Claudine, Oui c'est Francais

Paris-Correze stage 2 Salmon en Croute

The Paris-Correze race second and final stage ends today, August 5^th in the Correze town of Chaumeil. Correze is department of the Limousin region that is more known for its town of Limoges than any other town. Limoges brings to mind one thing with me, tiny boxes and china. It is the white Kaolin clay found in the 18^th century in Saint-Yrieix-la-Perche just outside of Limoges that is used as the base of Limoges china. Limoges porcelain has a recipe of 50% Kaolin clay, 25% feldspar and 25% quartz and gives it the extreme whiteness and translucence and what gave Limoges its high prestige and value it has earned.  Limoges also has a history of making another piece of art, enamels and cloisonné’s.  Created by soldering thin pieces of metal to a base to outline a design and normally done on gold which worked better then on copper. Painted enamels are created by painting directly on the enamel that covers a copper plate.  The Musee Municipal de l’Eveche-Musee de l’Email has examples of Limoges enamels dating back to the 12^th century.

The start town of Malemort-sur-Correze is better known for its battle than anything else. On April 21, 1177 the Battle of Malelmort was fought between the army of Richard the Lion-hearted and the townspeople of Malemort-sur-Correze. William of Cambrai and his mercenaries the Brabancon were killed and the army of Lobar the Wolf and Viscount of Turenne attacked the nearby town of Segur and demolished it.

The finishing town of Chaumeil is a very small town of less than two hundred people that is the capital of les Monedieres. The Monedieres Massif (mountains) extends to the River Correze and the edge of the Montagne Limousine. The riders would have passed through the Cirque de Freysselines, the natural amphitheatre that sits within the small village of Freysselines. Before they can reach the finish the will need to pass through La Croix-sous-l’Arbre and a slight climb up the small hill of Col des Geants before reaching Chaumeil. The slate roofs and granite houses that surround the 15^th century church make a perfect finish for a summer two day stage race through the center of France.

The many rivers of the area have over time been known for their salmon; unfortunately today that is not the case. With riverbeds that have dried up or become more shallow the supply is not what it used to be. One of the best things about living in the northwest is that we have plenty of salmon and is hands down one of my favorite foods and could eat it every day. I was inspired by an Anne Willan recipe for Tourte de Saumon to make a Salmon en Croute but a bit different and very simple compared to hers. Anne’s recipe called for making a mousse with half of the salmon and I was pretty sure that was not going to go over very well so I simplified it and it can be made any night of the week.

Salmon en Croute

Puff Pastry (you can find it in your freezer section; Pepperidge Farms makes a great one)

3 Tablespoons butter

1 pound mushrooms

3 cloves of garlic, chopped

Salt and pepper

1 pound salmon, skin and bones removed

Herb Sauce

½ cup butter cut into small cubes

1 tablespoon water

Juice of ½ lemon

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon chopped dill

In a large sauté pan melt butter and add cleaned and dice the mushrooms. Cook over medium heat until browned and liquid has evaporated; add chopped garlic and mix to combine, season with salt and pepper. Remove from heat and strain to get any remaining liquid out and let it cool slightly.

For the Salmon, if the skin is on when you purchase it the easiest and cleanest way to remove it is in a hot pan. You can use the same pan that you cooked the mushrooms in, just place the salmon in, skin side down and leave it for 30 seconds. Take it out and place on a cutting board flesh side down. Using the edge of a fork the skin will easily scrape right off.

Roll out a sheet of the puff pastry large enough to envelop the salmon, about 12 x16. In the center of the sheet place the mushrooms and then top with the salmon. Season with salt and pepper and fold the sides around. You can seal any overlapping edges with some egg wash, this will keep it together. When it is all folded brush with more egg wash and then place in refrigerator for 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F, place the salmon in on a baking sheet in the center of the oven and cook for 40 minutes or until the pastry is lightly browned.

During the last 10 minutes of cooking start the sauce. In a small saucepan add water, lemon juice and salt and pepper and bring to a boil. Gradually add butter cubes and whisk to combine until fully melted and smooth. This will thicken the sauce at the same time, but be careful not to add the butter in all at once. Stir in chopped dill and more lemon juice if desired. Serve over hot salmon and enjoy!

Bon Appétit!

 

Paris-Correze stage 1: Asperges Et Champignons a la Creme D'Estagon

The Paris-Correze cycling race has been running through the Centre region of France for ten years now. First imagined by French cycling great Laurent Fignon and Correze native Max Mamers as one of the first races in more than twenty years created to highlight national and international riders both established and up and coming.  The two day cycling race starts outside of Paris in Contres of the Loir et Cher department. There are many races that have Paris in the title, Paris-Nice, Paris-Roubaix and Paris-Tours and although you might think it would start in Paris most do not. Some of these races start close to Paris or at least in the same region, Contres is actual over 200 miles from Paris and in the Centre region.

Laurent Fignon one of the two organizers is a past Tour de France winner wining in 1983 and 1984 but then suffered injuries over the years until 1989 when it came down to the wire at the very last stage where he ended up finishing 2^nd in the closest finish ever losing first by only eight seconds. Fignon continued to race until 1993 before retiring and recently made news again when he announced in the spring of 2009 that he was suffering from intestinal cancer.

It seems a bit of a stretch to call the race Paris-Correze when the start city isn’t even in the same region as Paris. Contres sits in the Loir-et-Cher of the Centre region that sits, guess where, in the center of France. But this is where we are so let’s just go with it. Contres dates back to the Middle Ages and was said to have been formed by cattle farmers out of view of the local rulers but in a perfect position between the provinces of Marche, Poitou and Berry. Floating in and out of prosperity Contres would hit a big roadblock in 1629 when the plague would sweep through and kill a third of the residents.

The first stage follows along and through the Parc Naturel Regional de la Brenne that covers 646 square miles. Located in the Indre department it is split down the center by the Creuse River with the River Anglin running in the southern half. The southern half is known as La Petite Brenne, along with La Brenne it sits in what use to be the provinces of Touraine and Berry.

Along the route sits one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" or the most beautiful villages in France and while I would think pretty much every single village of France could have that distinction but this a real thing. In 1982 a group of people got together to create an official distinction to be given to towns and villages of France. There was a criteria that they must meet, and it wasn’t a swimsuit compitition. Each village had to have more than 2,000 people and have at least two protected sites. It could be artistic, picturesque or historic. Since it began there have been 152 villages named and today the route goes right through one. The medieval village of Saint-Benoît-du-Sault sits on a rocky hill overlooking the Portefeuille River was once within the area known as Gaul and Roman Aquitania. During the 10^th century the Benedictine monks of Sacierges-Saint-Martin moved into the village and set up a priory.  Walls were built around the village to protect the priory and church and in the 15^th century another wall was added to protect the rest of the town. The 10^th Chateau de Brosse just outside of the village was built by the de Brosse family but today all that remains is ruins sitting amongst trees and green grass but still a sight to see.   The cobbled streets with Mideval structure and winding paths make it truly one of the “most beautiful villages of France”

The stage finishes after 128 miles in the town of Saint-Leonard-de-Noblat in the Haute-Vienne department of the Limousin sitting on a hill looking down onto the River Vienne. The town was named after Saint Leonard of Noblac who died in 559. A Frankish noble of the court of Clovis I and converted to Christianity on Christmas 496 by Saint Remigius the Bishop of Reims. He was given the rite to release prisoners that he found worthy of the act and this would how he would become saint. He moved into the Limousin forest and lived a life of a hermit but people were drawn to him and he had many followers.  The Queen of the Franks was with child and Leonard prayed for her and her child to be born safely and a boy. For his help the Queen gave him royal land just outside of Limoges, the village of Noblac. He would go on to set up the abbey in Noblac and the town was soon to follow.  The town of Saint-Leonard-de-Noblat was added to the UNESCO World Heritage Site as part of its connection to the route of Santiago that was the road that pious pilgrims used to cross into Spain. The Romanesque church Saint Leonard de Noblat dates back to the 11^th century and is topped with a graceful bell tower. Within the walls the Saint has his final resting place surrounded by the walls and town that bears his name.  

