Claudine, Oui c'est Francais

Galette des Rois

Did you know that the 12th day of Christmas was actually today January 5th? It is then marked by January 6th which is known as the Epiphany which celebrated the visit of the Magi or the three kinds to see Christ. And how is this celebrated in France and around the world? With a fine French pastry of course! La Galette des Rois translates to the "Kings Cake" or the Twelfth-Night cake and  can differ depending on where you are in France.   They date back to the 16th century, in the 17th century the priests of  Saint-Germain  tried to stop the practice of the cake saying it was part of a pagan ritual. It rose again in popularity until Louis XIV and the church considered it a pagan ritual again and an excuse to indulge and banned the practice. But the people can not be parted with the pastries for long, they decided to create la fete du bon voisinage or the neighborly relations day. And when the king or royalty sunk in popularity during the French Revolution is became the Gateau de L'Egality or the equality cake.

In the different regions of France you will find a different version of the Galette de Rois. In Paris and Northern France it is made of flaky puff pastry and filled with a dense layer of pastry creme with almond or frangiopan. In Southern France it is made from brioche and shaped like a crown. The Gateau des Rois de Bordeaux is also a yeast based dough with a hint of lemon rind  and the Gateau des rois de Limoux is much like the Bordeaux regions but decorated with candied citron.

Inside the cake there is a hidden lucky charm or une feve and was originally an actual bean, but with the popularity of the cake in the 18th century it was replaced to a small charm made of porcelain. It could be a tiny religious figure or baby Jesus or even a small Eiffel Tower that I stuck in mine. Whoever finds the charm gets to wear the crown and be King (or Queen) of the day. This reminds me of when I was a little girl and my great grandmother would always wrap up dimes and quarters in tin foil and hide them in any cake she made.

I took this as the perfect opportunity to make the wonderful French treat and while there are a few steps it comes together pretty easily, but you do have to plan ahead. Each thing can be made a day or so in advance so it makes it a easy to do weeknight item. I followed the Dorie Greenspan recipe in her book Paris Sweets and it turned out fantastic. The puff pastry is so light and delicate and the filling is rich and wonderful. Since there was just the two of us the charm was not found, but lets be honest. I think we know who the queen is everyday around here......

Bon Appetit

 

 

French Fridays with Dorie-Pommes Dauphinois

ok, so its actually French Saturday, but in my world, everyday is French day, this week I selected Pommes Dauphinois otherwise known as potato gratin. This one is right up my ally, it has a long history and is from a specific region of France and then it is covered in cheese, really a win win for everybody.

The Dauphine region of France is now known as the Rhone-Alpes region and is located in the southern area, above Provence. During the Roman Empire the Comte d'Albon, Guiguer le Vieux founded the Dauphine. The last descendant of the Comte Humbert II sold his land in the 14th Century to the King of France, with an agreement that the oldest son of the king should control the Dauphine. From then on the oldest son, the crown prince and successor to the crown was always known as the Dauphin.

The Dauphine area always plays a very important part in the annual Tour de France and of course my annual Tour de French cuisine when I follow the Tour de France with specific food of the area and town that they are in, and this year the town of Grenoble and of course what is the most popular location next to the Champs Elysees the Alpe d'Huez with its 21 switchbacks up the mountain.  These stages in the Rhone-Alpes always mean potatoes, cheese and cream, after all what tastes better in the winter months after a long day in the snow.

All though I have made this many many times, the recipe in Around my French Table was great, creamy and cheesy and of course I added a little bit extra cheese.

 

French Fridays with Dorie-Mustard Tart

Week number two and we are in the full swing of things, this week it is "Gerard's Mustard Tart" on the menu.  The key ingredient of the tart is what you might guess, mustard and more specifically French mustard. There is a not so little spot in France that you may have heard of before, Dijon. Located in the Burgundy region and surrounded by some of the most famous of all French dishes, Boeuf Bourginon, Gougeres and (my favorite) Esacargot all come from the area surrounding Dijon.

The Mustard Tart has a combination of both Dijon mustard and a grainy French mustard and gives the slightest hint of flavor and paired with the carrots and leeks it is a great light lunch or paired with a salad for dinner. For the crust I decided to use my favorite French tart ring for a more rustic look instead of the traditional ruffled tart pan and used a classic Pate Brisee for the crust.

