dumped into the River Seine but has never been proved. In 1920 the Catholic Church made her a saint; she is much loved in France and all over the world. There is a statue of her just outside of the Notre-Dame-de-Reims

During the First World War, on September 20, 1914 the church was hit by the Germans with shellfire destroying the scaffolding around the tower and setting the word structure on fire. Lead on the roof melted under the heat and poured onto the gargoyles. In 1919 the restoration began guided by architect Henri Deneux who would replace the wood framework with concrete. It was reopened in October 1937, just in time for the Second World War. Luckily Reims avoided any damage in WW2, much to the delight of its residents and champagne faithful. In 1945, Reims did see the arrival of General Dwight Eisenhower, Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force when they moved the headquarters there to further manage the surrender of the Germans. On the morning of May 7^th at what is now the Surrender Museum the Germans surrendered to General Eisenhower to which he said “I guess this calls for Champagne”

Since we are in Reims, we cannot forget about Champagne. Historically Champagne did not start out to look like it does today; it wouldn’t even resemble the amber bubbly delight. It was first was a pinkish still wine, made from Pinot Noir, that was first brought to the region and planted by the Romans in the 5^th century. When the Kings of France made the Notre-Dame-de-Reims the home of their coronations the local wine was on hand to toast the occasion.

Due to the cool climate the fermentation of the wine slowed and as the temperature would rise the yeast would begin to awaken and the fermentation would start again and would release carbon dioxide gas and create great pressure. Most of the early French wine bottles could not withstand the pressure and would explode in the cellars; wineries would lose entire harvests of wine and would begin to create the cellars on a slope so not to flood when the bottles exploded. The few bottles that would survive would contain bubbles, much to the dismay of the Champenois. By the early 18^th century the French monarchy started to develop a taste for the bubbles and the sparkling wine began to grow in popularity with French nobility. By the 19^th century the method champenoise, the process of making champagne was achieved by the house of Veueve Clicquot. Today the regions 87,000 acres that cover Reims and stage 5’s Eperney produce over 200 million bottles of Champagne a year. Remember it can only be called Champagne when it is made in Champagne.

In Reims there are many historic Champagne houses that names are known all over the world and dating back many years. Krug, dates back to 1843 and one of the most highly regarded. With a mix of pinot noir, chardonnay and meunier grapes and using 200 year old oak barrels, they still follow a very traditional method. Pommery can be traced back to 1858 when Alexandre Louis Pommery started the label but shortly after died. His wife Madame Pommery took over and would create over 11 miles of caves carved out of the hills by the Romans in the 2^nd century that could house over 20 million bottles of Champagne. Louis Pommery was quite the business woman and even held off the Prussians during the Franco-Prussian war. While trying to wall up her champagne caves Prince von Hohenlohe arrived and saw the tools. He talked with her and told her “not to worry, your champagne will not be touched” Every year on March 18^th,  Madame Pommery’s birthday, she gave all her staff the day off, she was so loved that the staff would send her roses, her favorite flower.  In 1890 on March 16^th they announced that the annual holiday would take place on March 17^th, one day early. Madame was very ill and was not expected to make it much longer but did not want the staff to miss their day off. On March 18, 1890 she died and was treated to what could resemble a state funeral. Over 20,000 people attended and followed her casket through the streets of Reims, covered with her beloved roses.  

Fricassee de Poulet au Champagne

(Sauteed chicken in Champagne Cream Sauce)

1 whole chicken

Salt and fresh ground white pepper to taste

2 Tablespoons butter

1 cup white pearl onions

2 cups white or cremini mushrooms

1 Tablespoon shallots, finely chopped

1 Tablespoon flour

Bouquet Garni of parsley, thyme & bay leaf

1 cup Champagne

½ cup heavy cream

 

Cut the chicken into 10 pieces, or pre cut individual pieces can also be used, just make sure they are still on the bone. Season with salt and pepper

 

In a large skillet big enough to hold all the chicken on one layer, melt butter over medium heat. Add chicken thighs and drumsticks first, skin side down and brown on all sides.

 

Remove all chicken and set aside, in same skillet add onions, mushrooms and shallots. Cook stirring for about 3 minutes. Add flour, blend well and cook for two more minutes. Add bouquet garni and Champagne and simmer for 10 minutes.  Turn pieces from time to time, when meat comes away from the bone easily it is done.

 

Add the cream and bring to a boil and blend well. Cover, remove from the heat and let rest for 5 minutes. Remove bouquet garni and check for seasoning.  Plate and serve.

 

 

Cookies aren’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of what to pair with Champagne but in Reims there is a lovely crisp cookie that is just perfect with a glass of bubbly. Le Biscuit Rose de Reims are light ladyfinger like cookies but with a crisp sugar dusted shell. Pink in color the meringue based cookie has a hint of strawberry taste to it.

 

In a cookbook filled with nothing but French cookie recipes I found Le Biscuit Rose de Reims, but needed a special mold. So I decided to just pipe them onto parchment, I have since found a mold and will make these again soon. They were delicious, slightly resembling a French macaron cookie.

 

Le Biscuit Rose de Reims

 

1 ½ oz fresh strawberries

1 tablespoon kirsch

4 ½ oz confectioners’ sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Red food coloring

3 ½ oz all-purpose flour

1 ¾ oz cornstarch

¼ teaspoon baking powder

Superfine sugar for decoration

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F

 

On a parchment lined baking sheet dust with corn starch

 

Clean strawberries and with the kirsch puree in a blender, strain through a fine sieve  Sift confectioners’ sugar and combine it to the strawberry puree, eggs, yolk and vanilla in mixer. Add a drop or two red food coloring to reinforce the strawberry color. Beat with a wire whip starting at low and gradually increasing to medium speed, until the batter is light and thick and forms slowly dissolving ribbons when dropped from the whip. Sift together the flour, cornstarch and baking powder and gently fold into batter.

 

Scoop the batter into pastry bag fitted with a #5 round tip and pipe onto parchment. Dust with superfine sugar and place into the oven. Cook for 13 to 14 minutes or until the edges brown slightly.

 

Bon Appétit!