The first stage started on the edge of the Loire region and and since the Tour de France 2010 didn’t go through there I was excited to do something from the “garden of France” The Loire valley has such mild temperatures and very sandy soil makes for a wonderful place for growing fine vegetables such as asparagus. One of my favorite French cookbooks is Anne Willan’s Country Cooking of France. Not only is it filled with fantastic recipes it is pages of absolutely stunning pictures and text. I made Asperges Et Champignons a la Creme D'Estagon, or Asparagus with Mushrooms in a Tarragon Cream from this amazing book and changed it a tiny bit. It was very fast to make, but having all your ingredients ready to go or Mis en Place, makes it much easier once the sauce is being made. Although the sauce looks rich and heavy, it was very light. It has lemon juice in it as well so it had a wonderful light taste of lemon

Small bunch of fresh tarragon

Salt and pepper

1 pd asparagus, green or white

2 tablespoons butter

5 ounces cremini mushrooms cleaned and thinly sliced

Fresh lemon juice

1 shallot finely chopped

2 tablespoons flour

¼ cup heavy whipping cream

In a medium sauce sauté pan bring water to a boil and add chopped leaves of tarragon and bring to a boil. If your asparagus is of the fat variety use a vegetable peeler to trim down the edges, it will make for a tenderer stalk. If they are the very skinny asparagus, no need to trim. Trim the ends off so they are all the same length (just for the sake of beauty) Drop the asparagus into the boiling water and depending on size cook until tender, anywhere from 4 to 8 minutes. You can test it by piercing the fat end with the tip of a sharp knife; it should go in with some resistance. Remove from the water and set aside, cover with foil to keep warm while the mushrooms are prepared.

In saucepan melt butter, add mushrooms, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Cover and let cook for 4 to 5 minutes until tender. Uncover and add shallots and stir until liquid from the mushrooms is evaporated. Using one cup of the asparagus cooking liquid whisk in flour and then pour into mushrooms and bring to a boil and stir until thickened. Add cream and stir until incorporated and warmed up, add chopped tarragon and check for seasoning. To serve plate the asparagus and pour the mushrooms over and enjoy

Bon Appétit!

 

 

Tour de French Cuisine, the final stage: PARIS

July 25, 2010

Stage 20: Longjumeau to Champs Elysees

Oh dear, the day has come, the day I dread all year long for it is the end of the Tour de France. As the riders get closer and closer to Paris the depression sets in and then the first sight of the Eiffel Tower pushes me over the edge. But it is the sight of that iron lady and then the upcoming Louvre and the golden Joan of Arc greeting the tired riders that hold me together somewhat. As we count down the eight laps of the Champs Elysees it is mostly just pageantry until they get to the last turn and sprint to the finish, it is quite prestigious to win on the Champs Elysees especially for a Frenchman. So sit back and grab a class of champagne this is going to be a good one and there is lots of information for you here to take in and everything you would want to know about the route to the Champs.

The start town of Longjumeau sits in the northern part of the department of the Essonne in the Ile-de-France region and located just 18 miles outside of Paris from Point Zero outside of Notre Dame. An excavation of the area led to the discovery of the remains of a Villa Rustica dating Longjumeau back to Gallo-Roman time and sitting on the Roman road from Lutece. In 1288 the Pont des Templiers was built near the Commandery monastery of Balizy. The Romanesque style bridge is forty yards long with three arches and is one of the oldest bridges in the entire Paris and Ile-de-France region.

Meudon just 5 miles from Paris was the home and final resting place of the French sculptor Francois-Auguste-Rene Rodin. Born November 12, 1840 in Paris and moved to Meudon in 1908 into the Hotel Biron. By this time he was a world renowned artist with his work being exhibited at the World’s Fair and was known for his sculpting of the human body with such realism and character. Some of his most famous work includes The Age of Bronze, The Walking Man, The Kiss and the most recognized The Thinker. On November 17, 1917 Rodin would die and be buried at his home with a cast of The Thinker beside him. It was his request that the statue would be both his headstone and epitaph. He would leave his studio and the casts of his sculptures to the French state and the rights to recreate any of his works. His home was turned into a museum in 1919 and holds the largest collection of Rodin in the world.

Issy-les-Moulineaux is the city literally on the edge of Paris; in fact part of Issy was annexed to Paris in 1860 and created the Javel neighborhood of the 15^th arrondissement. Once the home of the Chateau d’Issy built in 1681 by président à mortier Denis Talon asking the landscape architect to the Kings André Le Nôtre to design the gardens and architect Pierre Bullet to create a small mansion. He would die before it was completed and in 1669 François Louis de Bourbon, Prince of Conti purchased the estate and used Bullet to make some modifications. By his death in 1709 the chateau had been completely renovated and remained in the Conti family. Louis Francois de Bourbon, grandson of Francois lived there for a short time with his wife until she died during childbirth and could never return again. During the French Revolution the ownership fell to the nation and finally during the Commune of 1871 it was set on fire and partially destroyed. It remained in ruins until 1910 when it was finally destroyed, today nothing remains but the French sculptor Auguste Rodin rescued the pediment and columns of the garden façade and placed them at his home in Meudon.

And now they come to Paris and the first sight of the Eiffel Tower. The very final part of the stage has been the same with the finish on the Champs Elysees since the 70’s and the loop around the Jardin Tuileries, Rue de Rivoli and Place de la Concorde. But the entrance in to Paris changes. Last year it came from the eastern side along the Quai’s and past Notre Dame. This year it comes in from the west and below the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty that sits at the end of the Ile des Cygnes.

To pass into Paris it is over the Ile Saint German and River Seine. It is still technically part of Issy-Les-Moulineaux and the department of the Hauts-de-Seine which wraps Paris like the letter C on the west side. The Ile Saint German was once the location of a military camp but was redeveloped in the 1990’s with offices, apartment buildings and parks and even a horse club.

And after they cross the Seine it is a right turn onto the Quai du Point du Jour that turns into the Quai Saint-Exupery. Every French child knows this name and I am sure most American children do as well. Named after author and aviator Antoine de Saint Exupery he wrote the well known children’s book, Le Petit Prince, The Little Prince. My grandparents brought me one back from France when they went the first time which was only a few months after I was born, so I was really meant to be raised French, I think. Saint Exupery was born in Lyon on June 29, 1900 and would become a pilot running mail from Toulouse to Dakar. At the start of the Second World War he joined the Armee de l’Air, French Air Force and flew reconnaissance missions until June 22, 1940, the second Armistice with Germany. He later joined the Free French Forces and while flying a reconnaissance in a P-38 Lightning over the Rhone Valley to track the German movements he disappeared. He had taken off from Corsica in the early evening of July 31, 1944 and never seen again. An unidentifiable body was discovered several days later dressed in a French uniform, but it is still unknown if it was him. In 1998 a fisherman found a silver identity bracelet with the Saint-Exupery’s name on it attached to a piece of fabric thought to be his flight suit. His plane was discovered in 2000 off the coast of Marseille and it was confirmed that it was in fact his plane. The location was just less than 50 miles from where the body was recovered and although not confirmed it is possible it was him. The Little Prince was written in 1942 when he was in living in a penthouse apartment at Central Park South in New York City. Published in 1943 it has since been translated in over 190 languages and selling more than 80 million copies and making it the best selling French language book ever.

Next up is the Quai Louis Bleroit, originally names Quai d’Auteuil but changed to the French aviator and aircraft manufacturer in 1937. Louis Bleroit was born in Cambrai France (stage 4) in 1872. He created headlights for cars after studying engineering at the Ecole Centrale Paris. In 1909 he would make the first flight across the English Channel leaving Les Baraques France and landing in Dover. The 36kilometers would take just over 37 minutes and the exact spot that he landed is marked today with a granite memorial in the shape of his plane.

Just to the right on the River Seine lies the long thin strip known as Ile des Cygnes or Isle of Swans. The manmade island created in 1827 to protect the Port of Grenelle. It is 2,789 feet long and 36 feet wide and the l’Allee des Cygnes, a tree lined walkway runs down the center the entire length. Three bridges cross the Ile des Cygnes, the Pont de Grenelle, Pont de Bir-Hakeim and the Pont Rouelle. Sitting on the western edge is a replica of the Statue of Liberty, the same as the one in the New York harbor. One fifth in size and 72 feet high it is the “little sister” of the lady liberty given to the US from France.  French President Carnot had it installed and dedicated it on July 4, 1889 , three years after the American one and a gift from Parisians people living in the United States to the people of Paris. A plaque on the base is inscribed with July 4, 1776-July 14, 1789 in regards to the American Independence Day and the French Bastille Day. If you have seen the National Treasure 2 movie you would have seen this statue as it is part of the plot. I have to admit I will watch that movie just for the scene in Paris.

The Voie Georges Pompidou is next on our itinerary. Named after the French President Georges Pompidou in 1976 just two years after his death. The Georges Pompidou runs along the Seine off and on all the way out the other side of Paris. But since it is Paris the same street also has different names along the way. Pompidou was the Prime Minister of France from 1962- 1968 and became the 19^th President of the French Republic and Co-Prince of Andorra in June 1969 following Charles de Gaulle. He served the longest tenure of anybody in that role until his death on April 2, 1974.