I highly recommend it for anybody and can't wait for the next week

See all the other French Fridays peeps and their tart here

French Fridays with Dorie: Gougères

It's the inaugural week of French Fridays with Dorie and the celebration of her new cookbook, Around My French Table. Over 500 pages of traditional and not so traditional French recipes it is a must for any French food fanatic or cookbook lover, so pick one up today! Dorie Greenspan is an American living in Paris, but besides that very enviable title she is also a James Beard award winning cookbook author.

The first recipe is the Gougère, the perfect bite of puffy dough with a hint of cheese that just the thought of one will make your mouth water. I have made these many many times and is a staple for any gathering at my house, so of course I welcome an excuse to make some again.

The basis of the Gougère is the Pâte à Choux, a versatile dough that is used for desserts like the crowd pleasing Croquembouche. Choux in French translates to cabbage and was given the name after the dough was used to make rolls that resembled the cabbage. The Gougère is made using the same dough but with the addition of cheese, and as we all know, cheese makes everything better!

Dorie's recipe calls for the little pillows of goodness be dropped and with spoons, but I prefer to pipe them for a cleaner more polished look.

 

Visit even more of the French Friday peep and the amazing Gougères here

Poulet en Crapaudine a la Vinaigrette d'Echalote

 Patrica Wells Vegetable Harvest is a fantastic cookbook filled with more then just Vegetables.One of the most searched for recipes is the Poulet en Crapaudine a la Vinaigrette d'Echalote or Grilled Chicken with Shallot Vinaigrette. It was very easy and fast to make. You can alter it to make in the oven under the broiler. Just place the chicken on a roasting pan skin side up under the broiler for 15 minutes, then flip and another 15 minutes.

Meanwhile make vinaigrette with 1/2 cup Walnut oil, 2 Tablespoons Lemon juice, 12 sliced shallots and good quality sea salt. Place the finished chicken on the plate and spoon the vinaigrette and shallots over, cover with aluminum foil and let rest for 15 minutes....

serve and eat, it was excellent and very flavorful 

Bon Appetit!

Bon Appetit!

Tour du Limousin: Clafoutis au bacon et au gruyere

Since 1968 the Tour du Limousin has run in mid August through the mostly rural region of France, the Limousin.  This year on Tuesday August 17^th the four day tour starts in the famous city of Limoges and then will return to finish the tour there on Friday, August 20^th.  Sitting in the heart of France surrounded by the mountains of the Massif Central and north of the Midi-Pyrenees and Aquitaine and Auvergne Limousin covers just 3% of the area of France and is the second least populous region of France only behind Corsica. The landscape of Limousin is covered with oak and chestnut trees and rivers that include the Dordogne, Creuse and Cher.  Named after the Gallic tribe Lemovici that was conquered by the Romans in 49 B.C.  The area became part of the Aquitaine in 27 B.C. and in 1152 when Eleanor of Aquitaine married Henry Plantagenet who was crowned King Henry II of England in 1154 the Aquitaine fell under the control of the English and remained until early 13^th century. During the Hundred Years War it was lost to the English again but in 1370 it was returned to the French and In 1607 the French King Henry IV united the region to France once and for all.

The first stage of the Tour du Limousin has been the shortest for most of the past twenty years but this year it will be the longest at 120 miles.  It starts out rather easy for the first 30 or so miles and passes through the small village of Saint-Pardoux. Named after Pardoux a peasant’s son who set fire to an old chestnut tree causing it to fall on him and causing him to lose his sight. He became a hermit and found solace in God, it wasn’t long before people started coming to him looking for cures to their problems as it was spreading that he had a gift to heal people. In 670 the Count of Limoges was setting up a monastery in Gueret and asked Pardoux to be the priest. He died in October 737

Near the Vallee de la Creuse and the Foret de Chabrieres is the town of Gueret.  The count of Lantaire founded a monastery here in the 8^th century, located at the base of the Grandcher hill. Gueret became the capital of the county of La March in 1514 and has been the administrative center ever since. The nearby Foret de Chabrieres has an animal park where you can see wolves as well be there for feeding time at 4pm. I think I would maybe avoid the feeding time, but I am pretty sure that they must have a fence between you and the wolves.

The finishing town of Boussac sits on the right bank of the Petite Creuse a tributary of the River Creuse and in the northern most edge of the Limousin region. Overlooking the town and River Creuse is the Chateau de Boussac. First built in the 15^th century it went through some renovations in the 16^th and 17^th but by the end of the 18^th century it was set to be demolished. In April of 1794 it was set to be dismantled by a contractor for $13,000 and began to tear down the towers and gates, filled the ditches surrounding and left only the main building.  In 1837 it was sold to the department by the Countess of Ribereix. In 1965 it was purchased by a private couple the Blondeau’s who began to restore it back to its stately form.  

