July 16, 2010
Stage 12 Bourg-de-Peage to Mende
Just a few kilometers northeast of yesterdays finish town of Bourg-les-Valence is where the Tour starts today. Still in the Drome department with brief stops in the Ardeche, five quick kilometers in the Haute-Loire before ending in the Lozere department in the Languedoc-Roussillon region. This will all lead to what will be the final showdown in the Pyrenees that begin on Sunday.
The start town of Bourg-de-Peage, the village that owes its name to the nearby bridge over the River Isere. The bridge was built in the Middle Ages by Saint-Barnard de Romans Abbey and dates back to 1033. The canons began collecting a feudal duty called a “peage” (a toll) for every person, goods or animal that crossed the bridge. Over the decades the bridge was damaged by the rising and fast moving river. In the 17th century the tower with the arms of the town of Romans was destroyed and the arches were falling down and were replaced from time to time with a wooden shield. In the 18th century a full rebuilding of the bridge took place and was not completed until the next century. It continued to suffer more damage, in 1814, 1940 and again in 1944 when its second arch was destroyed. Still today the damage remains and can be seen. Bourg-de-Peage began the felt-hat trade in 1810 and continued on until 1929 when it reached its peak. Mossant was the largest employer in the hat trade in the region, hiring more than 1200 workers and making more than 2000 hats a day. Half of these hats were exported to the United States until 1998 when production ended
The town of Tain l’Hermitage is well known if you are a wine drinker and a fan of the Rhone style wines. The “capital” of the Hermitage wine region, Tain l’Hermitage sits near the right bank of the River Rhone and the region spans out from there. Given its AOC distinction in 1937 and encompassing over 345 acres the Hermitage AOC produces mostly red grapes, with maybe the most well known being Syrah and Roussanne. White grapes such as Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier are also produced in the region. Cultivated on steep slopes from a granite and argili-calicairous soil and shaped by the mistral winds of the Mediterranean. The rainfall and the warmer temperatures and sunny days along with the vegetation and Rhone basin create the amazing, strong wines of the Rhone Valley.
The Ardeche department is a mostly rural county and is the only one in France to not have a train station. The Ardeche is a green paradise with the Ardeche Gorges in the south perfect for kayakers and hikers, and the Mont Gerbier des Joncs where the River Loire begins.
Just on the opposite bank of the River Rhone sits the town of Tournon-sur-Rhone also known for its wine. In 1825 Europe’s first cable suspended bridge was built over the River Rhone and connecting Tournon-sur-Rhone to Tain l’Hermitage. But it is also the lovely Pont Grand stone bridge that was built between 1379 and 1583 over the River Doux in Tournon. Spanning 162 feet it was the largest arch bridge in the world before 1600. The Chateau de Ventadour that was built between the 15th & 16th century today holds a museum dedicated to life in the Rhone region and of course some history of the wine that has made the name so well known.
Le Mont Gerbier de Jonc is the large rock format that sits at the mouth of the River Loire. Rising from three springs the longest river in France begins at this eight million year old landmark. The second most visited spot in the Ardeche shoots up to 5,088 feet and separates the Loire and Thone basins.
The small village of Pradelles sits at the confluence of the three departments of Haute-Loire, Lozere and the Ardeche. Once surrounded by a wall the only thing that remains is a gate and towers. Dating back to the 13th & 14th century, the La Verdette gate and Tower Rechelix and Besset gate are still visible and listed as national monuments. It is the church and the statue atop it that is one of the most interesting stories. In 1512 in a meadow beside the hospital a statue of the Virgin Mary was discovered buried in the soil. The Notre-Dame-de-Pradelles church was built on that meadow and was the only building that survived a fire that destroyed area in 1586. On March 10, 1588 during the Wars of Religion as the Huguenot troops made their way through France pillaging everything in their path, arrived at the gates of Pradelles. They were defeated and turned away and the village was spared. The faithful followers attribute this luck to the Lady of Pradelles. During the French Revolution in 1793, revolutionaries threw her into a fire and she was partially damaged, the village had her fully restored and returned in 1802 and on July 18, 1869 she was placed atop the steeple of the Notre-Dame-de-Pradelles.
The finishing town of Mende is the capital of the Lozere department, one of the least populated departments in France. The imposing Gothic cathedral, Basilica Notre-Dame-et-Saint-Private de Mende towers above the town. Built in 1360 by Pope Urban V in the Gothic pre-Romanesque style and completed by the beginning of the 15th century, the belfries of the church were built in the 16th century. On Christmas night in 1579 during the massacre of Saint Bartholomew Captain Merle, an officer in the Huguenot army attacked Mende and blew up the spires and walls of the Cathedral leaving only the belfries and north walls. In 1599 under Bishop Heurtelou the cathedral was rebuilt with the addition of windows and rosette. Parts of the church would be destroyed again in 1793 during the Revolution and would be used as a prison.
Volaille des Gourmets Ardeche
Sauteed Chicken Ardeche
Whole Chicken cut up into 8 pieces
Salt and pepper
4 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons brandy
2 tomatoes peeled, seeded and diced
2 shallots diced
1 teaspoon paprika
1 cup dry white wine
1 sprig fresh tarragon or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon
3 tablespoons heavy cream
1 cup small white onions
1 cup mushrooms, cleaned and quartered
Season chicken with salt and pepper, in a large sauté pan melt butter and brown chicken on all sides. Remove chicken and pour in brandy. Add tomatoes, shallots, paprika, wine and tarragon and return chicken to the pan. Cover and simmer until chicken is cooked through about 30 minutes. Remove chicken to a plate and cover with tinfoil. Add cream to the pan, stir and cook for 3-4 minutes to just heat through.
While chicken is cooking, in a separate pan heat 2 tablespoons butter and add mushrooms, cook for 5 minutes, add onions and continue to cook until lightly cooked.
To serve, place the chicken over the sautéed onions and mushrooms. Pour sauce over the chicken and serve.