The Avenue de New York runs in front of the Trocaderro and across from the Eiffel Tower. Originally named the Avenue de Tokyo the name was changed in 1945 after the Second World War when Japan was an ally of the German Nazi’s it was changed to New York in part for the United States that came to liberate France. Running alongside the Seine the Quai de Passy was changed to Avenue du President Kennedy in 1964.  The Avenue de New York goes through the tunnel under the Pont’ de l’Alma, the l’Alma tunnel was the site of a very tragic event on a warm August night in 1997. On top of the tunnel is a flame that resembles the flame of the American Statue of Liberty that was given to Paris by the International Herald Tribune in 1989. After the death of Princess Diana it was turned into an unofficial memorial to the Queen of Hearts.

Onto the Quai des Tuileries which is mostly just a fenced off one way street that travels next to the Jardin des Tuileries and heads toward the Louvre and the Quai du Louvre. Tuilerie means “tile industry” in French and the Quai got its name from the Jardin and the Palais des Tuileries that was once there and built upon the site where tile kilns once stood. Built in 1564 by Catherine de’Medici after the death of her husband Henry II of France, the large long and narrow buildings enclosed three courtyards on a large expanse of land and closed off what is now the Louvre courtyard. It stood until 1871 during the Paris Commune and twelve men were ordered to set fire to the Palais. Using petroleum, liquid tar and turpentine then lit the fire around 7pm on May 23, 1871 and the fire continued to burn for 48 hours completely destroying the Palais des Tuileries. The burnt skeleton of the Palais stood for eleven years before the French National Assembly voted to have it demolished and sold it to a private entrepreneur. It took seven months to finish the demolition and some of the marble and stone was taken to build the Chateau de la Punta in Alata Corisca.

­After Catherine de’Medici began construction on the Palais she also created an Italian style park with fountains, statues, grotto and menagerie. The Jardin consisted of six by eight compartments that had different trees, lawns and flowers that were surrounded by the garden ornaments and statues. Later Henry IV added the Orangery and a silkworm farm as well. In 1664 French landscape architect Andre le Notre added raised terraces, created pools and formal flower beds that are all still there today. Now the Jardin is one of the largest parks in Paris and covers 63 acres and still holds true to the design of Le Notre. His plan of the reflecting pools extending along a central axis from the west became part of the Axe Historique .

The Axe Historique extends from the west just outside of Paris in the business district of La Defense when in 1980’s Francois Mitterrand had a more modern arch built by Danish architect Johann Otto von Spreckelsen. La Grande Arche was dedicated in 1990 and sits atop an elevated plaza over the Tunnel de La Defense. Heading west the Axis goes over the River Seine and the Ile de Puteaux on the Pont de Neuilly through the Place de la Porte Maillot and the edge of the Boise de Boulogne. Further down the Avenue de La Grand Armee is the crowning point of the Charles de Gaulle Etoile where the Arc de Triomphe sits (we will get back to that later), keep heading down the Avenue des Champs Elysees where you will see the Obelisque de Louqsor on the Place de la Concorde, through the Jardin des Tuileries to the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and finally ending at the equestrian statue of Louis XIV just in front of the I.M. Pei Pyramided y Louvre in the Cour Napolean of the Musee du Louvre.

Now we are getting closer and closer to the finish, with a left turn onto the Avenue du General-Lemonnier that is a tunnel that goes under the edge of the Jardin des Tuileries and the Jardin du Carrousel. The Avenue was originally named Avenue Paul Deroulede, named for the French author and politician of the French right-wing. On March 25, 1957 it was changed to Avenue du General-Lemonnier, named after Emile-Rene Lemonnier who was a commanding officer of the 3^rd Brigade of the division of Tonkin in Indochine, now known as Vietnam. In 1945 after a takeover of Manila the Japanese attacked and Lemonnier was captured, he was beheaded on March 10, 1945. Today on the Avenue is a sign that says “The ten-March 1945, Lang Son captured by the enemy, out of ammunition, has twice refused to sign a total capitulation, preferred to be beheaded rather than forfeit the honor will remain in history as a striking example of what is the will of the French character”

Taking a left onto the Rue de Rivoli it is the last street before the riders hit the Avenue des Champs-Elysees. The Rue de Rivoli was commissioned by Napoleon following his victory over the Austrians in the Battle of Rivoli in Italy in 1797. Napoleon wanted a street that would extend from the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries to the Champs Elysees.  First conceived by Napoleon in 1802 it did not begin construction for many years and was only partially completed in 1835. Napoleon died in 1821 before he was able to see any of the completion but the vision was carried on. King Charles X, King Louis-Phillippe and Emperor Napoleon III continued the Rue de Rivoli into the Marais district of the 4^th Arrondissement. Today it is one of the most famous streets in Paris and is lined with Neoclassical apartments and at one time the fanciest shops from the biggest names in fashion.

Just on the corner of the Rue de Rivoli and the Avenue du General-Lemonnier is the public square of Place de Pyramides. Named for Napoleons victory in Egypt in 1798 and the nearby Rue des Pyramides, but the jewel of the square is the amazing gilded statue of Joan of Arc by Emmanuel Fremiet. Created in 1874 the statue stands close to where she was injured by a crossbow arrow into her leg at the Saint-Honore Gate during the attack on the English as they held Paris on September 8, 1429. It was to be one of her last battles before she was captured in May 1430 in Compiegne by the Burgundians and then later sold to the English. After being convicted of heresy she was sentenced to death by burning and on May 30, 1431 she was tied to a pillar in the Vieux-Marche in Rouen. After she had died they moved the coals to expose her body and then burned her body two more times to reduce her to ashes. Her remains were tossed into the River Seine.  Today she is one of the highest regarded heroines in all of French history, as she should be.

In researching this I discovered that the “sister” statue to the Joan of Arc in Paris is right here in my very own Portland, Oregon. It was made from the very same cast as the one in Paris created by Emmanuel Fremiet and like her sister is covered in gold gilding. It was erected in 1924 in honor of the veterans’ of World War I in the Laurelhurst area of Portland. I have driven by it many times and it is located in the center of a traffic round, and can’t believe I never really noticed it before. I see many visits in my future that may be the perfect spot for a French picnic….. Ok, back to Paris. (this photo is the one in Portland)

Just rounding the corner from the Rue de Rivoli and making a wide arc of an entrance onto the Place de la Concorde. The largest public square in Paris and Europe is over 86,000 square meters and sits at the Eastern end of the Champs Elysees and is in line of the Axe Historique. Built in 1755 and designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel and was named Place Louis XV and was home of the equestrian statue of the king. But in 1792 it was torn down, the square was renamed Place de la Revolution and the Guillotine was placed there instead. Set just to the east of where the Obelisk stands today it was on this spot that Louis XVI was beheaded on January 21, 1793 and then 10 months later Marie Antoinette. The Place de la Revolution was the spot of a lot of bloodshed and in the summer of 1794 it was the spot of the “Reign of Terror” where 1,119 people were executed in just one month. The Guillotine was removed in 1795 and the square was renamed the Place de la Concorde for a short period. From 1814 to 1823 it was again named Place Louis XV, in 1830 changed to Place Louis XVI, shortly to Place de la Charte until it was finally changed to Place de la Concorde and remains so still today. Concorde translates to harmony, funny for a place that has seen so much death and bloodshed in its history. So let’s focus on the beautiful part of the Place de la Concorde instead. (Although I can go on for days about Marie Antoinette) As you enter the Place on foot from the Jardin des Tuileries and just past the Musee de L’Orangerie and at the main gate on either side of you are the large equestrian statues Les chevaux de Marly. The winged horses sit atop the gate pillars and were done by Antoine Coysevox in the early 1700’s. At one time they were at Louis XV’s Chateau Marly and then in the mid 18^th century after it was destroyed during the revolution they were brought to the Louvre and exact copies were made that you see today.

The octagon shape of the Place de la Concorde was at one time surrounded by a moat and small stone bridges stretched across the area adjoining the Place to the Tuilleries. On each of the eight sides sat a small stone pavilion used to get down into the ditch and later topped with statues depicting the eight large cities of France. The eight statues were each made by a different artist and represent the great French cities of Bordeaux, Brest, Lille, Lyon, Marseille, Nantes, Rouen and Strasbourg and were installed in 1836 by Jacob Ignaz Hittorf during a redesign of the Place from 1833 to 1846. During the reign of Louis-Phillippe from 1830-1848, the most improvement made to the Place de la Concorde and still holds true today. It was Louis-Phillippe who decided that a statue in the middle of the Place should not have any political ties and decided on a large Obelisk that Mehemet Ali, the Viceroy of Egypt had presented to France in 1831. It took over three years for the Obelisk to arrive in Paris and on October 25, 1836 it was erected in the center of the Place. The Obelisk weighs 230 tons and stretching to the sky over 75 feet and the rose Syene granite obelisk is over 3300 years old and is covered with hieroglyphics that tell the story of the pharaoh Ramses II. 