In the guard room of the Chateau the famous tapestries “The Lady and the Unicorn” or La Dame a la licorne. Woven in Flanders and made of wool and silk between 1484 and 1500. Five of the six tapestries depict each of the five senses; sight, hearing, taste, smell and touch, but each one has a unicorn, lion and noble lady on them. They were discovered within the Chateau in 1841 and were moved to the Musee de Cluny of Paris in 1882 where they still are today. The images have been reproduced many times over the years and can even be seen in the Harry Potter films in the Gryffindor common room.

One of the most famous dishes in Limousin is the Clafoutis. A dessert that is normally made with cherries and then a pudding like batter pored over and baked. We will get to that later in the Tour but first I we will have a savory version. I found one online and altered the cheese a bit and added more bacon. It is basically a crustless quiche and was fantastic. Great for a brunch or lunch or pair it with a salad for a light dinner.

Clafoutis au bacon et au gruyere

4 eggs

¾ cup whipping cream

½ cup ricotta

7-8 slices bacon cut into ½ pieces

½ gruyere cheese, grated

¼ cup flour

½ cup milk

Salt and pepper

 

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F

In a sauté pan cook the bacon until browned and crispy, drain on paper towel and let cool. Add the grated gruyere and set aside.

In a mixing bowl whisk the eggs, whipping cream and ricotta until smooth and ricotta is incorporated. Add the flour and whisk until combined. Pour in the milk and continue to whisk until smooth, season with salt and pepper.

In a 9 inch pie plate arrange the bacon and cheese so evenly distributed and pour in egg mixture slowly.

Bake in the oven for 35-45 minutes until puffy and golden brown. Let stand for 5 minutes so it is easier to cut and serve.

Bon Appétit!

Paris-Correze stage 2 Salmon en Croute

The Paris-Correze race second and final stage ends today, August 5^th in the Correze town of Chaumeil. Correze is department of the Limousin region that is more known for its town of Limoges than any other town. Limoges brings to mind one thing with me, tiny boxes and china. It is the white Kaolin clay found in the 18^th century in Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche just outside of Limoges that is used as the base of Limoges china. Limoges porcelain has a recipe of 50% Kaolin clay, 25% feldspar and 25% quartz and gives it the extreme whiteness and translucence and what gave Limoges its high prestige and value it has earned.  Limoges also has a history of making another piece of art, enamels and cloisonné’s.  Created by soldering thin pieces of metal to a base to outline a design and normally done on gold which worked better then on copper. Painted enamels are created by painting directly on the enamel that covers a copper plate.  The Musee Municipal de l’Eveche-Musee de l’Email has examples of Limoges enamels dating back to the 12^th century.

The start town of Malemort-sur-Correze is better known for its battle than anything else. On April 21, 1177 the Battle of Malelmort was fought between the army of Richard the Lion-hearted and the townspeople of Malemort-sur-Correze. William of Cambrai and his mercenaries the Brabancon were killed and the army of Lobar the Wolf and Viscount of Turenne attacked the nearby town of Segur and demolished it.

The finishing town of Chaumeil is a very small town of less than two hundred people that is the capital of les Monedieres. The Monedieres Massif (mountains) extends to the River Correze and the edge of the Montagne Limousine. The riders would have passed through the Cirque de Freysselines, the natural amphitheatre that sits within the small village of Freysselines. Before they can reach the finish the will need to pass through La Croix-sous-l’Arbre and a slight climb up the small hill of Col des Geants before reaching Chaumeil. The slate roofs and granite houses that surround the 15^th century church make a perfect finish for a summer two day stage race through the center of France.

The many rivers of the area have over time been known for their salmon; unfortunately today that is not the case. With riverbeds that have dried up or become more shallow the supply is not what it used to be. One of the best things about living in the northwest is that we have plenty of salmon and is hands down one of my favorite foods and could eat it every day. I was inspired by an Anne Willan recipe for Tourte de Saumon to make a Salmon en Croute but a bit different and very simple compared to hers. Anne’s recipe called for making a mousse with half of the salmon and I was pretty sure that was not going to go over very well so I simplified it and it can be made any night of the week.

Salmon en Croute

Puff Pastry (you can find it in your freezer section; Pepperidge Farms makes a great one)

3 Tablespoons butter

1 pound mushrooms

3 cloves of garlic, chopped

Salt and pepper

1 pound salmon, skin and bones removed

Herb Sauce

½ cup butter cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon water

Juice of ½ lemon

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped dill

In a large sauté pan melt butter and add cleaned and dice the mushrooms. Cook over medium heat until browned and liquid has evaporated; add chopped garlic and mix to combine, season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and strain to get any remaining liquid out and let it cool slightly.