On either side of the Obelisk are two fountains each designed by Jacque-Ignace Hottorff and were based on a water theme because of their close relation to the Ministry of Navy building that overlooks the Place de la Concorde. With a nod to the great fountains of Rome and specifically the Piazza Navona and Piazza San Pietro, Hittorff patterned their placement on either side of the Obelisk. The statues on the north, Fontaine des Fleuves is devoted to the Rivers with figures that depict the River Rhone and the River Rhine and the riches that can be found there, Harvesting fruit, flowers, vineyards and agriculture. On the South the Fontaine de Mers is dedicated to the Sea and specifically the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Fishing, coral and collecting pearls are all things that can be seen within the statue.

One of the last things in the Place is at the entrance to the Champs Elysees. The second set of equestrian statues sit atop the pedestals that mark the beginning of the most famous boulevard in the world. Known as the Chevaus de Marly as well these were made by Guillaume Coustou and were made between 1743 and 1745. Like the other equestrian statues on the other side these were moved from the Chateau Marly and placed on the Place de la Concorde in 1794. In 1984 they were replaced with copies and the originals today sit in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre museum.

And now we are here, the final stretch of the Tour de France. Every year since 1975 the Tour de France has finished on the Avenue de Champs Elysees, and what could be the most beautiful street in the world.  In France it is known as La plus belle avenue du monde  or “The most beautiful avenue in the world” but I can’t think of the Champs Elysees without hearing the classic song by Joe Dassin released in 1969.  The avenue runs from the Obelisk in the Place de la Concorde to the Place Charles de Gaulle and stretches 2,055 yards. The Champs Elysees was built in 1667 by Andre Le Notre, at the request of Jean-Baptiste Colbert who was the Minister of Finance to Louis XIV at the time. Le Notre was the gardener for Louis XIV who also designed the gardens of Versailles, Tuileries and Fountainbleu and was told to design the area between the Tuileries and the Saint Germain en Laye to open up the space. Colbert wanted to “have an avenue of trees planted between the Tuileries as far as the hill of Challot (today the Place de Gaulle-Etoile)The Champs was property of the Crown until 1792 and in 1828 under Charles X it was handed over to the Ville de Paris. The name comes from Greek mythology, Elysium was a section of the Underworld. The Elysian Fields was the final resting place for the souls for the virtuous and heroic.

One cannot think of the Champs Elysees without the crowning glory at the end of it. Of the iconic elements of Paris, the Arc de Triomphe is near the top of the list. The Eiffel Tower is #1 of course, and it is my list of iconic places so there. The Arc de Triomphe sits in the center of the Place de l’Etolie, on the western most end of the Champs Elysees at the top of the hill of Chaillot.  The Place de l’Etolie  is translated to “Place of Stars” and is the junction where 12 avenues including the Champs Elysees meet and three arrondissements, the 8^th, 17^th & 17^th and was once the boundary of Paris. The current design adopted by Haussman dates back to 1854 with the 120m in diameter circle.  In 1970 the name was changed to Place Charles de Gaulle after the death of the former General and President.

Emperor Napoleon had commissioned the Arc de Triomphe in 1806 to glorify the military victories of the French Grande Armee during the Napoleonic Wars, but Napoleon died before he was able to see the finished icon. Work began on Napoleon’s birthday, August 15, 1806 and took over 30 years to build and finish and was finally completed with the help of King Louis-Phillippe in 1836. It stands 164 feet high, 148 feet long and 73 feet wide and was inspired by Rome’s Arch of Janus.  The East façade depicts the French armies departure to new campaigns above the arch and the thirty shields on the attic bear the name of each of Napoleon’s victories in Europe and Asia. To the left of the arch on the East side is a bas-relief by Seurre the Elder depicting Napoleon’s victory over the Turkish army in 1799. On the right is the bas-relief of General Marceau’s funeral, the General defeated the Austrians in 1795 and was killed the following year while still fighting them. On the lower left side of the arch is the high-relief “Triumph of Napoleon” by JP Cortot and celebrates the Treat of Vienna peace agreement of 1810. On the right of the arch is the Francois Rude’s high-relief “Departure of the Volunteers in 1792” also known as “The Marseillaise” showing the citizens of France leaving to defend the nation.  On the West façade looking toward the La Defense is “The Resistance of 1814” on the left and on the right “The Peace of 1815” both by A Etex. Within the arches are the name of the 150 Imperial and Republican victories and 664 officers

The Arc de Triomphe has seen its fair share of history, beginning with the wedding march of Marie-Louise to Napoleon in 1810 although construction had barely started at that point and a wood and canvas mock up was installed. Napoleon never saw it completed but would finally pass under the arch on December 15, 1840 on his way to his final resting place at the Invalides. Over two million people visited the Arc in 1885 to pay respects to Victor Hugo and the beginning of the funeral procession to the Pantheon. In 1919 it was the site of the Victory parade of the Allied armies through the Arc following the First Word War. It was in 1920 when the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was interred below the arch on Armistice day and the eternal flame was lit, it is remembered with a ceremony every November 11^th. During a visit to Paris in 1961, President Kennedy and Jacqueline Kennedy paid their respects to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. After that horrible day in 1963 Jackie recalled that visit and the eternal flame at the Arc and asked for the same thing to be placed at JFK’s grave at Arlington Cemetery. On November 25, 1963 French President Charles de Gaulle was there to see Jackie light the flame and has remained to this day.

The Tour ends on the Champs Elysees only .2 kilometers from the Arc de Triomphe with the Rue de Presbourg on the left and Rue de Tilsitt and the Rue Arsene Houssaye  on the right. The Rue de Presbourg and the Rue de Tilsitt encircle the Place Charles de Gaulle as a complete circle with the Presbourg on the South and Tilsitt on the North. On the South side of the Champs, the Rue de Presbourg was named after the diplomatic victory of Napoleon “the Peace of Pressburg of 1805”. The Treaty was signed on December 26, 1805 between Austria and France after France defeated the Austrians at Ulm and Austerlitz and the truce on December 4^th.  Both the Presbourg and Tilsitt were officially named by decree on March 2, 1864 and due to its closeness to the Arc de Triomphe both were so aptly named after a “Triomphe” of Napoleon. On the right side of the Champs is the Rue de Tilsitt and the Rue Arsene Houssaye, but first the Rue de Tilsit. The other half of the circle around the circle and was also named after one of Napoleons diplomatic victories. Named after the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807, signed July 7, 1807 between Napoleon I and Tsar Alexander I of Russia on a raft in the middle of the Neman River and a second signed with Prussia on July 9^th and ended the war between Imperial Russia and the French Empire. Well until 1812 when Napoleon crossed the Neman river and invaded Russia.  Just to the right of the Rue de Tilsitt is the Rue Arsene Houssaye named after the French novelist and poet who came to Paris in 1832 and wrote two novels, La Couronne de bluets and La Pecheresse as well as many poems, dramas and satirical letters.  In the triangle between the Rue de Tilsitt and the Rue Arsene Houssaye sits an amazing building with Cartier on the ground level, but it is what is on the 2^nd floor that holds some interest. It was in the Grande apartment that Dodi Fayed owned and lived that Princess Diana would leave from on her way to the Ritz Paris and what would be the last night of her life.

For the final stage I decided to make the classic French dessert, the Paris-Brest. The pastry came along after the  Paris-Brest-Paris bike race started on September 6, 1891 and was 750 miles and would travel from Paris to the city of Brest on the western most tip of Brittany and back to Paris a feat that would take close to 100 hours and around 10 days. Along the route a baker was sitting outside his store when the riders came by and decided he would great a dessert in their honor. The choux paste would be piped into a circle, in the shape of a tire of course and then filled with a praline cream and topped with almonds and more pralines. The race is still run but only every few years, the next time it will run is September 2011 and is the longest running cycling race and the precursor to the Tour de France. So we have a lot to be thankful for, the Tour de France and the rich and tasty dessert. I have wanted to make this one for some time and this was the perfect chance to do it.

For praline

1 cup hazelnuts

1/4 cup sliced almonds (3/4 oz)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

For cream filling

1 cup whole milk

3 large egg yolks

1/3 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup chilled heavy cream

For choux pastry

1 cup water

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 whole large eggs

1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar plus additional for dusting

 

Make praline:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.

Toast hazelnuts in a shallow baking pan in oven until skins split and nuts are golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from oven (leave oven on), then wrap hazelnuts in a kitchen towel and let steam 5 to 10 minutes. Rub hazelnuts in towel to remove loose skins (some skins may not come off), then transfer hazelnuts to a small bowl, discarding skins. While hazelnuts steam, toast almonds in baking pan until golden, 5 to 8 minutes, then add to bowl with hazelnuts. Lightly grease pan and set aside.

Cook sugar in a dry small heavy skillet over moderate heat, swirling skillet, until sugar begins to melt, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, swirling skillet, until sugar is melted into a deep golden caramel, 2 to 3 minutes more. Remove from heat and, working quickly, stir in nuts to coat, then transfer mixture to greased baking pan, spreading slightly. Let stand at room temperature until hardened and cool, about 30 minutes.

Transfer praline to a heavy-duty sealable plastic bag and seal bag, pressing out excess air. Coarsely crush praline in bag using a rolling pin or bottom of a heavy skillet, then transfer three fourths to a food processor and purée until it becomes a smooth, creamy "butter," 3 to 4 minutes. Reserve remaining crushed praline for garnish.

Make cream filling:
Bring milk to a simmer in a 2 1/2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat. While milk heats, whisk together yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a heatproof bowl.

Add hot milk to yolk mixture in a stream, whisking, then transfer mixture to saucepan and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, whisking (mixture will become thick and lumpy). Simmer, whisking constantly, 3 minutes (mixture will become smooth). Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla. Transfer to a clean bowl and chill pastry cream, its surface covered with wax paper, until cold, at least 1 hour.

Beat heavy cream in a bowl with an electric mixer until it just holds stiff peaks. Beat pastry cream in a large bowl with mixer until smooth, then add praline "butter" and beat until incorporated. Fold in whipped cream, one third at a time, gently but thoroughly, then cover surface of hazelnut cream with wax paper and chill until ready to use.

Make choux pastry:
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425°F. Trace a 9-inch circle with a pencil on a 12-inch square of parchment or wax paper, then trace a 5-inch circle inside it. Turn paper over (circles will still be visible) and put on a large baking sheet.

Bring water to a boil with butter, granulated sugar, and salt in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over high heat, then reduce heat to moderate. Add flour all at once and cook, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, until mixture pulls away from side of pan, about 1 minute. Continue to cook and stir vigorously (to dry out mixture) 3 minutes more. Remove pan from heat and cool mixture, stirring occasionally, until warm to the touch, 5 to 10 minutes. Add whole eggs 1 at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition until dough is smooth.

Transfer dough to pastry bag fitted with plain tip and pipe 3 concentric rings to fill space between traced circles on parchment, then pipe 2 more on top to cover seams between bottom rings. Lightly brush pastry with some egg wash, then scatter almonds over pastry and dust with 1 tablespoon confectioners’ sugar.

Bake choux pastry until golden and well puffed, 20 to 25 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 375°F and continue to bake until deep golden and firm to the touch, about 25 minutes more. Immediately prick top of pastry in 8 to 10 places with tip of a small sharp knife (to release steam) and continue to bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes more. Transfer pastry (on parchment) to a rack and cool completely, about 30 minutes.

Halve pastry horizontally with a serrated knife and carefully invert top onto work surface. Remove and discard any wet dough from interior of top and bottom. Transfer hazelnut cream to cleaned and dried pastry bag fitted with star tip and pipe cream decoratively into bottom half of pastry, then carefully reinvert top half over it. Sprinkle top with reserved praline and dust with additional confectioners’ sugar.

So it is now the end of the Tour de France and with that it always leaves me a little sad, I will miss the early morning with Phil & Paul and the all day watching of the Tour and the amazing pictures of France. But the work begins today for the 2011 Tour, the route will be unveiled in Paris in October and on that morning I will get up at 2am to see it live online and then count down the days until the start in Vendee. Thank you for following along with me and make sure you order my book as soon as it is done J

Merci!

Tour de French Cuisine: Stage 19 Bordeaux to Pauillac

July 24, 2010

Stage 19: Bordeaux to Pauillac

Let’s put the blinders on and pretend tomorrow isn’t going to happen and just focus on today and the world capital of wine, Bordeaux and the Bordeaux region. The Tour will pass through the greatest vineyards in the world and some of the most beautiful châteaux’s this side of the Loire Valley. Only Paris has seen the Tour de France more than Bordeaux, this year is the 80^th visit but has not seen the Tour since 2006.

Bordeaux sits on the banks of the River Garonne and was once the largest port in France and dates back 30,000 years. At the Pair-non-Pair caves just outside of Bordeaux at Bourg sur Gironde remains have been unearthed of Neanderthals living in the area. Around 70BC it was ruled by the Romans and became the capital of Roman Aquitaine. In the 5^th century it was attacked by the Vandals, Visigoths and finally the Franks in 498. Bordeaux would come back into power in 1154 when the English took over the city after the marriage of the Duchess Eleanor of Aquitaine to Count Henri Plantagenet who would become King Henry II of England shortly after their marriage. The city would flourish again due to the wine trade and the bustling port. France recaptured Bordeaux in 1452 near the end of the Hundred Years’ War but the English were not so thrilled about it. In October of that year the Earl of Shrewsbury and an army of more than 2,500 men landed on the banks of Bordeaux. The Bordelaise people welcomed the English and ousted the French leadership. In the winter of 1452/1453 Charles VII King of France (no thanks to Joan of Arc) readied his army and by spring they advanced into Bordeaux from three routes at the same time and recaptured Bordeaux for France once and for all.  The Battle of Castillon was the last battle to be fought between the French and the English and the end of the Hundred Years’ War.

It wasn’t until the 18^th century that Bordeaux really came into its own, most of the architecture is from this period and is home to one of the largest 18^th century urban areas in Europe.  The Esplanade des Quinconces was once the site of the Chateau Trompette. The Chateau was built after the Hundred Years’ War under the order of King Charles VII to protect the city from any future English invasions. Around 1650 it was destroyed by the Ormee and then rebuilt again under Louis XIV in 1653 but was later destroyed in 1818.  The Esplanade des Quinconces began construction in 1818 and was completed in 1828. The Esplanade was built with the Esplande des Invalides in Paris as the example and at almost 30 acres it is the largest plaza in Europe. In 1895 the Colonnes des Girondins was added to the Esplanade, a 141 foot column by Achille Dumilatre. Built as a monument to the Republic and Girondins and topped with a statue of liberty.

The Bordeaux region is the largest wine region in France, in area and production. Four times that of Alsace, Burgundy and Beaujolais and twice as much as the Loire and Rhone regions and grows all three types of wine, red, white and sweet wines. As the Tour leaves the city of Bordeaux it heads through the Haut-Medoc Noted as the most concentrated and greatest red wine growing area in the world. The gravelly hills slopping towards the River Gironde is the perfect terroir to grow some of the most famous names in wine in the world.

The town of Blanquefort is the home of an 11^th century chateau ruins said to be haunted. The Chateau of “The Black Prince” Edward of Woodstock, Prince of Wales became his when it was transferred to the most power family in the Aquitaine and he decided to remain there. It continued to pass through many hands over the ages until the Revolution when it became state property and then fell into ruins where it still remains today. It was labeled a historic monument and some excavation has taken place over the years.

The small village of Labarde marks the beginning of the Margaux appellation and the finest wines of the area. The 18^th century Chateau Dauzac is located here and named after Petrus d’Auzac who was given the land from Richard the Lionheart, King of England. Growing mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc and produces a fragrant, soft and excellent wine.

The town of Margaux may be small but its jewel is the Chateau Margaux, arguably one of the most famous names in wine. One of only four vineyards to obtain the Premiur Crus status in 1855 and labeled by Thomas Jefferson as “one of the four vineyards of first quality” The estate dates back to the 12^th century and once legend has Edward III, King of England living here in a castle located on top of a high mound over the water in the 14^th century. Before the Medoc was drained the area would frequently flood so having a castle on high land was a necessity.  The domaine would pass through many hands over the years but it was during the mid 17^th century when the proprietor d’Auledes planted the first vines. It continued to pass through many more owners until in 1977 Chateau Margot was purchased by Andre Mentzelopoulos a Greek, French grocery supermarket owner. He died three years later and passed through family and other ownership. In 2003 his daughter Coinne purchased shares back and runs it to this day. It was her father that brought much of the glory back to the wine, vineyard and chateau and made it what it is today.