For the Salmon, if the skin is on when you purchase it the easiest and cleanest way to remove it is in a hot pan. You can use the same pan that you cooked the mushrooms in, just place the salmon in, skin side down and leave it for 30 seconds. Take it out and place on a cutting board flesh side down. Using the edge of a fork the skin will easily scrape right off.

Roll out a sheet of the puff pastry large enough to envelop the salmon, about 12 x16. In the center of the sheet place the mushrooms and then top with the salmon. Season with salt and pepper and fold the sides around. You can seal any overlapping edges with some egg wash, this will keep it together. When it is all folded brush with more egg wash and then place in refrigerator for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F, place the salmon in on a baking sheet in the center of the oven and cook for 40 minutes or until the pastry is lightly browned.

During the last 10 minutes of cooking start the sauce. In a small saucepan add water, lemon juice and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Gradually add butter cubes and whisk to combine until fully melted and smooth. This will thicken the sauce at the same time, but be careful not to add the butter in all at once. Stir in chopped dill and more lemon juice if desired. Serve over hot salmon and enjoy!

Bon Appétit!

 

Tour de French Cuisine Stage 18 Salies-de-Bearn to Bordeaux

July 23, 2010

Stage 18 Salies-de-Bearn to Bordeaux

After four days in the high Pyrenees it is a flat straight stage on the agenda today. This is one for the gutsy sprinters that have survived the mountains for just these moments.  Only one more stage after today separates us from the end of the 2010 Tour de France and the Champs Elysees. I can barely write those words, be strong, be strong! A stage like todays into Bordeaux won’t do much to the overall standings of the top finishers, but they do need to be aware to not lose any time. Saturday will be the Individual Time Trial, the race against the clock will be the final test. Andy Schleck isn’t as good at the TT’s but Contador could make a mistake, it will be one to watch.

The starting town of Salies-de-Bearn, has seen the Tour de France only once before, in 1939.  Known as the Salt City, it dates back to the Middle Ages and sitting on a geological salt water source that contains ten times the amount of salt as there normally is in the nearby Atlantic Ocean.  The great legend of the town dates back to the 17^th century when some local boar hunters wounded a boar that was able to run off into a nearby swamp where he would meet his end. After a few days the hunters found him and was amazed at how preserved his carcass was and realized the boar was immersed in very salty water.  Finding salt during these times was like finding a diamond mind. You’ve heard the phrase “worth one’s salt” before, during Roman times it is said that solders were paid in salt and it is also the basis of the word salary. The town was quickly populated and a group of local dignitaries set up a group known as the Salty Fountain Neighbors that own and manage the salt waters and local thermal baths and still do so to this day.

If you watched the Tour today you will notice that a lot of the 123 miles passed through the forest. Known as La forêt des Landes stretches out through three departments, Landes, Gironde and Lot et Garonne. The majority of the trees are tall pines that began to be planted in the 18^th century to help stop the erosion caused by the marshes and moving sand dunes. On December 26 & 27, 1999 two cyclones named Lothar and Martin blew through Europe and France with winds up to 90miles per hour and destroyed a large number of the trees in the forest. On January 24, 2009 with the wounds of Lothar and Martin still so fresh, cyclone Klaus raged through at 100miles per hour and destroyed the trees again.

Sabres is the village within the forest and until the 19^th century was sitting atop the moving dunes until they were stabilized by the planting of the pines. One of the few villages that dates before the trees were planted is home to the Eco-Musee de Marqueze. The open aired museum shows what it was like to live in the area in the 19^th century with examples of the traditional buildings, bread making and the shepherds on their stilts and the stilt making. The shepherds would stand on the stilts in the field so they can watch over their flock on the large vast of land, now covered with pine trees.

The stage finishes in Bordeaux but let’s save that for tomorrow when the Time Trial starts in Bordeaux and goes past the most famous names in wine, in the world.

Although Bordeaux is known for its wine, it does not have its own cuisine like Burgundy does. Burgundy may have the most popular French cuisine alongside Provence but Bordeaux is lumped into the Gastronomy of the Southwest. With the location near the ocean the Gascons have discovered a liking of the anchovy and with lamb and garlic it is known as the agent de marriage. This recipe for Lamb or Gigot as it is known in France has very few ingredients as you can see but is very flavorful and the anchovies give it an extra zest of amazing flavor. One pound of garlic may seem like you are trying to fend of vampires but it will cook down and is not overpower full at all.

La Gasconnade Gigot

1 leg lamb 4 to 5 pounds

12 anchovy fillets

1 lb. Garlic

¾ cup beef bouillon

Wash off the lamb, dry and cut little slits all over the top. Slice 5 or 6 cloves of garlic into thin pieces and slide them into the slits of the lamb. If your lamb is tied at all, cut off and discard. Lay the anchovies fillets across the top of the roast. During the cooking they will melt over the meat and give it the same effect as if it were roasted revolving on a spit. Cook the lamb in a pre-heated oven, 450 F for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 F. Allow to cook for 15 minutes per pound from start to finish. While the lamb is cooking, peel the rest of the garlic and blanch in boiling water until the cloves are almost cooking, then throw them into cold water for 20 seconds and drain. Heat the bouillon in a saucepan, add any pan juices and the garlic, and reduce the sauce until it is nearly a puree. Serve as a garnish to the gigot.

What goes better with a lovely roast then some potatoes and since I have loads of duck fat lying around from the Confit it was an easy choice. Les Pommes an l’Echirlete or Potatoes in goose fat is a very traditional recipe of the Dordogne.

Les Pommes an l’Echirlete

2 pounds small new potatoes or Yukon golds

2 ½ cups chicken broth

2 cloves of garlic chopped

3 tablespoons duck fat

Salt and pepper

Peler les pommes de terre, et les couper en cubes de trois centimètres de côté environ.Peel the potatoes and slice in half or quarters depending on the size, they should be about the size of an unshelled walnut.  Parboil potatoes in a pan with chicken broth and garlic cloves until just tender about 20 minutes.

Bien égoutter les pommes de terre, vider l'eau, faire fondre dans la sauteuse la graisse de canard (en récupérant par exemple celle d'un confit), et y faire dorer les pommes de terre.In a large skillet heat the duck fat until melted and add the potatoes and garlic, gently sauté turning from time to time until nicely browned all over this may take up to 30 minutes, don’t turn the heat to high or they will burn. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

 Bon Appétit!

Tour de French Cuisine, stage 17 Pau to Col du Tourmalet

July 22, 2010

Stage 17 Pau to Col du Tourmalet

Since October 14, 2009 when the official 2010 route was announced it has been all about the Tourmalet, Pyrenees and the 100^th anniversary of it being a part of the Tour de France. The first Tour took place in 1903 but from 1915 to 1918 and again from1940 to 1946 the years that fell during the First and Second World War the Tour was halted and did not run. But let’s back up a minute and see how the whole thing started. Newspaper editor Henri Desgrange of Le Auto-Velo newspaper needed an idea to boost circulation and it was over lunch with Victor Goddet their accountant and journalist Geo Lefevre at the Zimmer Madrid restaurant on the Boulevard Montmartre that Geo came up with an idea. On November 20, 1902 his idea was “What about a Tour de France in several stages with rest days”

On January 19, 1903 the front page of the now named L’Auto headline said “the Tour de France, the greatest cycle race in the world” and printed on yellow paper. The first race in 1903 was from July 1^st to July 18^th and was only 6 stages and was 1,508 miles. The route was: July 1^st: Paris-Lyon, July 5^th: Lyon to Marseille, July 8: Marseille to Toulouse, July 12^th: Toulouse to Bordeaux, July 13^th Bordeaux to Nantes and finally July 18^th: Nantes to Paris. It started with 59 riders but only 20 or so riders would finish in Paris. Maurice Garin a friend of Henri Desgrange would go on to win the first Tour de France with a finishing time of 94 hours 33 minutes and 14 seconds. He would go on to win the 1904 Tour as well but would be stripped of the title for cheating. The exact reason is lost in time but at that time fans would topple trees, throw things and attack riders as well as other riders would puncture tires and poison fellow riders. He was also under suspicion of taking a train to one of the finish towns as well.