Stage 19 finishes in Pauillac and is the first time visit for the Tour de France. A large port on the banks of the River Garonne and home to three huge names in Bordeaux wines, Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Latour, and Château Mouton Rothschild. Above Pauillac the Chateau Mouton Rothschild rises over the vineyards.  Mouton was part of the Jacques de Sequre estate along with Latour and Lafite but was later split around 1750. Owned by Joseph de Brane and remained in the family until his grandson Hector de Brane sold it to Isaac Thuret who in turn sold it to Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild in 1853. Originally called Château Brane-Mouton it was renamed by Nathaniel de Rothschild. Today Mouton Rothschild is still owned by the family by Baronne Philippone de Rothschild. 

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild is still owned by the Rothschild Banking Family of France and dates back to the 13^th century to 1234 when it was the estate of Gomabaud de Lafite. Purchased by the Sequr family along with the 16^th century chateau that still stands today, it was Jacques de Segur that planted the first vines. In August 1868 the Baron James Mayer Rothschild purchased the Chateau and vineyard and it became Chateau Lafite Rothschild.

And finally Chateaus Latour on the opposite side of Pauillac from Lafite but believed to be planted and created at around the same time. In 1670 it was owned by M. de Chavannes a private secretary to Louis XIV and passed to M. de Clauzel in 1678. An heir to the Lafite house Alexandre de Segur married Marie-Therese de Clauzel in 1675 and became the owners of two of the greatest and biggest names in wine in the world. The two houses were run together for more than 80 years until the son of the couple Nicolas-Alexandre de Seugur died and the estate was passed to his daughters and remained in the family until 1962. Now owned by French retail giant Francois Pinault who has also owned Christie’s Auction House, Converse and Vail ski resort. It is rumored that beloved French actors Gérard Depardieu and Carole Bouquet are also part owners.

Steak with Bordelaise Sauce

1 cup red wine
2 sprigs fresh thyme
2 shallots, finely diced
1 bay leaf
6 tbsp. Demi-Glace
4  6-oz. filet mignons
Kosher salt and freshly ground
   black pepper, to taste
2 tbsp. canola oil
1 tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, diced
1 tbsp. finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. chopped fresh thyme

1. Make the sauce: In a 2-qt. saucepan, combine wine, thyme, shallots, and bay leaf. Reduce wine over medium-high heat until almost completely evaporated. If using a gas stove, tip pan to ignite wine; this will aid in evaporation. Discard the thyme and bay leaf; stir in demi-glace. Cover, remove from heat, and set aside.

2. Prepare the filets: Heat oven to 500°. Season filets with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a 10" skillet over high heat. Sear steaks, flipping once, until browned, 4–5 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven; roast until steaks are medium rare, 4–5 minutes. Place steaks on a plate; let rest.

3. Sauce the steak: Return saucepan to medium heat. Whisk in butter. Remove saucepan from heat; stir in parsley and season sauce with salt and pepper. Transfer steaks to cutting board; add juices from plate to pan and stir. Spoon 2 tbsp. sauce onto each of 4 plates. Slice steak into 1⁄4"-thick slices; divide between plates. Sprinkle with rosemary and thyme; drizzle each steak with 1 tbsp. sauce. Serve with baby lettuces, if you like. Yields 3⁄4 cup sauce.

Pommes de Terre et les Oignons Bordeaux

 

2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

6 white boiling onions (about 9 ounces total), thinly sliced

2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, cut into 1/2- to 3/4-inch cubes

2 cups water

1/4 cup crème fraîche or whipping cream

Chopped fresh parsley

Melt 1 tablespoon butter with oil in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and 2 cups water; bring to boil. Cover and simmer until potatoes are tender, stirring occasionally, about 25 minutes. Uncover and simmer until almost all water evaporates, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Add crème fraîche and 1 tablespoon butter. Stir gently to blend, being careful not to break up potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Rewarm over low heat before serving.) Sprinkle with parsley.

And finally for some dessert, the little dark cakes known as Canneles are purely Bordelaise. They are caramelized and have a crisp outside and then the inside is filled with rich lushius pudding like wonderfulness. I tried these once before in a mini silicone mold and they did not turn out. Just this week I found this online on the great website “Girls Guide to Paris” and followed all her instructions and they came out great. Next time I will fill the mold more so get a little bit bigger but the texture was great and taste just like the ones I have had at the local French bakery. Merci Doni! Here is her recipe and notes that have to be followed.

Before you begin, there are a few things you should know:

The batter MUST rest at least a full 24 hours before baking, and I actually had my best results with batter that was two full days old. If you bake prematurely, you will get something resembling a popover.

If the exposed tops begin to darken before the baking time is up (and they will), cover the cakes with a sheet of foil to prevent burning.

Finally, don’t be discouraged if your first batch doesn’t come out. Cannelés can throw even experienced bakers for a loop.

Cannelés

Makes 12.

2 cups (500 ml) whole milk
2 tablespoons (30 g) butter
1 vanilla bean
¾ cup (100 g) all-purpose flour
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons (180 g) sugar
pinch of salt
1 egg
1 egg yolk
3 tablespoons (45 ml) dark rum
A few tablespoons melted butter for the molds (not necessary if you’re using silicon molds)

1. Put the milk and butter into a small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds into the milk, and add the pod too. Gently heat the milk over medium heat until the butter has melted and the milk is steaming hot but not boiling. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.

2. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the egg and yolk and whisk until thoroughly combined. Slowly add the milk to the egg and flour mixture, whisking constantly. Stir in the rum. Let the batter cool to room temperature, then cover it and refrigerate for at least 24 hours (and up to three days) before baking. (Leave the vanilla bean pod in the batter but fish it out before baking, obviously).

3. If you are using metal molds, grease them thoroughly with melted butter, making absolutely certain that every surface is thoroughly coated (I use a finger); then turn them upside down so that any excess butter doesn’t pool at the bottom of the molds. Refrigerate the molds until you’re ready to bake.

4. Put an oven rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 400°F (200°C). When the oven is ready, pour the batter into the molds, to about ½" (1¼ cm) from the top. Put the molds on a baking sheet and place in the oven. After 15 minutes, reduce the heat to 375°F (190°C) and continue baking for another 75–90 minutes, depending on how dark you want the Cannelés to be. If the tops start to get too dark before the baking time is up, cover the cakes with a piece of foil.

5. If you’ve used copper molds, grab each mold with a towel and whack it against the counter a few times to loosen the cake. If the cakes don't slide out when inverted, use a toothpick to loosen them from the molds. If you’ve used silicon, wait about five minutes before unmolding—they should pop right out.

Serving Suggestions

Let the Cannelés cool completely before eating. They will hold for a few days in an airtight container at room temperature, though the crust will lose some crispness. Five minutes in a 400° oven will refresh them. Cannelés can be eaten for breakfast, a snack or dessert, with coffee, tea or a glass of wine.

 

Tomorrow we head to Paris and the Champs Elysees and the 2010 Tour de France will be one for the record books and then I will have to wait the long 3 months until the 2011 route is announced

Tour de French Cuisine Stage 18 Salies-de-Bearn to Bordeaux

July 23, 2010

Stage 18 Salies-de-Bearn to Bordeaux

After four days in the high Pyrenees it is a flat straight stage on the agenda today. This is one for the gutsy sprinters that have survived the mountains for just these moments.  Only one more stage after today separates us from the end of the 2010 Tour de France and the Champs Elysees. I can barely write those words, be strong, be strong! A stage like todays into Bordeaux won’t do much to the overall standings of the top finishers, but they do need to be aware to not lose any time. Saturday will be the Individual Time Trial, the race against the clock will be the final test. Andy Schleck isn’t as good at the TT’s but Contador could make a mistake, it will be one to watch.

The starting town of Salies-de-Bearn, has seen the Tour de France only once before, in 1939.  Known as the Salt City, it dates back to the Middle Ages and sitting on a geological salt water source that contains ten times the amount of salt as there normally is in the nearby Atlantic Ocean.  The great legend of the town dates back to the 17^th century when some local boar hunters wounded a boar that was able to run off into a nearby swamp where he would meet his end. After a few days the hunters found him and was amazed at how preserved his carcass was and realized the boar was immersed in very salty water.  Finding salt during these times was like finding a diamond mind. You’ve heard the phrase “worth one’s salt” before, during Roman times it is said that solders were paid in salt and it is also the basis of the word salary. The town was quickly populated and a group of local dignitaries set up a group known as the Salty Fountain Neighbors that own and manage the salt waters and local thermal baths and still do so to this day.