The 1910 Tour is what the organizers are celebrating this year; it was the first year that Pyrenees would be included even before the addition of the Alps. The three previous tour routes were very similar and the architect of the route, Adolphe Steines decided they should include the Pyrenees for 1910. Henri Desgrange at first was very reluctant but decided to send Steines to the southern mountain range for some recon and to see if the mountains were even passable. In late January 1910 he set off and took a car up the Tourmalet, greeted by snow the car could not get through any farther so he took off on foot. Hiking through the night and falling into a ravine where he would remain until a search party located him and pulled him out. The following day he sent a message onto Desgrange “Have crossed the Tourmalet on foot, road passable to vehicle, no snow” Not exactly a truthful and accurate description but it was announced that the Pyrenees would be included in the 1910 Tour de France. On July 10, 1910 the Peloton would take off into the uncharted territory of the Tourmalet. Octava Lapize of France would reach the summit of the Tourmalet first with fellow countryman Gustave Garrigou close behind and the only one that would make it to the top staying on his bike the entire climb. It wasn’t over yet, they still had the Col d’Aubisque, Soulor, Tortes. Octavia Lapize had to walk and carry his bike at one point and Gustave Garrigou fell and at the end Lapize yelled out to the organizers “You’re assassins, all of you! You can’t ask such things of mere mortals. I’ve had enough!”

Things are much different today than they were in 1910. For one thing the bikes have more than the one gear then they had back then and the riders do not have to carry the extra tire tubes on their back. But one thing remains the same one hundred years later, the excitement and action that happens in these high southern peeks is always a must see. Because of the success with the Pyrenees, in 1911 the Alps would be added.

They route for today is almost the same as it was on stage 16, just the opposite direction and ending at the summit of the Tourmalet.  But it will start in the city of Pau, one of the loveliest towns on the edge of the Pyrenees. Deep in French aristocratic history the Chateau de Pau located in the center of the city at the end of the Pont Nemours and dates back to the 14^th century in its current form. The Renaissance style started by Gaston Phoebus when he began the construction of a wall around the city and the foundation of the Chateau was laid. In 1512 the court of Navarre altered the chateau and became the residence of Henri d’Albret and Margauerite de Navarre.  In 1533 their daughter Jeanne d’Albert was pregnant with a son with her husband Antoine de Bourbon, Duke of Vendome, head of the house of Bourbon. Her son would be the heir to the crown and Jeanne d’Albert felt it important that her son be born in Pau, the capital of the Bearn region. She made it to Pau on December 3, 1533 and ten days later gave birth to the future King of France Henry IV. The famous legend says that upon his birth his grandfather Henri II wanted his lips “rubbed with a clove of garlic and then moistened with the local Jurancon wine to make sure he started out life as a proper Gascon”  After he was born and rubbed with garlic a cradle could not be found, so he was laid into a large tortoise shell which he seemed to take quite a liking to.  Later during the Revolutionary war a local Gascon saved the shell by replacing it with another one and hiding the original.  Today the original can be seen within the museum along with a banner with the royal arms of France and Navarre and the helmet of Henry IV.

Louis XIII stayed in the Chateau during the conquest of Bearn and took most of the furnishing in the Chateau with him back to Paris. Marie Antoinette would spend time at the Chateau in the summers and created a small garden. It would serve as a royal prison for many years until Louis-Philipe began restoration in the 1830’s and continued through Napoleon III who liked to visit from Paris at the height of the resorts in the area. Today the Chateau is a national museum and piece of its history and has been painstakingly restored to appear as it did so long ago with period furnishing, tapestries and statues.

If there is one thing the Southwest of France is known for and used as just about every image of the place it is duck. Either as the luxurious Foie Gras or Confit it should be added to the flag of the area. For Stage 14 I made Cassoulet and for that Confit d’Oie. It was the first time I made it and it was very simple and took very little active time, mostly just putting it together and letting it rest in the refrigerator and then very slowly cooked in the oven. It was at the least, out of this world, the flavor is so rich and delicate. There are many ways to serve the Confit but one of the simplest and preferred is on a bed of greens with light vinaigrette. I made this very simple meal and I may need an intervention to keep me from licking the plate. This is one of the best French vinaigrettes, make the entire batch and it keeps in the refrigerator for days and is one of those things you should never by at the store since it is so simple and gratifying.

 French Vinaigrette

 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

 1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic

 3 tablespoons champagne vinegar

 Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

 1/2 cup good olive oil

 In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, garlic, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2

teaspoon pepper. While whisking, slowly add the olive oil until the vinaigrette is emulsified.

 Place the salad greens in a medium bowl and add enough dressing to moisten.  Sprinkle with  a little extra salt and pepper, if desired, and serve immediately.

 Confit of Duck

Confit is a French cooking term that means “cooking in its own fat and preserved completely immersed in the same fat to keep it from coming into contact with the air”  The duck is first placed in a flat dish on a bed of salt, garlic, shallots and thyme and covered for up to two days in the refrigerator untouched. After that any remaining salt it brushed off and in a heavy Le Creuset casserole large enough for the duck to lay in a single layer covered with melted rendered duck fat and slow cooked up to 3 hours in a 225 degree oven or until the meat pulls away from the bones easily.  There is a lot of time that goes into it but very little active time. After it is cooked it can be kept in the refrigerator immersed in its own duck fat for several weeks.

The ingredients needed are:

4 tablespoons salt

5 garlic cloves, smashed

1 shallot peeled and diced

6 sprigs of thyme

Coarsely ground black pepper

4 duck legs and thighs

4 cups of rendered duck fat (can be found at whole foods or ethnic markets)

Toss lettuce with a small amount of vinaigrette, you can add more later. Top with a Duck leg and enjoy. Serve with slices of French baguette!

Bon Appétit!

Stage 6, TdF Cuisine Boeuf Bourguignon et Escargot

July 9, 2010

Stage 6- Montargis to Gueugnon

Leaving Montargis, the same town they finished in yesterday, the town called the “Venice of Gatinais” for its many canals and rivers that flow through the town. With 131 road and foot bridges it is hard to go very far without realizing exactly why it is given the nickname of Venice. Montargis sits less than 70 miles from Paris, but the Tour de France cyclist still  have more than 1,636 miles to complete before they can make it to the shadows of the Arc de Triomphe. So we continue on.

The French artist Anne-Louis Girodet de Roussy-Trioson was born in Montargis in 1767. After going to school to study architecture he decided to become a painter and became a student of the French Jacques-Louis David, a Neoclassical painter. David later was involved in painting historical moments and sketched the very famous last drawing of Marie Antoinette before she was led off to the scaffolding. Girodet was involved in the Romantic movement of the mid to late 18^th century. He became well known for his painting of the Napoleon family, including the beautiful one of Hortense de Beauharnais, step-daughter of Napoleon and daughter of Josephine.  Today the Musee Girodet in Montargis is dedicated to the hometown painter and has more the 25 of his pieces on view.

Just outside of Montargis and sitting on the same Canal de Briare & Canal de Loing,  Chatillon-Coligny. The small medieval village was once home to a 12^th century chateau that was destroyed by the English during the Hundred Year War in 1359. The chateau was rebuilt by 1376 with an addition of a large wall that would include three gates and five towers and is still standing today. The large houses dated to the 17^th and 18^th century reflects the height of the towns that were along the Canal’s. One of the oldest canals in France the Canal de Briare is over 35 miles long and runs from Briare to Buges. Upon its completion in 1642 it began to carry barges of wine, timber, coal and iron onto Paris. Today it is mostly used as a leisurely pleasure cruise, the perfect way to take in the region.

The Chateau de Saint-Fargeau has been a part of the town since it was built in 980. It was seized in 1411 by the English in the Hundred Year War and then in 1450 was purchased by Jacque Coeuer where he had it rebuilt in 1453.  In 1652, Anne-Marie Louise d’Orléans, the Grande Mademoiselle first cousin of king Louis XIV, was exiled for five years because of her stance during “la Fronde” (cival war). She settled in the Castle of Saint Fargeau where she hired the architect Le Vau to decorate the interior.  In 1713 the family of Louis-Michel Le Peletier purchased the castle. In January 1793 a vote was taken to decide what they would do with the King Louis XVI, it is said that it came down to a vote of 361 to 360 and the deciding vote was cast by Le Peletier and the King was sentenced to death by guillotine.  The rumor of his vote spread quickly among the Royalist and the day before the king was to die, Louis-Michel Le Peletier was assassinated in a restaurant at the Palais Royal.

The finish town of Geugnon is seeing the caravan of the Tour de France for the first time. Sitting on the edge of the Burgundy region is more famous for its football team and its steel plant. The stainless steel plant, Les Forges, dates back to 1724 would eventually become a world leader in steel production. Passing through many hands of ownership, the plant began to thrive. Today with the updated technology it has become the world’s top producing steel company.