If you watched the Tour today you will notice that a lot of the 123 miles passed through the forest. Known as La forêt des Landes stretches out through three departments, Landes, Gironde and Lot et Garonne. The majority of the trees are tall pines that began to be planted in the 18^th century to help stop the erosion caused by the marshes and moving sand dunes. On December 26 & 27, 1999 two cyclones named Lothar and Martin blew through Europe and France with winds up to 90miles per hour and destroyed a large number of the trees in the forest. On January 24, 2009 with the wounds of Lothar and Martin still so fresh, cyclone Klaus raged through at 100miles per hour and destroyed the trees again.

Sabres is the village within the forest and until the 19^th century was sitting atop the moving dunes until they were stabilized by the planting of the pines. One of the few villages that dates before the trees were planted is home to the Eco-Musee de Marqueze. The open aired museum shows what it was like to live in the area in the 19^th century with examples of the traditional buildings, bread making and the shepherds on their stilts and the stilt making. The shepherds would stand on the stilts in the field so they can watch over their flock on the large vast of land, now covered with pine trees.

The stage finishes in Bordeaux but let’s save that for tomorrow when the Time Trial starts in Bordeaux and goes past the most famous names in wine, in the world.

Although Bordeaux is known for its wine, it does not have its own cuisine like Burgundy does. Burgundy may have the most popular French cuisine alongside Provence but Bordeaux is lumped into the Gastronomy of the Southwest. With the location near the ocean the Gascons have discovered a liking of the anchovy and with lamb and garlic it is known as the agent de marriage. This recipe for Lamb or Gigot as it is known in France has very few ingredients as you can see but is very flavorful and the anchovies give it an extra zest of amazing flavor. One pound of garlic may seem like you are trying to fend of vampires but it will cook down and is not overpower full at all.

La Gasconnade Gigot

1 leg lamb 4 to 5 pounds

12 anchovy fillets

1 lb. Garlic

¾ cup beef bouillon

Wash off the lamb, dry and cut little slits all over the top. Slice 5 or 6 cloves of garlic into thin pieces and slide them into the slits of the lamb. If your lamb is tied at all, cut off and discard. Lay the anchovies fillets across the top of the roast. During the cooking they will melt over the meat and give it the same effect as if it were roasted revolving on a spit. Cook the lamb in a pre-heated oven, 450 F for 20 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350 F. Allow to cook for 15 minutes per pound from start to finish. While the lamb is cooking, peel the rest of the garlic and blanch in boiling water until the cloves are almost cooking, then throw them into cold water for 20 seconds and drain. Heat the bouillon in a saucepan, add any pan juices and the garlic, and reduce the sauce until it is nearly a puree. Serve as a garnish to the gigot.

What goes better with a lovely roast then some potatoes and since I have loads of duck fat lying around from the Confit it was an easy choice. Les Pommes an l’Echirlete or Potatoes in goose fat is a very traditional recipe of the Dordogne.

Les Pommes an l’Echirlete

2 pounds small new potatoes or Yukon golds

2 ½ cups chicken broth

2 cloves of garlic chopped

3 tablespoons duck fat

Salt and pepper

Peler les pommes de terre, et les couper en cubes de trois centimètres de côté environ.Peel the potatoes and slice in half or quarters depending on the size, they should be about the size of an unshelled walnut.  Parboil potatoes in a pan with chicken broth and garlic cloves until just tender about 20 minutes.

Bien égoutter les pommes de terre, vider l'eau, faire fondre dans la sauteuse la graisse de canard (en récupérant par exemple celle d'un confit), et y faire dorer les pommes de terre.In a large skillet heat the duck fat until melted and add the potatoes and garlic, gently sauté turning from time to time until nicely browned all over this may take up to 30 minutes, don’t turn the heat to high or they will burn. Season with salt and pepper and serve.

 Bon Appétit!

Tour de French Cuisine, stage 17 Pau to Col du Tourmalet

July 22, 2010

Stage 17 Pau to Col du Tourmalet

Since October 14, 2009 when the official 2010 route was announced it has been all about the Tourmalet, Pyrenees and the 100^th anniversary of it being a part of the Tour de France. The first Tour took place in 1903 but from 1915 to 1918 and again from1940 to 1946 the years that fell during the First and Second World War the Tour was halted and did not run. But let’s back up a minute and see how the whole thing started. Newspaper editor Henri Desgrange of Le Auto-Velo newspaper needed an idea to boost circulation and it was over lunch with Victor Goddet their accountant and journalist Geo Lefevre at the Zimmer Madrid restaurant on the Boulevard Montmartre that Geo came up with an idea. On November 20, 1902 his idea was “What about a Tour de France in several stages with rest days”

On January 19, 1903 the front page of the now named L’Auto headline said “the Tour de France, the greatest cycle race in the world” and printed on yellow paper. The first race in 1903 was from July 1^st to July 18^th and was only 6 stages and was 1,508 miles. The route was: July 1^st: Paris-Lyon, July 5^th: Lyon to Marseille, July 8: Marseille to Toulouse, July 12^th: Toulouse to Bordeaux, July 13^th Bordeaux to Nantes and finally July 18^th: Nantes to Paris. It started with 59 riders but only 20 or so riders would finish in Paris. Maurice Garin a friend of Henri Desgrange would go on to win the first Tour de France with a finishing time of 94 hours 33 minutes and 14 seconds. He would go on to win the 1904 Tour as well but would be stripped of the title for cheating. The exact reason is lost in time but at that time fans would topple trees, throw things and attack riders as well as other riders would puncture tires and poison fellow riders. He was also under suspicion of taking a train to one of the finish towns as well.

The 1910 Tour is what the organizers are celebrating this year; it was the first year that Pyrenees would be included even before the addition of the Alps. The three previous tour routes were very similar and the architect of the route, Adolphe Steines decided they should include the Pyrenees for 1910. Henri Desgrange at first was very reluctant but decided to send Steines to the southern mountain range for some recon and to see if the mountains were even passable. In late January 1910 he set off and took a car up the Tourmalet, greeted by snow the car could not get through any farther so he took off on foot. Hiking through the night and falling into a ravine where he would remain until a search party located him and pulled him out. The following day he sent a message onto Desgrange “Have crossed the Tourmalet on foot, road passable to vehicle, no snow” Not exactly a truthful and accurate description but it was announced that the Pyrenees would be included in the 1910 Tour de France. On July 10, 1910 the Peloton would take off into the uncharted territory of the Tourmalet. Octava Lapize of France would reach the summit of the Tourmalet first with fellow countryman Gustave Garrigou close behind and the only one that would make it to the top staying on his bike the entire climb. It wasn’t over yet, they still had the Col d’Aubisque, Soulor, Tortes. Octavia Lapize had to walk and carry his bike at one point and Gustave Garrigou fell and at the end Lapize yelled out to the organizers “You’re assassins, all of you! You can’t ask such things of mere mortals. I’ve had enough!”

Things are much different today than they were in 1910. For one thing the bikes have more than the one gear then they had back then and the riders do not have to carry the extra tire tubes on their back. But one thing remains the same one hundred years later, the excitement and action that happens in these high southern peeks is always a must see. Because of the success with the Pyrenees, in 1911 the Alps would be added.

They route for today is almost the same as it was on stage 16, just the opposite direction and ending at the summit of the Tourmalet.  But it will start in the city of Pau, one of the loveliest towns on the edge of the Pyrenees. Deep in French aristocratic history the Chateau de Pau located in the center of the city at the end of the Pont Nemours and dates back to the 14^th century in its current form. The Renaissance style started by Gaston Phoebus when he began the construction of a wall around the city and the foundation of the Chateau was laid. In 1512 the court of Navarre altered the chateau and became the residence of Henri d’Albret and Margauerite de Navarre.  In 1533 their daughter Jeanne d’Albert was pregnant with a son with her husband Antoine de Bourbon, Duke of Vendome, head of the house of Bourbon. Her son would be the heir to the crown and Jeanne d’Albert felt it important that her son be born in Pau, the capital of the Bearn region. She made it to Pau on December 3, 1533 and ten days later gave birth to the future King of France Henry IV. The famous legend says that upon his birth his grandfather Henri II wanted his lips “rubbed with a clove of garlic and then moistened with the local Jurancon wine to make sure he started out life as a proper Gascon”  After he was born and rubbed with garlic a cradle could not be found, so he was laid into a large tortoise shell which he seemed to take quite a liking to.  Later during the Revolutionary war a local Gascon saved the shell by replacing it with another one and hiding the original.  Today the original can be seen within the museum along with a banner with the royal arms of France and Navarre and the helmet of Henry IV.

Louis XIII stayed in the Chateau during the conquest of Bearn and took most of the furnishing in the Chateau with him back to Paris. Marie Antoinette would spend time at the Chateau in the summers and created a small garden. It would serve as a royal prison for many years until Louis-Philipe began restoration in the 1830’s and continued through Napoleon III who liked to visit from Paris at the height of the resorts in the area. Today the Chateau is a national museum and piece of its history and has been painstakingly restored to appear as it did so long ago with period furnishing, tapestries and statues.