The Burgundy region may have the most recognizable cuisine, at least items that almost everybody can say they have at least tried one of them. Curnonsky said “there are many gastronomic paradises in France, but there is a paradise of paradises-Burgundy”   Of course the most famous, may be Boeuf a la Bourguignonne which basically a beef stew with bacon, onions and mushrooms slow cooked in red wine. It is a rather inexpensive meal to make and can be made in large quantities and made in advance, as it just gets better and better as it sits. I went to the mother of all French cooking Julia Child for the recipe and altered it a bit to fit the time I needed to make it. I call it:

Boeuf Bourguignon jeuner acheminet (fast forward)

Adapted from "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" by Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck (Alfred A. Knopf, 1961)

Time: About 3 hours (normally 5 to 6 hours)

One 6-ounce piece of chunk bacon or 6 or 7 strips of bacon

3 ½ tablespoons olive oil

3 pounds lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes

1 sliced carrot

1 sliced onion

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons flour

3 cups full-bodied, young red wine (like Beaujolais, Cotes du Rhone or Burgundy)

2 ½ to 3 ½ cups brown beef stock

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 cloves mashed garlic

½ teaspoon thyme

A crumbled bay leaf

18 to 24 small white onions

3 ½ tablespoons butter

Herb bouquet (4 parsley sprigs, one-half bay leaf, one-quarter teaspoon thyme, tied in cheesecloth)

1 pound quartered fresh mushrooms.

1. Remove bacon rind and cut into lardons (sticks ¼-inch thick and 1 ½ inches long). Simmer rind and lardons for 10 minutes in 1 ½ quarts water. Drain and dry.

2. Preheat oven to 450 degrees.

3. Sauté lardons in 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a flameproof casserole over moderate heat for 2 to 3 minutes to brown lightly. Remove to a side dish with a slotted spoon.

4. Dry beef in paper towels; it will not brown if it is damp. Heat fat in casserole until almost smoking. Add beef, a few pieces at a time, and sauté until nicely browned on all sides. Add it to the lardons.

5. In the same fat, brown the sliced vegetables. Pour out the excess fat. Return the beef and bacon to the casserole and toss with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Then sprinkle on the flour and toss again to coat the beef lightly. Set casserole uncovered in middle position of preheated oven for 4 minutes. Toss the meat again and return to oven for 4 minutes (this browns the flour and coves the meat with a light crust). Remove casserole and turn oven down to 375 degrees.

6. Stir in wine and 2 to 3 cups stock, just enough so that the meat is barely covered. Add the tomato paste, garlic, herbs and bacon rind and small onions. Cover casserole and set in lower third of oven. Regulate heat so that liquid simmers very slowly for 2 hours. Turn up the heat to 415 degrees and continue to cook until the meat is tender and a fork pierces it easily about 45 minutes to an hour more.

7. While the beef is cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Heat 1 ½ tablespoons butter with one and one-half tablespoons of the oil until bubbling in a skillet. Add mushrooms and sauté over moderate heat for about 10 minutes, rolling them so they will brown as evenly as possible8. Wipe out skillet and heat remaining oil and butter over high heat. As soon as you see butter has begun to subside, indicating it is hot enough, add mushrooms. Toss and shake pan for 4 to 5 minutes. As soon as they have begun to brown lightly, remove from heat.

9. When the meat is tender, pour the contents of the casserole into a sieve set over a saucepan. Wash out the casserole and return the beef and lardons to it. Distribute the cooked onions and mushrooms on top. Skim fat off sauce in saucepan. Simmer sauce for a minute or 2, skimming off additional fat as it rises. You should have about 2 ½ cups of sauce thick enough to coat a spoon lightly. If too thin, boil it down rapidly. If too thick, mix in a few tablespoons stock. Taste carefully for seasoning. Pour sauce over meat and vegetables. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, basting the meat and vegetables with the sauce several times. Serve in casserole, or arrange stew on a platter surrounded with potatoes, noodles or rice, and decorated with parsley.

 

Another dish that is synonymous with the Burgundy region is Escargot. In French escargot literally means snail and I know some people may freak out at the thought of eating a snail, but you really must try it. Drenched in butter, garlic and parsley these little tiny morsels are fantastic. I was just a child when I first tried escargot in a small French restaurant near the a town we grew up in and then continued to love it as I was in high school where I would frequently have it at a favorite restaurant. 

Escargot a La Bourguignonne

4 oz butter, at room temperature

¼ c Finely chopped parsley

1 head of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped

1 shallot, sliced

½ cup white wine

24 Canned French snails

24 Snail shells

1. In a sauté pan, combine the shallots, wine and snails and bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

2. Combine the parsley and garlic in the bowl of a food processor and pulse to blend well, add butter and pulse until it is a smooth green paste. Season with salt & pepper.

3.Turn on the broiler and place rack in the middle of the oven

4. Place a snail in each shell and fill the cavity with the seasoned butter. Place on a baking pan and broil until the butter is melted. Serve hot and then slop up all the butter and garlic goodness with slices of baguette.

Bon Appétit!