If there is one thing the Southwest of France is known for and used as just about every image of the place it is duck. Either as the luxurious Foie Gras or Confit it should be added to the flag of the area. For Stage 14 I made Cassoulet and for that Confit d’Oie. It was the first time I made it and it was very simple and took very little active time, mostly just putting it together and letting it rest in the refrigerator and then very slowly cooked in the oven. It was at the least, out of this world, the flavor is so rich and delicate. There are many ways to serve the Confit but one of the simplest and preferred is on a bed of greens with light vinaigrette. I made this very simple meal and I may need an intervention to keep me from licking the plate. This is one of the best French vinaigrettes, make the entire batch and it keeps in the refrigerator for days and is one of those things you should never by at the store since it is so simple and gratifying.

 French Vinaigrette

 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

 1 teaspoon minced fresh garlic

 3 tablespoons champagne vinegar

 Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

 1/2 cup good olive oil

 In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, garlic, vinegar, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2

teaspoon pepper. While whisking, slowly add the olive oil until the vinaigrette is emulsified.

 Place the salad greens in a medium bowl and add enough dressing to moisten.  Sprinkle with  a little extra salt and pepper, if desired, and serve immediately.

 Confit of Duck

Confit is a French cooking term that means “cooking in its own fat and preserved completely immersed in the same fat to keep it from coming into contact with the air”  The duck is first placed in a flat dish on a bed of salt, garlic, shallots and thyme and covered for up to two days in the refrigerator untouched. After that any remaining salt it brushed off and in a heavy Le Creuset casserole large enough for the duck to lay in a single layer covered with melted rendered duck fat and slow cooked up to 3 hours in a 225 degree oven or until the meat pulls away from the bones easily.  There is a lot of time that goes into it but very little active time. After it is cooked it can be kept in the refrigerator immersed in its own duck fat for several weeks.

The ingredients needed are:

4 tablespoons salt

5 garlic cloves, smashed

1 shallot peeled and diced

6 sprigs of thyme

Coarsely ground black pepper

4 duck legs and thighs

4 cups of rendered duck fat (can be found at whole foods or ethnic markets)

Toss lettuce with a small amount of vinaigrette, you can add more later. Top with a Duck leg and enjoy. Serve with slices of French baguette!

Bon Appétit!

roasted asparagus with prosciutto and poached egg

I saw a picture earlier today of this dish and decided I needed to recreate it for dinner tonight. Roasted asparagus is one of my very favorite foods and pair that with a poached egg, prosciutto and shaved gruyere... how can you go wrong?

To start you need to roast the asparagus, preheat the oven to 450. I like the shave the tough ends of the asparagus a little to make them a little tender. On a sheet pan place the asparagus onto a bed of 15 to 20 springs of fresh thyme and then toss with a tablespoon of olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt. Place in oven for 10 to 12 minutes until lightly roasted.

Poaching eggs is just about one of the easiest things to do but some find that it can be intimidating. This is one of those things that once you get it, you never forget. Bring a saute pan filled with 1 to 2 inches of water to a light boil, add a tablespoon of vinegar (don't forget this part it's the key to the whole thing) While the water comes to a boil in individual teacups or ramekin crack each egg. When the water is ready holding the cup very close to the water, slowly pour the egg in. After about 20 seconds with a slotted spoon very carefully start to fold the whites over the yolk in the water. You just want it to envelope the yolk. After 2 to 3 minutes remove the egg with the slotted spoon onto a stack of paper towels or even better a heal of bread to soak up the water.

To plate: Place the asparagus down on the plate, top with the prosciutto and then place the poached eggs into the bed of prosciutto.  Add a few shavings of gruyere and serve with some sourdough toast points.

A fast and easy dinner or would also be great for a Sunday brunch.

Bon Appetit!

roasted asparagus with prosciutto and poached egg

I saw a picture earlier today of this dish and decided I needed to recreate it for dinner tonight. Roasted asparagus is one of my very favorite foods and pair that with a poached egg, prosciutto and shaved gruyere... how can you go wrong?

To start you need to roast the asparagus, preheat the oven to 450. I like the shave the tough ends of the asparagus a little to make them a little tender. On a sheet pan place the asparagus onto a bed of 15 to 20 springs of fresh thyme and then toss with a tablespoon of olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt. Place in oven for 10 to 12 minutes until lightly roasted.

Poaching eggs is just about one of the easiest things to do but some find that it can be intimidating. This is one of those things that once you get it, you never forget. Bring a saute pan filled with 1 to 2 inches of water to a light boil, add a tablespoon of vinegar (don't forget this part it's the key to the whole thing) While the water comes to a boil in individual teacups or ramekin crack each egg. When the water is ready holding the cup very close to the water, slowly pour the egg in. After about 20 seconds with a slotted spoon very carefully start to fold the whites over the yolk in the water. You just want it to envelope the yolk. After 2 to 3 minutes remove the egg with the slotted spoon onto a stack of paper towels or even better a heal of bread to soak up the water.

To plate: Place the asparagus down on the plate, top with the prosciutto and then place the poached eggs into the bed of prosciutto.  Add a few shavings of gruyere and serve with some sourdough toast points.

A fast and easy dinner or would also be great for a Sunday brunch.

Bon Appetit!

Salmon season

It's Copper River Salmon season and if you love Salmon, there is NOTHING BETTER... it melts in your mouth and has a wonderful silky buttery taste, perfect on its own, but this is one of my favorite ways to have salmon any time of the year

 

You need to make it when you have some time, you can take a shortcut with the risotto but the tomatoes take some time, and they are well worth it.

I start by roasting the tomatoes in a oven at 350 degrees for at least 1 hour. But first you cut the tomatoes in half and core them and scoop out the seeds. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and minced garlic, drizzle a little olive oil and into the oven.

For the risotto I usually make a risotto or if in a hurry you can make a lovely wild rice mix. Martha has some great recipes on-line, I really like the Parmesan Risotto, but again, anything will work with this.

For the Salmon, cut the salmon up into individual portions and pat dry with a paper towel. Then salt and pepper and place into a hot pan with some canola oil, it only needs a few minutes per side and then you are set. It will create a great crust on the outside and delicate and wonderful inside.

Plate up like in my picture above, it is a easy one, any always gets rave reviews!

Bon Apetit!

We wait for it all year....

There are a few things I look forward to every year, and most of them are centered around found I must admit. One of my very favorite things all year is when the Copper River Salmon is available from our neighbors to the north in Alaska. Located in the south central part of Alaska and running almost 300 miles and ending into the Gulf of Alaska. The salmon swim in this pristine waters with strong rapids and then because of their habitat they develop and store healthy oils and body fat, this makes the salmon some of the richest and tastiest in the world.  Not only is it tasty but it is good for you as well, the omega 3 fatty oils which are recommended by the American Heart Association. And not only that but Salmon is great for those with Migraines, the magnesium in the salmon helps migrainee sufferers and when I know a migraine is coming I always make salmon. 

 

When we get the Northwest delicacy in late spring every year the grocery store starts to hang up signs to tell us that it is on it's way. When it first arrives it can be up to $24.99 a pound, but if you wait a few days the price starts to drop. It is only here for 3 or 4 weeks so you have to get as much as you can when it is here. I normally buy a bunch when it is at a good price and pack it into the freezer...... but first I had to make some great treats with it. The deep coral color of the salmon is amazing and you know you are getting something good!

There is nothing better to make with fresh wild Copper River Salmon then Lax, it showcases the flavors perfectly and you are getting it as close to pristine as you can get with out making it into sushi. Salmon Lax is one of those many things I talk about that is better homemade and so very easy. About 3 minutes of work and then wait 36 hours and there you are, slap it on a bagel and it is perfect!

 

One of my other favorite things and now something I make any chance I can is Salmon Rillettes, Rillettes are a classic French dish but mostly made with Pork, it is the process of including salted and cured Pork that is then mixed with fat that makes a rich and delicious spread. I found this recipe a year ago and have made it many times. You do need to make it a bit ahead of time because it benefits from sitting in the fridge so the flavors can meld together. This recipe calls for smoked salmon and steamed salmon, I used Copper River for the steamed and then butter and olive oil. Toss in some chives and a bit of spice and then wait 24 hours. But make sure you bring it to room temperature before you dig in, it is better when the butter softens back up. When John came home today to see it out and finally allowed to touch it he was very happy.   

Hopefully by the time the week is over I won't have mercury poisoning though....